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OT Plumbing / copper corrosion fix - advice sought

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Maybe you have a choice, maybe not. It's likely to be thin further along, possibly due to the slope being NOT so as to drain out. (and how bad does it need to be to be a "problem"? That looks like one already, the pipe will not hold water. )

    Cut 2" past the hole. See how thick it is. If not good enough, cut another 2". Keep it up until you run into the next pipe, or it becomes acceptably thick to put a clamp on it without collapsing it.

    It is what it is, the only thing to do is find out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mcgyver
    replied
    Originally posted by JRouche View Post
    Whats nice about ripping it all out and redoing it is you will sleep better at night. JR
    not happening unless additional parts of it start leaking. Most of the visible corrosion in the above photos (except the whole in the pipe) is minor and is on the stack side of thing. The concern, what caused that rotten that friggin pipe and does it extent further into the drain system? The effort to replace is large enough that I wouldn't be worth it unless/until its a problem. Also remember there is new kitchen now so access is not simple, eff almost impossible. The masonry material I left around the pipes is cement or some hard plaster base coat and would not come easily. It would be brutal getting out . I did briefly entertain replacing it all with ABS and going straight down, but it gets really complicated and crowded trying to tie into the horizontal cast iron run to the stack underneath that is up between joints. As well I'd have to connect the vents.

    Leave a comment:


  • JRouche
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post

    thoughts? ideas?
    It looks a lil broke Almost looks like a freeze split, cept for the thinning. After the other pics Id say you have a trip to the hardware store coming up.. Whats nice about ripping it all out and redoing it is you will sleep better at night. JR

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post

    Cast iron does get root problems. I suspect that it's the hubs not being sealed tight enough. Once even a tiny, tiny feeler root gets through it will keep growing. Trees love sewer pipes: lots of water and nutrients!
    More likely either deterioration (our pipes were almost 90 years old), or shifting of ground so that the joints are compromised. Undisturbed newly laid pipe should be as root proof as injointed plastic

    Iron pipes rust, and the hubs are no exception.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by wmgeorge View Post
    ...
    Around here years ago and they finally stopped its use, was Orangeburg for the sewer run to the street. Bad, bad and expensive to dig up.
    I had Orangeburg from the house to the septic tank. Installed around 1960 and a problem when I moved in 1973. It had taken a serious sag where the ground underneath it had sunk. I dug it and replaced it myself - not fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post

    Orangeburg pipe, named are the town where it was made: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orangeburg_pipe
    I had suspected that. As I said it's a broadly used term / word.

    JL................

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  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post

    Cast iron does get root problems. I suspect that it's the hubs not being sealed tight enough. Once even a tiny, tiny feeler root gets through it will keep growing. Trees love sewer pipes: lots of water and nutrients!
    Yes, and I imagine if it continues to grow it may crack the joint making things worse.

    JL..................

    Leave a comment:


  • reggie_obe
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    I always thought Orangeburg was the orange clay drainage tile, but I guess it was just a generic name that was broadly used.

    JL...............
    Orangeburg pipe, named are the town where it was made: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orangeburg_pipe

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    Never had a root problem., all iron sewer pipe here. You must have the old clay segmented pipe. ...
    Cast iron does get root problems. I suspect that it's the hubs not being sealed tight enough. Once even a tiny, tiny feeler root gets through it will keep growing. Trees love sewer pipes: lots of water and nutrients!

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

    Nope, it was iron pipe where the problem was. All iron out to the perimeter wall, then 6" clay after that. Clay was never a problem, but we had it lined from the stack at the far back corner of the house all the way past the (replaced) pipe from another stack, and on out to the yard trap.

    The roots were in the iron pipe nearly in the exact center of the house.
    How do roots get through cast iron pipe ? bad lead joint or cracked pipe ?

    The clay pipes at my aunts house had shifted so they couldn't even be lined. The largest dia. pipe that would fit past the jog was about 3". That wouldn't work out too well for sewer pipe.
    So other than digging it all out and replacing it they just left it and when it clogged had the plumber clean it out.

    JL................

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by wmgeorge View Post
    OMG Joel, that looks like a nightmare!! Yes PVC for drains, PEX for water is the way to go, Yes and I can solder very well thank you but its the corrosion.

    Around here years ago and they finally stopped its use, was Orangeburg for the sewer run to the street. Bad, bad and expensive to dig up.
    I always thought Orangeburg was the orange clay drainage tile, but I guess it was just a generic name that was broadly used.

    JL...............

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    Never had a root problem., all iron sewer pipe here. You must have the old clay segmented pipe. My aunts house being much older had clay pipe going to the sewer and she constantly had a root problem. The plumber sent a camera snake down the pipe one day. I could see the sections in the old pipe and the roots growing through them as well as through the cracks in it.

    JL.................
    Nope, it was iron pipe where the problem was. All iron out to the perimeter wall, then 6" clay after that. Clay was never a problem, but we had it lined from the stack at the far back corner of the house all the way past the (replaced) pipe from another stack, and on out to the yard trap.

    The roots were in the iron pipe nearly in the exact center of the house.

    Leave a comment:


  • wmgeorge
    replied
    OMG Joel, that looks like a nightmare!! Yes PVC for drains, PEX for water is the way to go, Yes and I can solder very well thank you but its the corrosion.

    Around here years ago and they finally stopped its use, was Orangeburg for the sewer run to the street. Bad, bad and expensive to dig up.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Message to OP............ I would much rather swap this job out for your under the sink repair any day. Don't complain.

    After poking through the original cast iron "Y" I replaced it with PVC. That section has always been a problem. Not much pitch to the pipe. The bottom of the "Y" was completely eaten away from years of pouring all sorts of drain cleaners down it and that's where the cleaner sits until the clog is broken up. And sometimes the drain cleaner never worked and I had to run the snake down through anyway. I let it sit for over a year before I covered it up just to be sure. I was still getting water in the hole. The straight shot is from the kitchen sink and the angled pipe going into the "Y" is from the laundry room.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-20200522-112752.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.4 KB ID:	1974854

    So, I ended up cutting another three foot out of pipe because the bottom had rotted out of it as well. Five foot beyond that it's into the sewer pipe. If it leaks beyond that point it's just about out side. I had to be careful cutting through the concrete floor as I knew the electrical service conduit was there somewhere. You can see it just above the drain pipe. This time I put a clean out just before the "Y".
    So don't complain about working under a sink.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-20200522-191423.jpg Views:	0 Size:	285.8 KB ID:	1974855
    Last edited by JoeLee; 12-15-2021, 09:59 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doozer
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    I don't like plastic pipe on the supply side but am all for it on drain pipe.

    JL...............
    Yes regarding PVC but PEX is wonderful.

    -D

    Leave a comment:

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