1/2" ID ball bearing interference fit

[Doozer]

Hey, are you Dave Scalavi ? (sp)
or TrainMan 282 (I think) on youtube?
That dude is straight up, real deal.

-D

[oxford]

Rich Carlstedt (and others): Should I really trust a slip fit with Loctite retainer to hold up to heavy usage? And yes, the shafts are and will be 1018.

IMO, yes.

[Doozer]

... the journal box castings were also machined for a fairly tight fit on the bearing OD and since they are somewhat rectangular It would be difficult to chuck up eight of them individually to open up the bore. Perhaps someone has suggestions about how I could make that happen, perhaps by hand with emery cloth spinning with a wobble that would not matter?

Use a boring head in the mill maybe.

-D

[Rich Carlstedt]

T................................................. ......... But that brings up a question: How do I accurately measure the bearing D?..............
..............................Or can I assume that these "Made in USA" Nice bearings will all be close to an even 0.500 ID? The specs do state ID Tolerance -0.0005" to 0".

Rich Carlstedt (and others): Should I really trust a slip fit with Loctite retainer to hold up to heavy usage?

Loctite 641 , Bearing Retainer - Absolutely trust it as a retainer,,, as long as there is no oil on either component AND you let it cure !
Why do you need to measure the bore of the bearing . If you bought them (R8),, then look at the makers spec ( R8 = Bore 8/16= .500 +.000/-,003 )
A low grade R8 can be 3 tenths under , so if you make the shaft .4995 and use Loctite, no problem
If you do not intend to disassemble , use a shrink fit., Grind the axles to ..5002" and then heat the bearing by placing them on a incandescent lamp ( ie 69 watt)
When they reach 375 F , you will have about a thousandth growth on the .500 bore for a shrink fit ( work fast !)
If you want to really check the bore and have a TP Grinder, it is simple.
Chuck a piece of stock in the lathe and grind steps about 3/8" wide and make the diameter .5000 , then .4999 , and .4998 or what ever as a stepped stick
now you can check

Rich

PS 641 will really hold well, it is used commercially to hold precision bearings in tool grinders

[DaveD44]

Deltronic pins.
-Doozer

Doozer, maybe for you but not for me. I'd need 10 or so in increments of 0.0001, at $20 each! For one time use. I did make a go/no go peg at 3/4" diameter years ago on my cylindrical grinder using the sine plate and, if I remember right, a .001" lift under one end. That worked well until it stuck in a bore and got ruined when I pulled it out.

Hey, are you Dave Scalavi ? (sp)
or TrainMan 282 (I think) on youtube?
That dude is straight up, real deal.

-D

Not me! Dave is one of the real resources in live steam. I enjoy his posts and his videos as well, although we have had a disagreement or two over the years.

Use a boring head in the mill maybe.
-D

I can't do that very easily either. Here's a photo of the truck side frames and journal boxes. The nearest is inside up and shows the bearing bore; the next back is outside up and shows the journal box cover opening, and it is not in any way in line with the rear boss. Nor are the sides, since whoever did the machining didn't bother to make everything square. I've had to do a lot of adjusting to get the bearing bores to even face each other across the way! (Man, if only whoever he was had left all that alone. Take a look for example at the two bearing bores at the bottom, left and right. Even in this photo you can see that the bores aren't consistently in the same spot. The one on the right is visibly off center to the right.) In the rear is part of the assembly, sans wheels and a section at the bottom to keep the width correct (as does the cast iron bolster at top). BTW, I can, as someone suggested, add the wheels loosely to these dummy axles and do most of my fitting with that setup.

Loctite 641 , Bearing Retainer - Absolutely trust it as a retainer,,, as long as there is no oil on either component AND you let it cure !
Why do you need to measure the bore of the bearing . If you bought them (R8),, then look at the makers spec ( R8 = Bore 8/16= .500 +.000/-,003 )
A low grade R8 can be 3 tenths under , so if you make the shaft .4995 and use Loctite, no problem
If you do not intend to disassemble , use a shrink fit., Grind the axles to ..5002" and then heat the bearing by placing them on a incandescent lamp ( ie 69 watt)
When they reach 375 F , you will have about a thousandth growth on the .500 bore for a shrink fit ( work fast !)
If you want to really check the bore and have a TP Grinder, it is simple.
Chuck a piece of stock in the lathe and grind steps about 3/8" wide and make the diameter .5000 , then .4999 , and .4998 or what ever as a stepped stick
now you can check

Rich

PS 641 will really hold well, it is used commercially to hold precision bearings in tool grinders

I'm beginning to get the distinct impression that Loctite bearing retainer is the way to go and will give me a strong, lasting, bond. In any case, I have options that I hadn't worked out earlier before coming here. Thanks again!

[Fasturn]

Killer dude!
You are doing it right.
Bravo ! ! !
A cut above.

Deltronic pins.

-Doozer

-D

On your game mr Doozer. If you own a good mic, you can turn a piece of brass to make a gage. Go and maybe no go. You can turn steps too @ .0002 increments. Many laugh, but I do this lot. If you are a Doozer type- lathe man, you can make gages.

You just paper in the last .0002 - 0004 tenths.