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Lubricant For Bandsaw Cutting

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  • #16
    Thanks Rich. I might try that candle wax. I wonder if I can melt down that stick of Cut-Eaze....

    Weirdscience, 2500 SFM doesn't sound unreasonable as I used to cut on my 14" wood bandsaw with no issues (using wood blades like you).

    My blades are 14'-7" long and I just looked up carbon steel wood blades...$26 each, Lennox brand and they say they are suitable for aluminum. I paid $75 each for these bi-metal blades for metals and they suck compared to the performance I remember out of aggressive wood specific blades.
    Last edited by polaraligned; 01-11-2022, 01:08 AM.


    • #17
      On my 4x6 horizontal/vertical saw I tried a stick of the waxy blade lube. It did make the teeth load up less with aluminium and seemed to ease the cuts in steel. But the advantages did not make up for the sticky gloopy mess of waxy lube and swarf that built up around the guide bearings. it also made the saw run noisy due to the swarf being held on the side of the blades and the guide bearings bumping over it all.

      So I cleaned the saw up and never used the sticky lube stick anymore.

      candle was might work differently since it's essentially dry at room temperature.

      I tried some WD40 on a few cuts into aluminium but other than being oily and not sticky it had the same problem as the waxy lube stick. swarf on the side of the blade being run over by the guide wheels made for a lumpier running.

      So in the end I sighed and do all my cuts dry. A big part for me with aluminium was to reduce the pressure of the cut to prevent the tooth gullets from packing full. When that happens it's almost a guarantee that the chips will end up sticking to the teeth.

      The only other option as I see it is full on flood coolant and lube so it flushes the chips off the blade before it hits the rollers. Of course this won't work for a vertical saw. For that I rather like Doozer's suggestion of the vortex air to blow away and cool the blade and work at the same time. Oddly enough I'm thinking that the best place on a vertical saw would be under the table to clear and cool the blade just before it passes into the lower guide blocks or rollers.
      Chilliwack BC, Canada


      • #18
        here is what i talked about earlier

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        Green Bay, WI


        • #19
          Yes Rich, that is what you described, cutting thru the bar to load up the teeth. I have it a little easier as I was speaking about my vertical bandsaw. My horizontal one has flood and there is never an issue there. Thanks.


          • #20
            In my experience, if aluminum gets too hot to hold in a band saw your blade is DULL DULL DULL. A sharp blade cuts with almost no effort and barely any temp rise.


            • #21
              Originally posted by Erich View Post
              In my experience, if aluminum gets too hot to hold in a band saw your blade is DULL DULL DULL. A sharp blade cuts with almost no effort and barely any temp rise.
              There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

              Location: SF Bay Area


              • #22
                i am a metal scrapper and i have gallons of oil from AC compressors,,i have use this in drill press, works great as a cutting oil,,make freinds with a scrapper in your area , i am sure they will give you plenty of it FREE... another lube is Kerosene,yes kerosene is a lube,,,,better than at my lowes its 10$ a gallon, some gas stations sell kero,, some mom and pop hardware stores sell kero usually at 4-5 a gallon..if u just need cool,, make a air powered vortex generator,,runs off compressed air, no moving parts,hot air out one end , cold air out the other end..very inneficent though, must keep small compressor running all the time..
                FORD BEATING JAP CRAP SINCE 1941!! CAROLYN JONES(1930-1983 actress)may this lady never be forgotten.


                • #23
                  Lubricant For Bandsaw Cutting

                  For a vertical unit, a dry saw I would use a bar of soap...
                  tt works... JR


                  • #24
                    Boelube works great for aluminuim. A solid stick, probably soap based with vitamins and minerals that work well. It helps to have a little heat on the band then just rub it slightly on both sides.

                    Here's a seller I googled.

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                    Last edited by I make chips; 01-17-2022, 10:57 AM.


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
                      Candle wax 100 % IMHO
                      You want Petroleum based wax, which is what cheap candles use
                      If you are unsure, go to a Hardware store and buy wax for canning which comes in Bars . That gave me an idea after using them
                      and i took a plastic tray that had 2" x 6" sections (molds !) and then melted several pounds of wax and poured bars 2 x 6 x 1/2 to 3/4 thick

                      Then using a metal spring clamp , I clamp the bar infront of the work being cutoff , simple and throw the pieces in a pot and remelt later


                      The danger of candles is the wick can grab and pull you hand in or mess the cut up

                      Please note, you are not lubricating the blade ! you are lubricating the tooth gullets by letting the blade cut through the bar
                      No Wheel Slippage occurs..ever
                      Rich: I have been using candles for years and never had any hint of a wick trying to grab. The wick is easily cut by the blade.