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Hendey 12x30 inspection, disassembly and cleaning

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  • You own a Hendey.
    You can start referring to the QCGB
    as the Norton box.

    -Doozer
    DZER

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    • Finished up installing the cover for the drive clutch and brake. You have to pull the end cap casting off to change belts, not the best design but it's not that difficult to pull off.
      I decided that I want to install the carriage and apron before I mount the Norton gear box. Besides there's issues with the two control shafts that don't need to be installed before the apron, they just get in the way.

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      I also decided to scrape the top of the carriage where the compound sits for better oil retention. I also scraped the mating surface of the compound slide as well.


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      I also made the felt wipers for the carriage. I read somewhere that rubber wipers are also very effective and some advised using both felt and rubber. So I made both and installed them on the carriage. We'll see how effective they are.

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      • Pretty green.
        I regret painting my Hendey generic smoke grey.

        -D
        DZER

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        • Thanks Doozer I appreciate your comments

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          • Installed the apron to the carriage. Lots of fiddley stuff to get it lined up. I filled up the apron reservoir and tested the pump before I bolted them together. The pump works fine. I had to make some rubber gaskets so the pump would allow it to pressurize the carriage compound V ways. Oil flows up into the carriage and out on to the compound V ways, it's a pretty slick system.

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            • Originally posted by Doozer View Post
              Pretty green.
              I regret painting my Hendey generic smoke grey.

              -D
              +1

              What is that shade called? I like it!

              Comment


              • Originally posted by skipd1 View Post
                Finished up installing the cover for the drive clutch and brake. You have to pull the end cap casting off to change belts, not the best design but it's not that difficult to pull off.
                I decided that I want to install the carriage and apron before I mount the Norton gear box. Besides there's issues with the two control shafts that don't need to be installed before the apron, they just get in the way.

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                I also decided to scrape the top of the carriage where the compound sits for better oil retention. I also scraped the mating surface of the compound slide as well.


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                I also made the felt wipers for the carriage. I read somewhere that rubber wipers are also very effective and some advised using both felt and rubber. So I made both and installed them on the carriage. We'll see how effective they are.
                Wow, super work!

                They went with a lot of belts on these lathes so they don't wear out. I bet a new set goes 40 years or better.

                Cool on the scraping. I didn't know you did that. It's something I need to get into some day.

                Felt is good. Rubber is arguably better in some areas. Brass is arguably better in others. If I had my ultimate way wiper, it would be like Axleson, angled to push chips off, then a brass scraper, then rubber, then felt. With good oil, it simply wouldn't wear. Too much oil film. I truely think that lathes get worn out due to grit and lack of lubrication. The contact area to pressure is nearly zero compared to say a wrist pin. What you did will work super if your ways are in good shape. On my Sidney I used felt only. That's how it was setup, and the ways are badly scored, so rubber would do little. On dad's Lagun, the ways are in very good shape, so I used only rubber. The felt would only really re-distribute oil, which the rubber does a good job of.

                Ex: felt with no rubber used on cast iron requires semi-frequent cleaning to maintain effectiveness. But rubber does not. But rubber doesn't "self-heal" once there is a nick in it. Your setup, the rubber wipes the majority and the felt will wipe the fines that get under. I suspect you will see nearly zero wear ever if you keep it well oiled. Kudos on the job well done there.

                Originally posted by skipd1 View Post

                Installed the apron to the carriage. Lots of fiddley stuff to get it lined up. I filled up the apron reservoir and tested the pump before I bolted them together. The pump works fine. I had to make some rubber gaskets so the pump would allow it to pressurize the carriage compound V ways. Oil flows up into the carriage and out on to the compound V ways, it's a pretty slick system.

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                Very nice. Where was the rubber used? I'm curious as I didn't need any gaskets on mine. Flows on the the cross-slide ways or all the way up into the compound? Either way it's a slick setup, but an auto-oiled compound would be amazing.
                21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                Comment


                • Originally posted by SVS View Post

                  +1

                  What is that shade called? I like it!
                  Its Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel in "Secret Garden" color

                  Comment


                  • I have that same lathe that I've been "restoring" for the last 5 or 6 years, and by that I mean I stupidly decided to repaint it and everything has been taken apart this whole time and I don't have room to work on it. You've done a wonderful job on yours. Really beautiful work!
                    Stuart de Haro

                    Comment


                    • Control shafts for drive clutch/brake, and the leadscrew reverse finished. Lots of fiddley adjustments and alignment to get these handles working in the correct positions.

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                      I'm going to have to power up the motor and check these adjustments pretty soon, but for now I think it's time to finish the cross slide and compound with the taper attachment.

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                      • Cool factoid about Hendey is they’ll cut a 45* champher by pulling both feeds at once. The literature mentions combining this feature with the taper attachment to cut a wider than usual range of tapers.

                        I THINK that’s rare among other brands?

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by SVS View Post
                          Cool factoid about Hendey is they’ll cut a 45* champher by pulling both feeds at once. The literature mentions combining this feature with the taper attachment to cut a wider than usual range of tapers.

                          I THINK that’s rare among other brands?
                          I don’t know exactly how common that feature was but, it was available from other high quality manufacturers. Pratt and Whitney definitely offered it.

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                          • Tried my Sidney today to be sure…it does not, pretty sure my former Monarch CBB didn’t either. (To be clear-On the front side of the work.)

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                            • Originally posted by SVS View Post
                              Tried my Sidney today to be sure…it does not, pretty sure my former Monarch CBB didn’t either. (To be clear-On the front side of the work.)
                              Sidneys are unusual do to the feeding direction. It will do it, you just need to be on the back side of the work.
                              21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                              1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                              Comment


                              • Finished installing the cross slide and compound with the taper attachment. It took me a while to completely understand how the taper attachment works as I have never used or had one myself.
                                The gibs for the taper attachment, cross slide and compound were in really good condition and all the sliding V ways work nice and smooth. It was a relief as before I stripped it down most of the sliding ways were very sticky.

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                                I need to make another oval washer for the adjustment knob on the back side of the taper attachment and a thicker washer for the binding clamp. I think there is supposed to be a casting that clamps to the ways from a long threaded stud on the back, but I believe their not necessary for the taper attachment to work properly.
                                I am somewhat disappointed in the rough condition of the compound as its been mangled to the point its difficult to read the degree scale. Its difficult to believe that an operator can be that rough on a machine. If that's the worst thing that happened to this machine in almost 85 years I'm okay with that!

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