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The old OHIO #2...a few pics...innards

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  • The old OHIO #2...a few pics...innards

    Still monkeying with the jackscrew...trying to get it to turn more than half a turn.
    "Turns" out that this whole gear train is all tied together at one point and that shaft is siezed or something is broken.
    Here's a pic of the outer parts of the gear train. This shamozzle powers both tables and the knee...

    This is the geartrain on top of the X table that powers the feedscrew for the Y table movement...very ingenious actually...

    THIS is the bloody thing I've been fighting with for two days...
    Look up...waaay up. In this little pocket right up at the back top corner is the two bevel gears that drive the knee jackscrew, either power or by hand.
    The bevel gear right behind the top of the jackscrew is the culprit.
    There is a little dog clutch right behind it. Something is siezed up or broken way up in there. It turns easily for about 1/2 a turn then stops dead.
    Very tough place to get at.

    Russ
    I have tools I don't even know I own...

  • #2
    Russ could it be posible that the jackscrew is still engaged into the auto feed mech., or froze in that mode? One thing for sure, you got yerself a career!

    Comment


    • #3
      AK...Yes it is entirely possible. The actual bevel gear that turns the large bevel gear attached to the jackscrew only turns a half turn or so.
      There is a cluster of small gears up in there and I think two may be siezed.
      The water that ran down the back of the knee and dovetails probably got into the rear of the shafts as they exit out the back of the knee.
      I could easily take that gear out of commission and just use the hand crank for the knee but the cool factor would be way down then.
      I'd like to keep the power function as I hear a lot of people wish they had a power knee.
      Russ
      I have tools I don't even know I own...

      Comment


      • #4
        I saw a old tractor transmission once that water had gotten into it then frozen thawed and froze again,and again for quite a few years.
        Well we split the tranny pulled the axels and what we found was a shame,Ice is very destructive out of 12 normal gears 3 were ok the rest were crushed,broke, and Pulverised,Thats what I call a 7 or8" gear in at least 16 pieces even bent a shift fork.It was unbelievable the old guy that I was helping explained what happened,Oh and the case was not cracked at all.

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        • #5
          Just a brief update for you guys who secretly want to restore a rusted treasure that you will buy from hoffman!
          I've tried everything I can think of to loosen the two gears up inside the knee with zero success.
          I think I've partly sheared off a key in the one shaft that is REALLY siezed.
          So...the whole thing is coming apart. I didn't want to do this right away but it had to be done anyway.
          Have to take the spindle out so I can lift the knee completely off and get in behind it to knock out the siezed shafts.
          The good news...I have the spindle part way out. Can see the bearing surface for the front of the spindle. It looks like it came out of the factory except for one small rust stain..not even a pit.
          The spindle rides in a nice wide bronze bushing that is very easy to replace if it ever needed it. Yippee!
          Having to use a puller to tug the spindle out.
          Had to wedge the back part of the spindle up so nothing gets chewed up on the way out.
          I've just chickened out for now.
          The bull gear, dogs and shifter slide probably weigh 50 or 60 pounds and I have no way to hold them when the spindle pulls all the way out.
          Have to round up some help for this...damm...I hate having help but...
          The arbors I have seem to fit pretty snug...that's good!
          Also...finally cleaned off the spindle speed tag.
          Thing goes from 16 rpm to 384 rpm. Has 16 total spindle speeds.
          Haven't cleaned off the feed speed tags yet but it has a whack of feed speeds also.
          Russ (still covered in Kroil)
          I have tools I don't even know I own...

          Comment


          • #6
            The old Ohio #2

            Torker
            I used to live on a farm and when we did not have parts or owners manual and I was taking a piece of equipment apart we photographed the heck out of it labled parts made sketches etc, because days or a couple of weeks later putting it back together can be a MUCH bigger problem.

            Regards Graeme

            Comment


            • #7
              Graeme...Im doing this also...thanks gawd for digital cameras
              Waited for the missus to come home from work.
              We got the spindle out like nothing. It looks great and so do the bushings. Even the rear bushing is heavy duty. It has about 5" of bearing surface length and is in really good shape.
              Here comes the knee...

              Crap...I'm 4" short of lift.
              Look at this mess! Believe it or not there is two shafts buried in the rust. No wonder they wouldn't move.
              A bonus...the majority of the rust that was holding the knee is right in the middle towards the bottom...very little on the dovetails with the exception of the edge of the gib.

              Had to cheat to get it the rest of the way up. Shove boards in the web to take up slack, take the hook and chain off and use the shortest cleavises I could find...here is the beast...freed at last.

              Still, with all this, the only thing I can find wrong is the original chipped bevel gear for the knee powerfeed. I'm sure I'll find something ugly in the rusted gear cluster. One of the shafts is a tricky bit and this is were the trouble is originating from.
              We'll see!
              Russ
              I have tools I don't even know I own...

              Comment


              • #8
                There, the shafts are loose. Now comes the ugly part...going way up inside the knee. Grease up to the elbows, trying to uncouple the dog clutch for the knee and back out front to undo the dog clutch for the X feed.
                Man is this thing ugly to work on now that it's on the floor.
                Too bulky and heavy to get onto a bench. Oh well, I'll have to relearn how to stand on my head again
                Geez...the long weekend just vapourized. Was going to go 4 wheelin...Ooops!
                Russ (soon to be blacker that Toby's....)
                I have tools I don't even know I own...

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think your lathe is beginning to feel a bit of jealousy seeing you fondle that mill for three days and nights.
                  Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TECHSHOP
                    I think your lathe is beginning to feel a bit of jealousy seeing you fondle that mill for three days and nights.
                    You're right...it's pretty mad at me
                    Huge thunder storm yesterday. Knocked out the internet for near a day.
                    Here's the nasty little gear I have to repair.
                    Have the rest nearly ready for reassembly
                    I have tools I don't even know I own...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey Russ,that looks about like the crap I find,busted gear teeth,stipped splines the works,good thing we both know how to weld huh?

                      Go ahead and fix it,if you put the thing back together without making the knee feed work,chances are you'll be pulling it down again later.

                      What kind of bears does it have,bronze sleeves?
                      I just need one more tool,just one!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Darin, yes it has bronze bushings for the knee drive pinion etc.
                        The axle that this gear is pinned to froze up from the rust. Then people started cranking on the wheel to get the knee to move and bust the gear.
                        Almost have to have this gear as it "balances" the drive.
                        With only the hand crank gear in place the jackscrew bevel gear wants to rock which would lead to other problems.
                        Tricky little gear to reproduce without a shaper huh?
                        I have tools I don't even know I own...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Got it done..finally! Milled holes in the gear and the repair piece. Popped in a hi-tek piece of 1/8" 7018 welding rod for a pin, then brazed the new tooth on and shaped it with files.
                          Took a long time...I should have profiled the repair piece a lot more before brazing it on.
                          Before

                          After

                          Now I have to remove the mashed over setscrew that's jambed into the hole in the gear. The setscrew is completely mushroomed on the inside and is a buggered slot type screw that we all love to hate.
                          Russ
                          I have tools I don't even know I own...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Torker; Nice job on the gear.
                            Don\'t ask me to do a dam thing, I\'m retired.
                            http://home.earthlink.net/~kcprecision/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks Charlie! Whew, what an evening. Got the buggered setscrew removed and replaced. Had to true up the inside of the gear so it'd fit on the shaft.
                              Got ALL the rust removed from the dovetails that the knee rides on. Really lucked out there. The dovetails had so much old grease on them that they survived the rust very well. Only the center of the column got rusted and not that bad. Used acid and neutralized it with baking soda.
                              Found a broken setscrew boss for the one of the counter shafts way up under the knee.
                              The side was busted right out so I had to drill and tap a new hole way up in there (about 15").
                              Had to make drill and tap extensions....worked well.
                              Then I got the last remaining shaft unsiezed, now all the drivetrain fir the X, Y and knee all work.
                              Still a few hours of cleaning ugly old grease then the works is going back together.
                              I'm not crazy about the one adjustment screw at the bottom of the gib so I'll be picking you guys brains for ideas what to do to improve this setup.
                              Russ
                              I have tools I don't even know I own...

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