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SB13 Dial

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  • SB13 Dial

    The cross-feed dial on my 13" South Bend lathe has never locked making it nearly useless. I finally got around to taking it apart and there's a sleeve that blocks the pin from contacting the shaft. Would I be correct in thinking that the sleeve is an adapter because the dial is from another machine? My first thought is to drill a hole in the sleeve so the pin can pass through it.
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  • #2
    That sleeve may be intended to be held tight between features on the shaft (nuts, collars, etc) that take up end play. That way you can reset the dial to zero as needed, without the dial having to take the tightening, which would make it hard to turn.

    I made a similar system for my Logan, for just that reason.
    4357 2773 5150 9120 9135 8645 1007 1190 2133 9120 5942

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

    Everything not impossible is compulsory

    "There's no pleasing these serpents"......Lewis Carroll

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    • #3
      From what I see in the parts list, it looks like the sleeve is secured with a pin and turns with the graduated collar and the locking screw bears against the sleeve.

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      • #4
        Hmm. With the screw cranked down as hard as I dare the dial spins freely. I guess the pin is buggered up. I tried tapping it out but it's too long to come out through the bore.

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        • #5
          Ok, the pin goes into the cross feed shaft and the slot in the collar engages with it. The collar turns with the shaft. The micrometer graduated collar goes over the sleeve and the finger screw tightens down on the sleeve to lock it to the cross feed shaft through the collar. This design was the last design SB used for the cross feed, earlier versions used the same micrometer collar but without the sleeve and pin. You may need only the pin if your cross feed shaft has a hole for it, or you may have to drill the hole if it's a earlier shaft.

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          • #6
            I just realized that the issue here is much deeper than the dial. I'm going to take the cross-feed completely apart and correct everything.

            Thanks for your help.

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            • #7
              I see that there's the locking screw and a short pin. Those are typically brass or aluminium so you don't score the bushing. But being a softer material they can become swaged shorter and thicker over time and might not fit through the hole any longer. You may just need a new pad pin. Or in some way reduce the diameter of the old one so it can fall through the index dial's hole.
              Chilliwack BC, Canada

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              • #8
                The locking pin is indeed too short. I have brazing rod that's the right diameter so that's an easy fix.

                Where are you guys seeing a parts diagram? The lathe came with a tapering attachment that I want to get rid of so I'll need to source a few parts. The gears are noisy as hell, too.

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                • #9
                  You can down load it here:
                  https://www.scribd.com/doc/85638513/CE3458-Parts-Manual

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                  • #10
                    Why would anyone want to get rid of their taper attachment? My lathe doesn't have one and I really wish it did.
                    “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

                    Lewis Grizzard

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Dave C View Post
                      Why would anyone want to get rid of their taper attachment? My lathe doesn't have one and I really wish it did.
                      This is my third (and probably last) lathe and I've never needed or wanted to make a taper that would require it.

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                      • #12
                        Commander I would be interested in the taper attachment for the 13" SB assuming of course it is in good condition and complete. Check your PM box.

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