Wanna see what's inside a POS Milwaukee drill chuck?

[Willy]

I just went out to the shop and opened the box of a brand spanking new Makita 18v drill model 482. I took it out of the box popped in a 4ah fully charged battery and proceeded to try to take the chuck off by first taking out the left handed screw, putting in a Torx bit into the inside of the chuck. When the screw is out there is a Torx hole in the bottom of the chuck. Then I used my battery powered 1/2" impact to try to spin off the chuck. No joy. Then I clamped the Torx bit in my bench vise and tried to use the reverse on the drill to unscrew the chuck. No luck also. So I have to tell MattiJ I am sorry. It did work on the one I bought 10 years ago. Then I preceded to see if the factory mounted chuck was one of the locking chucks that you click backwards one click. It is. Then I thought I would test to see if there is a difference in how it holds. I drilled a few 14mm holes in some steel square tubing 5mm thick wall. Mounted a 16mm tap in the drill and tried to tap the holes. The tap would spin in the chuck after I had full engagement with the tap. Then I did the one click back locking thing and it tapped every time with no issues. Then I tried to film the procedure but trying to tap by only holding with one hand while holding my cell phone with the other did not work. I couldn't hold the drill one handed to tap. It got twisted and catywonkers in the hole. Finally I propped my phone and did my last hole with the chuck locked and it worked fine. No slippage. I uploaded the video of me using two hands on the drill.

https://youtu.be/BWy5SjmruTE

Good summary of my experience as well BF and the the video of the 16mm tap demonstrates some serious holding power.
I've mentioned this to acquaintances in the past and have received a lot of flack and disbelief over it much as I have after mentioning it here back in post #31 but for those with the proper chuck this has been helpful as your testimony bares out.
My only qualm with the locking feature is that it is not mentioned in the instructions on tools so equipped????

All I can offer is to try it back to back much as you did in order to see what difference (if any) it makes.

[psomero]

I have one of those $40 Rohm amazon specials on a dewalt drill motor at work. It is substantially better than the stock POS. I also have one on a Milwaukee at home.

I need to put a keyed chuck on one so I can power tap with zero chance of loosening.

[Black Forest]

I didn't know about turning the chuck ring back one click to lock it until you all brought it up on here a few days ago. Today my horse shoers are here shoeing a bunch of horses. There are three of them here today. One needed to drill the heels of a shoe to add grips. He has a drill motor mounted in a small drill press stand. I watched him mount the drill in the chuck and just hand tighten it the same as I have always done it. He didn't click it back one click.....so me being the smart ass that I am I called him on it! The normal bull**** as in, "Man o man I thought you Germans prided yourself on using tools correctly.!!!!! Then I showed him the one click back locking thing and they all looked amazed and full of wonder. "Jeezh man it must be embarrassing for you for an American to show you how to use a drill correctly. I thought everyone that used a drill for more than five minutes in their life knew this." Then I came in the house to eat lunch. Today is a good day! I spend about 2 thousand Euros a month with them so I wanted to cause them a little pain instead of me always getting it in the wallet. As I said today is a good day.

[Black Forest]

482Z could be interesting as it is one of the problematic models I have run into lately. (both 482 and 484 needed angle grinder surgery)
And yes, I removed the damn left-handed screw inside the chuck. Have removed two dozen chucks before without much drama.

I just went out to the shop and opened the box of a brand spanking new Makita 18v drill model 482. I took it out of the box popped in a 4ah fully charged battery and proceeded to try to take the chuck off by first taking out the left handed screw, putting in a Torx bit into the inside of the chuck. When the screw is out there is a Torx hole in the bottom of the chuck. Then I used my battery powered 1/2" impact to try to spin off the chuck. No joy. Then I clamped the Torx bit in my bench vise and tried to use the reverse on the drill to unscrew the chuck. No luck also. So I have to tell MattiJ I am sorry. It did work on the one I bought 10 years ago. Then I preceded to see if the factory mounted chuck was one of the locking chucks that you click backwards one click. It is. Then I thought I would test to see if there is a difference in how it holds. I drilled a few 14mm holes in some steel square tubing 5mm thick wall. Mounted a 16mm tap in the drill and tried to tap the holes. The tap would spin in the chuck after I had full engagement with the tap. Then I did the one click back locking thing and it tapped every time with no issues. Then I tried to film the procedure but trying to tap by only holding with one hand while holding my cell phone with the other did not work. I couldn't hold the drill one handed to tap. It got twisted and catywonkers in the hole. Finally I propped my phone and did my last hole with the chuck locked and it worked fine. No slippage. I uploaded the video of me using two hands on the drill.

https://youtu.be/BWy5SjmruTE

[A.K. Boomer]

It does kinda surprise me some that BF got his chuck free that way, chucks are not only up against the same forces when drilling and stalling them out some --- but think of the times your in high gear doing something and the massive bit or whatever your using stalls out in a split second and all the motors geared momentum gangs up on the planetary system and then transfers it to the chuck threads...

[MattiJ]

I just dismantled my Makita drill to replace the bearings. The chuck had some wobble. I also replaced my original chuck with the locking Röhm chuck. All I did was chuck up some hex stock in the original chuck and clamp that in the bench vise. Put the drill in reverse and the chuck came right off easy peasy! You Scandovians should stay away from complicated tools! I have a brand new Makita 482Z drill that I will do the same. I will make a video of how I do it. Maybe it won't work this time so you can feel better.

482Z could be interesting as it is one of the problematic models I have run into lately. (both 482 and 484 needed angle grinder surgery)
And yes, I removed the damn left-handed screw inside the chuck. Have removed two dozen chucks before without much drama.

[A.K. Boomer]

I just dismantled my Makita drill to replace the bearings. The chuck had some wobble. I also replaced my original chuck with the locking Röhm chuck. All I did was chuck up some hex stock in the original chuck and clamp that in the bench vise. Put the drill in reverse and the chuck came right off easy peasy! You Scandovians should stay away from complicated tools! I have a brand new Makita 482Z drill that I will do the same. I will make a video of how I do it. Maybe it won't work this time so you can feel better.

I like it! something to try before anything else anyways (low gear of course and hang on and gun it)

[Black Forest]

Did I forget to mention impact wrench?
It's not like my first rodeo with removing drill chucks, recent Makitas have been just downright nasty!
(Makita dealer said that he can't replace chucks either without breaking the drill..)

Did you remove the lefthand thread bolt on the inside of the chuck?

[Black Forest]

Oh the locking ring on the Röhm is not a clutch ratcheting thingy. It is to give just a little more grab to whatever is in the chuck and to stop it from loosening when in reverse. I use mine all the time for tapping. If I don't give the locking ring a twist it won't hold the taps. I have one of these chucks on a morse taper 2 shank that I use in my lathe and magnetic drill.

[Black Forest]

Dang --- tightening from usage ? and years of it?

I think at that point I would have disassembled the drill to see if I could clamp the internal "business end" into the vise using some UHMW grips and then go get the get it gun....

I just dismantled my Makita drill to replace the bearings. The chuck had some wobble. I also replaced my original chuck with the locking Röhm chuck. All I did was chuck up some hex stock in the original chuck and clamp that in the bench vise. Put the drill in reverse and the chuck came right off easy peasy! You Scandovians should stay away from complicated tools! I have a brand new Makita 482Z drill that I will do the same. I will make a video of how I do it. Maybe it won't work this time so you can feel better.

[A.K. Boomer]

Spindle lock on my Makita sounded like rock crusher and started to spin along..

Dang --- tightening from usage ? and years of it?

I think at that point I would have disassembled the drill to see if I could clamp the internal "business end" into the vise using some UHMW grips and then go get the get it gun....

[MattiJ]

Wonder how your transmission liked it lol time will tell.

Spindle lock on my Makita sounded like rock crusher and started to spin along..

[MattiJ]

1/2" air impact with large hex socket. Works like a charm

Did I forget to mention impact wrench?
It's not like my first rodeo with removing drill chucks, recent Makitas have been just downright nasty!
(Makita dealer said that he can't replace chucks either without breaking the drill..)

[A.K. Boomer]

1/2" air impact with large hex socket. Works like a charm

Wonder how your transmission liked it lol time will tell.

[vectorwarbirds]

Damn I hate recent Makita’s!
only way to remove the chuck is to chop it to pieces.

1/2" air impact with large hex socket. Works like a charm