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Gear Hub Bushing?

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  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by LKeithR View Post
    I'd make the sleeve with a shoulder on one side
    so that when you press or drive it on the shaft it stays in place...
    Im with Keith on this one. A shoulder is a nice feature for this and many bushings. I make my bushings with a lip. Why not?

    Not just the engine bushings I deal with. I have made suspension bushings that really on the "lip" to locate the bearing.

    I like a flat bushings, and a bushing with a side lip. JR




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  • LKeithR
    replied
    Originally posted by SVS View Post
    ..A bulletproof method would be boring the hub to accept a taper lock sleeve...
    Yeah, I thought about that, too but, like you said, the job could only be done on a lathe. A straight
    bore can be done on a milling machine. Trickiest part of using a split sleeve is getting it good and
    tight while still being able to assemble the parts. I'd make the sleeve with a shoulder on one side
    so that when you press or drive it on the shaft it stays in place...

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  • rdfeil
    replied
    Considering the keyways seem to be the same width, I would machine a split sleeve with a tight slip fit and then make a proper key to drive with. With those type of piston pumps you will never have a problem. The three cylinder pumps have an almost constant load on the drive system so very little impact or vibration as it works. Wonderful pumps that will outlast all of us if kept properly greased....

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    For just moving water, not really pumping against pressure, it would probably be fine. If you had to transmit serious power, it might be good to investigate some form of bushing that would attach to the gear, and be driven directly by the key.

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  • SVS
    replied
    A bulletproof method would be boring the hub to accept a taper lock sleeve.

    This assumes a lathe big enough to swing the pulley. Split sleeve would be easier especially with small lathe, and probably good enough.

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  • Spindle
    replied
    I do intend to run this and pump water, though not developing much pressure. The hub is 2 5/16" OD. How thick should the sleeve walls be? There's room to make a sleeve with a flange that can be screwed to the hub face if needed. Will run @ 30 rpm.



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  • LKeithR
    replied
    Depends on how much it's going to be used and how much load is involved. If you're just putting
    it together for display/demonstration purposes you might get away with a simple split bushing. There's
    lots of meat in that hub so the ideal way to adapt it is to bore it out for a larger sleeve,,,

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  • Spindle
    started a topic Gear Hub Bushing?

    Gear Hub Bushing?

    A Kieth Rucker project for sure.

    I'd like to fit this 1.250" ID gear on this 1.000" shaft. Would a split bushing & key be the way to go or something more involved?

    MH Davidson triplex orchard sprayer pump, don't know the production date but the last patent date is 1907.

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