Gear Hub Bushing?

[Rich Carlstedt]

Do a split bushing, but since it is old equipment, make a hammer key . It will look perfect !
The Hammer key works differently than normal keys,
Instead of restricting rotary location movement as normal keys do, it also loads the parts "vertically" ( when keyway is on top)
This load stiffens the engagement and relieves rotary loads
The hammer key should have a slight taper and wedge the top and bottom of the keyways which will lock in the shaft/wheel
The Hammer key is also known as a Gib-head key by some because of the small taper

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/36/08...43fa8100e2.jpg

Rich

Edit
The key is so tight , that a pry bar is used between the key head and the wheel to remove the components

[LKeithR]

I've used these in the past on gas engines to adapt the shaft to an oddball pulley. Never had any issues.
It would be easy to make one.

Now that is the way to do it. I've been doing this kind of work for a long time and I've never
thought about making something like that. Neat idea, would have saved my bacon a couple
times in the past. I'd consider making the slot just a bit shorter so you leave more material
on the ends of the sleeve. And I would still consider making the sleeve with a shoulder on
one end...

[J Tiers]

Do a split bushing, but since it is old equipment, make a hammer key . It will look perfect !
................................................

Rich

Edit
The key is so tight , that a pry bar is used between the key head and the wheel to remove the components

Pry bar, or dynamite..... some of those are so tight on old hit and miss engines that they refuse to come out at all. Had one on an old Columbian blacksmith vise (actually a double key) and thaat one fought pretty hard as well, but I did get that one out so I could re-adjust the vise position.

DO NOT try hammering on the small end.... that will not go well for you.

[SVS]

This is a heavy, large diameter gear compared to the shaft size. Different ball game than a 3” Zamack pulley.

I don’t like the cutout sleeve here because it requires simultaneous install of sleeve and key.

I’d prefer (if Taper-Loc is not possible) a sleeve with light press fit followed by a broach to split sleeve in place, then a tight fitting key, or even better, Rich’s gib-head key.

[nickel-city-fab]

If I was going to go with the split sleeve I would start out with a full sleeve and the cut key way out once it’s assembled.

I would either Loctite (retaining compound) it in, TIG weld it in if gear material allows, or possibly silver solder it in place.

X2, I completely agree with oxford. Solder or loctite a sleeve in place on the shaft, then cut the key through that.

[JRouche]

[QUOTE=Tobias-B;n1974018]

silage pit

I know those, most dont/ Funny, we used to play in the silage dump. Hey? I sorta survived, 45yers later. JR

[nickel-city-fab]

[QUOTE=JRouche;n1974094]

silage pit

I know those, most dont/ Funny, we used to play in the silage dump. Hey? I sorta survived, 45yers later. JR

I was riding my motorcycle in a 45 mph cross wind from college one day, and a local hog farmer inadvertently.... was blowing silage that day. Got a face full of it, open face helmet.
A whole new meaning to "eating bugs"

[RMinMN]

This is a heavy, large diameter gear compared to the shaft size. Different ball game than a 3” Zamack pulley.

I don’t like the cutout sleeve here because it requires simultaneous install of sleeve and key.

I’d prefer (if Taper-Loc is not possible) a sleeve with light press fit followed by a broach to split sleeve in place, then a tight fitting key, or even better, Rich’s gib-head key.

Buncha dang machinists here, not mechanics. Put the sleeve with the keyhole on the shaft, put the key into it, slide the gear on and lock it in place. This isn't a 10,000 rpm pump and it doesn't need the sleeve locktited.

[nickel-city-fab]

Buncha dang machinists here, not mechanics. Put the sleeve with the keyhole on the shaft, put the key into it, slide the gear on and lock it in place. This isn't a 10,000 rpm pump and it doesn't need the sleeve locktited.

When you cut the slot for the key the sleeve *will* spring open and then you won't be assembling anything. You have to think like a machinist sometimes -- that is why loctite the sleeve onto the shaft, so it can't spring.

[mochinist]

When you cut the slot for the key the sleeve *will* spring open and then you won't be assembling anything. You have to think like a machinist sometimes -- that is why loctite the sleeve onto the shaft, so it can't spring.

Done this exact thing many times when time was an issue, yeah it springs when you cut the slot, but you just “spring” it back into place when assembling everything back together, it can be a minor pain if you try and hold the split bushing to unnecessarily tight tolerances, but that is operator error/ignorance of whats needed. There are other better ways to do this already mentioned in this thread, but this way will work fine for this application imho.

[LKeithR]

Buncha dang machinists here, not mechanics. Put the sleeve with the keyhole on the shaft, put the key into it, slide the gear on and lock it in place. This isn't a 10,000 rpm pump and it doesn't need the sleeve locktited.

You're on the right track--a lot of overthinking here. To make things a little easier I'd put the sleeve (with
a shoulder on it) and the key in the bore before assembling--that will keep the sleeve from springing and
the shoulder ensures that the shaft goes into the sleeve without pushing it out of the bore. No Loctite...

[nickel-city-fab]

You're on the right track--a lot of overthinking here. To make things a little easier I'd put the sleeve (with
a shoulder on it) and the key in the bore before assembling--that will keep the sleeve from springing and
the shoulder ensures that the shaft goes into the sleeve without pushing it out of the bore. No Loctite...

Ah, I see! putting the sleeve into the bore first, instead of on the shaft first. Yep, that is indeed a better idea.

[Spindle]

I'm grateful for all the helpful responses here and need to apologize for not participating. Even though I subscribed to the thread and selected email notifications for new posts I'm not getting notified. Not in spam, trash, or inbox.
If I use a shouldered bushing, is there a need to make it large enough to install screws through the shoulder into the hub? Please stop me if I'm overthinking as I often do.

[J Tiers]

probably overthinking. Does not sound like a really high stress usage, depending on pump pressure.

I was riding my motorcycle in a 45 mph cross wind from college one day, and a local hog farmer inadvertently.... was blowing silage that day. Got a face full of it, open face helmet.
A whole new meaning to "eating bugs"

Not sure if you are talking "silage" there....... Silage ain't sewage.

[old mart]

I'm grateful for all the helpful responses here and need to apologize for not participating. Even though I subscribed to the thread and selected email notifications for new posts I'm not getting notified. Not in spam, trash, or inbox.
If I use a shouldered bushing, is there a need to make it large enough to install screws through the shoulder into the hub? Please stop me if I'm overthinking as I often do.

You certainly could, if there was space for it, but a JT says "probably overthinking".