Brand New LittleMachineShop Lathe Owner

[darryl]

Beering. That's coating your insides with a chemical substance which is delivered to your brain in a controlled manner. Bluing is coating an exterior surface as an aid to preparing that surface. Blueprinting is checking all surfaces to see if they conform to the blueprint. Blackprinting is something else entirely- something that happens when you go to the wrong party.

[The Artful Bodger]

Let's talk about beer now.

-D

We could go through the pick-up trucks again.

[Doozer]

Let's talk about beer now.

-D

[reggie_obe]

However I know that the best lathes are imports.

What isn't an import to New Zealand?
Even you are. I doubt you are Maori.

[The Artful Bodger]

Those of us who don't blindly believe the import lathes are well made and a good starter machine knew exactly what you meant.

However I know that the best lathes are imports.

[The Artful Bodger]

Here’s an example that was requested. Replying from my iPhone is challenging on this forum…

Very interesting, thank you.

John

[reggie_obe]

I should of said “Blueing” instead of “Blueprinting”.

Those of us who don't blindly believe the import lathes are well made and a good starter machine knew exactly what you meant.

[RB211]

I should of said “Blueing” instead of “Blueprinting”.

[Peter.]

Blueing & scraping and blueprinting are two different things.

What Nick is doing in the above video is blueing. His initial results are no surprise at all. I have swan-necked scrapers I use for doing those dovetails. Saves having to work on the edge of the blade and risking a dig-in.

[RB211]

Here’s an example that was requested. Replying from my iPhone is challenging on this forum…

[Doozer]

The way I've always heard it used was it meant returning all the parts in a given mechanism to the center of their respective tolerances, according to the blueprint.

The purpose was to eliminate tolerance stacking.

Since no reference surface was used, it had nothing to to with a reference plate.

If the engineer did his job,
there will be no tolerance stacking.
Just saying.

-Doozer

[Jammer Six]

What does "blue printed" mean?

The way I've always heard it used was it meant returning all the parts in a given mechanism to the center of their respective tolerances, according to the blueprint.

The purpose was to eliminate tolerance stacking.

Since no reference surface was used, it had nothing to to with a reference plate.

[darryl]

Somebody mentioned it a bit ago- you can hand feed the carriage easily, and for a lot of jobs you won't need to bother with change gears. I can't remember the last time I used power feed.

One thing I did long ago is remove the carriage handwheel. I did not like the action of cranking it with the little knob that's attached to it- pulling the apron back and forth, up and down depending on where the little knob was as the handwheel rotated. I replaced the handwheel with a 6 inch long section of 1-1/2 diameter aluminum tube, making up a little hub so it could attach to the existing handwheel axle. I didn't know if I would like that, but I do and have never gone back. I like the feel, I can easily go hand over hand for a continuous carriage movement, and I can back away from the chuck quickly with one twist of my hand. This isn't ideal for a long cut to take down a diameter, but I like it for 90% of what I do. I can still engage power feed if I want to.

This lathe is an 8x18, which as far as I can tell is bodily the same as the 9x19- at least in the era in which those were made en masse. My threading chart shows the gear tooth count and the positions for the change gears listed, as well as the gearbox position ( I think there are either 7 or 9 positions, I could go look-). That means there are probably a hundred or more different ratios the lead screw can be driven at, and by ignoring the chart and just playing with the gear train there are more ratios that could be used- even if these extra ones don't correspond to a known thread count. But as far as power feed goes, this gives way more ratios than anyone would care to set up. Even without the 7 position gear box, or just leaving it in one position, there are still several lead screw ratios that can be had by selecting the change gears. And that means several different feed rates are available even without the gear box. If you look at the final result only, you would see that the finest feed rate corresponds to the finest thread that could be cut, and the actions are the same. There are only two differences- one being that threading generally corresponds to higher feed rates ( a 6 tpi for instance requires a feed rate of about 160 thou per turn) and the threading system allows you to lock onto the lead screw in an exact and repeatable position for making multiple passes to bring a thread to proper depth. This action is not needed for feeding.

It's fun to play with the numbers. For instance, if you set up for a feed rate of 2 thou per inch, that corresponds to a thread of 500 tpi- pretty much useless for anything, but totally possible to create with a dead sharp cutter- and doable in one pass. The threading system with the half nuts won't let you get anywhere near this- 56 tpi is the limit on my thread chart.

[Tundra Twin Track]

[QUOTE=nickel-city-fab;n1975542]I would like to remind everyone that we're here to help the new guy out, not bash on each other's equipment.



I’m with you on that NCF, new guy just starting out hope his New Machine works great.Wecome to the Forum Jammer!

[JRouche]

Yes. But the ego trips of some people always seen to poison threads from new members.

Jammer, welcome aboard!

-js

Hey now, was I bad again? ha.. Always.

Me: "Thats a very nice machine. It has all the features you are looking for. You are going to have Fun! JR"


My objective is to not piss anyone off. Trying to turn a new leaf. You know, change... JR