Gear Hub Bushing?

[RMinMN]

This is a heavy, large diameter gear compared to the shaft size. Different ball game than a 3” Zamack pulley.

I don’t like the cutout sleeve here because it requires simultaneous install of sleeve and key.

I’d prefer (if Taper-Loc is not possible) a sleeve with light press fit followed by a broach to split sleeve in place, then a tight fitting key, or even better, Rich’s gib-head key.

Buncha dang machinists here, not mechanics. Put the sleeve with the keyhole on the shaft, put the key into it, slide the gear on and lock it in place. This isn't a 10,000 rpm pump and it doesn't need the sleeve locktited.

[nickel-city-fab]

[QUOTE=JRouche;n1974094]

silage pit

I know those, most dont/ Funny, we used to play in the silage dump. Hey? I sorta survived, 45yers later. JR

I was riding my motorcycle in a 45 mph cross wind from college one day, and a local hog farmer inadvertently.... was blowing silage that day. Got a face full of it, open face helmet.
A whole new meaning to "eating bugs"

[JRouche]

[QUOTE=Tobias-B;n1974018]

silage pit

I know those, most dont/ Funny, we used to play in the silage dump. Hey? I sorta survived, 45yers later. JR

[nickel-city-fab]

If I was going to go with the split sleeve I would start out with a full sleeve and the cut key way out once it’s assembled.

I would either Loctite (retaining compound) it in, TIG weld it in if gear material allows, or possibly silver solder it in place.

X2, I completely agree with oxford. Solder or loctite a sleeve in place on the shaft, then cut the key through that.

[SVS]

This is a heavy, large diameter gear compared to the shaft size. Different ball game than a 3” Zamack pulley.

I don’t like the cutout sleeve here because it requires simultaneous install of sleeve and key.

I’d prefer (if Taper-Loc is not possible) a sleeve with light press fit followed by a broach to split sleeve in place, then a tight fitting key, or even better, Rich’s gib-head key.

[J Tiers]

Do a split bushing, but since it is old equipment, make a hammer key . It will look perfect !
................................................

Rich

Edit
The key is so tight , that a pry bar is used between the key head and the wheel to remove the components

Pry bar, or dynamite..... some of those are so tight on old hit and miss engines that they refuse to come out at all. Had one on an old Columbian blacksmith vise (actually a double key) and thaat one fought pretty hard as well, but I did get that one out so I could re-adjust the vise position.

DO NOT try hammering on the small end.... that will not go well for you.

[LKeithR]

I've used these in the past on gas engines to adapt the shaft to an oddball pulley. Never had any issues.
It would be easy to make one.

Now that is the way to do it. I've been doing this kind of work for a long time and I've never
thought about making something like that. Neat idea, would have saved my bacon a couple
times in the past. I'd consider making the slot just a bit shorter so you leave more material
on the ends of the sleeve. And I would still consider making the sleeve with a shoulder on
one end...

[Rich Carlstedt]

Do a split bushing, but since it is old equipment, make a hammer key . It will look perfect !
The Hammer key works differently than normal keys,
Instead of restricting rotary location movement as normal keys do, it also loads the parts "vertically" ( when keyway is on top)
This load stiffens the engagement and relieves rotary loads
The hammer key should have a slight taper and wedge the top and bottom of the keyways which will lock in the shaft/wheel
The Hammer key is also known as a Gib-head key by some because of the small taper

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/36/08...43fa8100e2.jpg

Rich

Edit
The key is so tight , that a pry bar is used between the key head and the wheel to remove the components

[old mart]

When I saw the dimensions, I immediately thought of exactly the solution so perfectly illustrated by Willy. You might have to make a double width key if the keyways are not the same, but that is easy.

[Tobias-B]

Having grown up on a farm that was surrounded by other farms which are all populated by...

yeah, farmers...

the appropriate way to do that is to cut a strip of 1/8th sheet stock
(preferably out of an old car you've parked out behind the silage pit)
form it into a cylinder on your anvil
and drive it home with a mallet.

t
farmered it up good.

[Dan Dubeau]

If that was a job I was tasked with, I'd make a full sleeve, probably with a shoulder, and solder it into the hub. Then I'd split it with a hacksaw, and hand file the keyway into the existing one. Not saying that's the best way, it's just how I'd tackle it. I've made a few sleeves for custom gahzintas before but never one that big. Smallest I've made was a 3mm into a 1/8", that was fun .

I do like the full sleeve above. That also looks like a great viable solution.

[Willy]

I've used these in the past on gas engines to adapt the shaft to an oddball pulley. Never had any issues.
It would be easy to make one.

[J Tiers]

Along that line, there is no law that says the sleeve cannot be a full unsplit sleeve, with a cutout in it for a key. I've done that, and it worked better than a split sleeve.

[oxford]

If I was going to go with the split sleeve I would start out with a full sleeve and the cut key way out once it’s assembled.

I would either Loctite (retaining compound) it in, TIG weld it in if gear material allows, or possibly silver solder it in place.

[nickel-city-fab]

I think a split sleeve with loctite on the shaft only would be OK. I've done similar jobs in the past that held up just fine. Keep everything the same size it is now.