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  • Gear Hub Bushing?

    A Kieth Rucker project for sure.

    I'd like to fit this 1.250" ID gear on this 1.000" shaft. Would a split bushing & key be the way to go or something more involved?

    MH Davidson triplex orchard sprayer pump, don't know the production date but the last patent date is 1907.

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  • #2
    Depends on how much it's going to be used and how much load is involved. If you're just putting
    it together for display/demonstration purposes you might get away with a simple split bushing. There's
    lots of meat in that hub so the ideal way to adapt it is to bore it out for a larger sleeve,,,
    Keith
    __________________________
    Just one project too many--that's what finally got him...

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    • #3
      I do intend to run this and pump water, though not developing much pressure. The hub is 2 5/16" OD. How thick should the sleeve walls be? There's room to make a sleeve with a flange that can be screwed to the hub face if needed. Will run @ 30 rpm.



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      • #4
        A bulletproof method would be boring the hub to accept a taper lock sleeve.

        This assumes a lathe big enough to swing the pulley. Split sleeve would be easier especially with small lathe, and probably good enough.

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        • #5
          For just moving water, not really pumping against pressure, it would probably be fine. If you had to transmit serious power, it might be good to investigate some form of bushing that would attach to the gear, and be driven directly by the key.
          CNC machines only go through the motions

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          • #6
            Considering the keyways seem to be the same width, I would machine a split sleeve with a tight slip fit and then make a proper key to drive with. With those type of piston pumps you will never have a problem. The three cylinder pumps have an almost constant load on the drive system so very little impact or vibration as it works. Wonderful pumps that will outlast all of us if kept properly greased....
            Robin

            Happily working on my second million Gave up on the first

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            • #7
              Originally posted by SVS View Post
              ..A bulletproof method would be boring the hub to accept a taper lock sleeve...
              Yeah, I thought about that, too but, like you said, the job could only be done on a lathe. A straight
              bore can be done on a milling machine. Trickiest part of using a split sleeve is getting it good and
              tight while still being able to assemble the parts. I'd make the sleeve with a shoulder on one side
              so that when you press or drive it on the shaft it stays in place...

              Keith
              __________________________
              Just one project too many--that's what finally got him...

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              • #8
                Originally posted by LKeithR View Post
                I'd make the sleeve with a shoulder on one side
                so that when you press or drive it on the shaft it stays in place...
                Im with Keith on this one. A shoulder is a nice feature for this and many bushings. I make my bushings with a lip. Why not?

                Not just the engine bushings I deal with. I have made suspension bushings that really on the "lip" to locate the bearing.

                I like a flat bushings, and a bushing with a side lip. JR




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                • #9
                  I think a split sleeve with loctite on the shaft only would be OK. I've done similar jobs in the past that held up just fine. Keep everything the same size it is now.
                  25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                  • #10
                    If I was going to go with the split sleeve I would start out with a full sleeve and the cut key way out once it’s assembled.

                    I would either Loctite (retaining compound) it in, TIG weld it in if gear material allows, or possibly silver solder it in place.

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                    • #11
                      Along that line, there is no law that says the sleeve cannot be a full unsplit sleeve, with a cutout in it for a key. I've done that, and it worked better than a split sleeve.
                      CNC machines only go through the motions

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                      • #12
                        I've used these in the past on gas engines to adapt the shaft to an oddball pulley. Never had any issues.
                        It would be easy to make one.

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                        Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                        Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                        Location: British Columbia

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                        • #13
                          If that was a job I was tasked with, I'd make a full sleeve, probably with a shoulder, and solder it into the hub. Then I'd split it with a hacksaw, and hand file the keyway into the existing one. Not saying that's the best way, it's just how I'd tackle it. I've made a few sleeves for custom gahzintas before but never one that big. Smallest I've made was a 3mm into a 1/8", that was fun .

                          I do like the full sleeve above. That also looks like a great viable solution.

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                          • #14
                            Having grown up on a farm that was surrounded by other farms which are all populated by...

                            yeah, farmers...

                            the appropriate way to do that is to cut a strip of 1/8th sheet stock
                            (preferably out of an old car you've parked out behind the silage pit)
                            form it into a cylinder on your anvil
                            and drive it home with a mallet.

                            t
                            farmered it up good.
                            rusting in Seattle

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                            • #15
                              When I saw the dimensions, I immediately thought of exactly the solution so perfectly illustrated by Willy. You might have to make a double width key if the keyways are not the same, but that is easy.

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