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The old OHIO #2...a few pics...innards

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  • torker
    replied
    Stuart...geez...good idea! Should have thought of that!
    Russ

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  • hornluv
    replied
    updating an old post

    Hey Russ,

    It's looking good. I'm thinking nobody is responding though because they don't realize it is an old post and they get tired of reading before the third page. I remembered the post and checked the date. Try putting your question, the answer to which I know not, in a new post.

    Stuart

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  • torker
    replied
    OK...then I'll give you an updated pic!
    New belt is waiting down at the bus station.....need some wire, some gear box lube and it's about ready to fire..NO...I'm not finished painting it yet!

    Russ

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  • torker
    replied
    Geez! Nobody here ever done this? Just wondering now ....how old is this mill....really! Are all the guys who know how to do this pushing daisies now
    Russ

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  • torker
    replied
    Hey all you "old iron" gurus...I have a question???? The pic shows the main spindle. Right in front of the big bull gear there is a split ring. It is positioned then tightened down with two socket head bolts. There is a plate on the side cover that is supposed to be removed to adjust the spindle tension with this split ring. There is also a huge nut on the back of the spindle that does the same thing (tension the spindle).
    Does anyone know how you are supposed to adjust this split ring to the proper tension?
    Thanks!

    Russ

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  • Guest's Avatar
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    Ohio Milling Machine

    Earlypearl on eBay has listed a manual for the 1925 version of the Ohio horizontal mill.
    David Brown 7-20-06

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  • torker
    replied
    Willy...I've been to Lumby actually. Nice little place.
    You may have met me on the road to Nakusp perhaps. I used to race out there for quite a few years.
    Ha...the White Knight site...good video but they spelled the name wrong also...lol!
    Shoot me your email and I'll send you a couple of better ones.
    Ya...too bad about the old lathe. I'd drag it home but I have absolutely run out of room also (9 vehicle "projects" will do that)
    Russ

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  • Willy
    replied
    Thank you very much for the offer Russ it's very tempting,but I couldn't do it justice right now I'm backlogged for at least a couple of years right now with overdue projects,nevermind the ever growing honeydew list.
    I'm really not that far up the road from you,in Lumby,east of Vernon.I remember seeing the Hairy Kanary on the highway on one of my road trips about 4 or 5 years ago can't remember exactly where.Wished I could have seen it run.Bumped into the video of it shortly after seeing it...http://www.whiteknight.ca/READERS%20RIDES%202002.htm still got it on the shop dvd player, every once in awhile I'll crank up the speakers and let it run,it's a good way to wake up the neighbours at 6:00 am on a Sunday morning!
    Last edited by Willy; 06-06-2006, 11:54 AM.

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  • torker
    replied
    Willy...I get the feeling that you aren't very far away from me! Locals are about the only ones who spell the name of my ol' hotrod correctly.
    Hmmm....this could be bad. You wouldn't have ummmm...a big ol' shed that needs a huge old turning lathe project would you? I know of one for about $500, he'll load it and I know a guy who can haul the little 6 or 7000 pound beauty.
    The lathe is just about perfect for a serious project....it's been sitting out in the rain and snow for 5 years. You'd love it....buy Kroil!
    Thanks for the link. Now it seems the Oesterlein Company is older than I thought.
    Their factory building is a historical site now (a dress/clothing mfg was in it later)and was built in the mid 1920's. Perhaps they where in a different place before that.
    Russ
    Last edited by torker; 06-06-2006, 08:21 AM.

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  • Willy
    replied
    Russ unfortunately I haven't been able to follow the entire Ohio #2 saga but I do know that you've been looking for info on your new baby and like you said it's next to non existant.So I don't know if this is relevent or not but I bumped into a thread about old machines on the "other site" tonight and thought I'd share it with you, it might be the little bread crumb that leads to some useful information.Can hardly wait to see all the milled "billet" aluminum on the Hairy Kanary. Best of luck with your project.It's a good thing we can't all come over and help we'd probably get in each others way.

    linkage:http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cg...1;t=001519;p=0 Bottom of the page.
    Last edited by Willy; 06-06-2006, 03:16 AM.

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  • torker
    replied
    A brief update.
    Finally got an arbor cleaned up...not perfect.
    A couple of problems.
    The arbor doesn't line up with the bushing for the overarm support. It's out about 1/8". I'm hoping the bushing is an eccentric cam type setup but didn't have the energy to screw with it too much.
    The bushing is held in with a threaded nut.
    Next...the arbor has .005 runnout... front and back. The keys that fit into the spindle have a bit of rust on them yet and I haven't fully checked out the taper..it could have a ding I missed.
    I'm thinking this is a shop made arbor.
    The draw bar hole has been tapped in cockeyed. The drawbar is cocked over by nearly 1" in 20". This also could contribute to the .005 runnout.
    The arbor doesn't seem bent as it did run true at three check points.
    Next...still trying to figure the oiling system
    I did find a big old ugly sump in the very bottom under the box that holds the change gears.
    It is GROSS! It's half full of really really old stinky rotten oil and bugs
    The hole that I though fed the middle sump doesn't.
    It's a hole for a drain. There is a pipe threaded into it from the bottom with a tap on it.
    To drain the top sump you open the tap and drain it into the bottom sump.
    I don't see any evidence of a pump.
    There are no return oil lines or any place to put them or anything.
    This doesn't mean there never was a pump but it sure doesn't look it to me.
    I still can't see how the table feed gears are oiled. I'm thinking they are splash fed from the main gears through a small opening but if they are then all the oil would be flung all over the top of the wooden storage box for the change gears. It doesn't look like this is the case. There is some oil on the wood but not that much.
    The handles, gear change levers etc. are all badly rusted on and I'm still waiting for the Kroil to loosen them. This all has to be done before I can remove the case cover for the table feed gear box.
    I have tto take pics of the mess around the big drive pulley.
    There might be a clutch on this machine.
    I got the cover the other day and it has a linkage to activate the clutch or brake or whatever the rusted mess is.
    There is a brake shoe type band on the drive spindle...I don't know if it's a clutch or a brake. Everything is rusted solid and I can't get it loose yet.
    Sorry for no pics but I just didn't have the ambition tonight.
    Need some help for sure with this brake/ clutch thing so maybe tomorrow.
    Russ
    PS...the spindle runnout could also be because I don't have the spindle adjusted right yet. It just dawned on me that it could be loose enough to be causing a problem.
    Last edited by torker; 06-06-2006, 12:58 AM.

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  • Evan
    replied
    This post is to work around the date stamp problem and will throw the post off the top of the list.

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  • torker
    replied
    Thanks Charlie! Whew, what an evening. Got the buggered setscrew removed and replaced. Had to true up the inside of the gear so it'd fit on the shaft.
    Got ALL the rust removed from the dovetails that the knee rides on. Really lucked out there. The dovetails had so much old grease on them that they survived the rust very well. Only the center of the column got rusted and not that bad. Used acid and neutralized it with baking soda.
    Found a broken setscrew boss for the one of the counter shafts way up under the knee.
    The side was busted right out so I had to drill and tap a new hole way up in there (about 15").
    Had to make drill and tap extensions....worked well.
    Then I got the last remaining shaft unsiezed, now all the drivetrain fir the X, Y and knee all work.
    Still a few hours of cleaning ugly old grease then the works is going back together.
    I'm not crazy about the one adjustment screw at the bottom of the gib so I'll be picking you guys brains for ideas what to do to improve this setup.
    Russ

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  • charlie coghill
    replied
    Torker; Nice job on the gear.

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  • torker
    replied
    Got it done..finally! Milled holes in the gear and the repair piece. Popped in a hi-tek piece of 1/8" 7018 welding rod for a pin, then brazed the new tooth on and shaped it with files.
    Took a long time...I should have profiled the repair piece a lot more before brazing it on.
    Before

    After

    Now I have to remove the mashed over setscrew that's jambed into the hole in the gear. The setscrew is completely mushroomed on the inside and is a buggered slot type screw that we all love to hate.
    Russ

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