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OT Plumbing / copper corrosion fix - advice sought

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  • #31
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post

    Orangeburg pipe, named are the town where it was made:
    I had suspected that. As I said it's a broadly used term / word.



    • #32
      Originally posted by wmgeorge View Post
      Around here years ago and they finally stopped its use, was Orangeburg for the sewer run to the street. Bad, bad and expensive to dig up.
      I had Orangeburg from the house to the septic tank. Installed around 1960 and a problem when I moved in 1973. It had taken a serious sag where the ground underneath it had sunk. I dug it and replaced it myself - not fun.


      • #33
        Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post

        Cast iron does get root problems. I suspect that it's the hubs not being sealed tight enough. Once even a tiny, tiny feeler root gets through it will keep growing. Trees love sewer pipes: lots of water and nutrients!
        More likely either deterioration (our pipes were almost 90 years old), or shifting of ground so that the joints are compromised. Undisturbed newly laid pipe should be as root proof as injointed plastic

        Iron pipes rust, and the hubs are no exception.
        CNC machines only go through the motions


        • #34
          Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

          thoughts? ideas?
          It looks a lil broke Almost looks like a freeze split, cept for the thinning. After the other pics Id say you have a trip to the hardware store coming up.. Whats nice about ripping it all out and redoing it is you will sleep better at night. JR


          • #35
            Originally posted by JRouche View Post
            Whats nice about ripping it all out and redoing it is you will sleep better at night. JR
            not happening unless additional parts of it start leaking. Most of the visible corrosion in the above photos (except the whole in the pipe) is minor and is on the stack side of thing. The concern, what caused that rotten that friggin pipe and does it extent further into the drain system? The effort to replace is large enough that I wouldn't be worth it unless/until its a problem. Also remember there is new kitchen now so access is not simple, eff almost impossible. The masonry material I left around the pipes is cement or some hard plaster base coat and would not come easily. It would be brutal getting out . I did briefly entertain replacing it all with ABS and going straight down, but it gets really complicated and crowded trying to tie into the horizontal cast iron run to the stack underneath that is up between joints. As well I'd have to connect the vents.
            in Toronto Ontario - where are you?


            • #36
              Maybe you have a choice, maybe not. It's likely to be thin further along, possibly due to the slope being NOT so as to drain out. (and how bad does it need to be to be a "problem"? That looks like one already, the pipe will not hold water. )

              Cut 2" past the hole. See how thick it is. If not good enough, cut another 2". Keep it up until you run into the next pipe, or it becomes acceptably thick to put a clamp on it without collapsing it.

              It is what it is, the only thing to do is find out.
              CNC machines only go through the motions