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  • lugnut
    replied
    Well Sarge41 I appreciate your concern , but the deal is done, and what ever I done seam to work just fine. I bought some bicycle chain, measured it and made my sprockets to fit my chain and they work just fine. My project will only be used at maybe10 RPM. if it was a 12 or15 hundred RPM deal I would maybe be more concerned with geometry, but what I done is working just fine,(well maybe not to Black Forests specs, but it works great for. me .

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  • sarge41
    replied
    Lugnut: Bicycle chain is a little different from industrial chain. Not sure but I think that not even all bike chain is the same. Don't mix bike chain and industrial chain. Also, if you are thinking about making your own sprockets, be aware that the geometry in the bottom of the gullet of the sprocket is not just a radius, but a couple of radii. Good luck.
    Sarge41

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  • DDF47
    replied
    Sounds like tongue in cheek sarcasm to me. I doubt he’s being serious

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  • lugnut
    replied
    Originally posted by Black Forest View Post

    Excuse me Lugnut but that statement about slop is absolutely wrong. You build in clearance not slop. You build in versatility not slop. You build in adjustability. Got it!
    My gosh You are getting a little feisty lately. This the second time this week, you have gotten rough with someone on the forum. What do you call "chill pills" in German? what ever they are called you need to get some.

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  • mickeyf
    replied
    it was a cheap chain, $7 a chain rivet tool costs more.
    By gosh- you're right! I thought I got one once for maybe $4.95. But this (probably about as cheap as they get now) one includes a master link as well:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bike-Shop...ains/573588233

    To be fair, I couldn't find my $5 model and got a much nicer one for more money anyway.

    Roller looks good - I'm not one to laugh at anybody's welding.

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  • Black Forest
    replied
    Originally posted by lugnut View Post

    Every thing between us and them is slightly different. But if you build in enough slop, both will fit
    Excuse me Lugnut but that statement about slop is absolutely wrong. You build in clearance not slop. You build in versatility not slop. You build in adjustability. Got it!

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  • true temper
    replied
    Looks like garage door chain to me.

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  • lugnut
    replied
    Originally posted by David Powell View Post
    Bewarem Some chains are so similar to each other that you may be ledup the garden path. North American #40 has a slightly different size of roller than the British equivalent. Please do not ask how I know ! Regards David Powell.
    Every thing between us and them is slightly different. But if you build in enough slop, both will fit

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  • David Powell
    replied
    Bewarem Some chains are so similar to each other that you may be ledup the garden path. North American #40 has a slightly different size of roller than the British equivalent. Please do not ask how I know ! Regards David Powell.

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  • lugnut
    replied
    Mickeyf , it was a cheap chain, $7 a chain rivet tool costs more.

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  • mickeyf
    replied
    I am just now in the process of testing and tuning up the lifter for the drill press table I've thrown together... using a motor from a paper shredder and an old bicycle chain. You don't (didn't) need a master link at all. What you need is a chain rivet tool, to remove and replace individual links as needed to get to the correct length for your application. A bike shop, or Amazon, or a good hardware store will have one. May cost less than a chain, and now you have yet another tool to keep forever!

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  • lugnut
    replied
    Well today I finally got the slip roller working. It tested my patience a few times but I stuck it out and today I put it all together and I think it will do what I wanted it for. Don't laugh at my welding on the "T" handles, I don't weld but a couple times a year. I was able to layout and drill the sprockets to fit bicycle chain, and they work ok. I could not buy a master link for the chain I had, so I bought a whole new chain just to get the master link. Other than the chain, I was able to source all the rest from my parts and pieces that have saved.

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  • psomero
    replied
    https://www.usarollerchain.com/65-Ro...chain-10ft.htm

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  • lugnut
    replied
    Originally posted by reggie_obe View Post
    What diameter are the cylinders you're rolling and how many?
    Could the sheet be formed around am object of suitable size? How close to perfectly cylindrical does it need to be? Are endcaps of some sort going to close the cylinder ends?
    I have a bunch of rollers from some of the treadmills I have dismantled. They are 1.5" and some are 2". I plan on using 2 of the 1.5" for bottom drivers, and one 2" for the top adjustable roller. After rummaging in my metal pile, decided on using the bicycle chain iI have. For practice, I started making the 2 drive sprockets, with the aid of my DRO to lay out and drill holes to form the teeth, 13 of them. I love the way you can lay out a hole circle pattern with a DRO. Tomorrow. I will work on finishing the sprockets after I get back from town getting my COVID booster shot.

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  • Captain K
    replied
    I think you’ll find a roller won’t work that well on the light of material. As far as sprockets they’re too cheap to bother making in my opinion. Just bought 2 20 tooth #40 sprockets and weld on hubs for around $30 cad.

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