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  • #16
    Ok I was able to raise it higher
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.
    san jose, ca. usa

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    • #17
      This is what I have
      Attached Files
      san jose, ca. usa

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      • #18
        The holder on the right should clamp on to the nose of your spindle. And then one of the dial test indicators will mount into the dovetail of the end of the bar. With that you can locate the center.

        HERE IS A VIDEO SHOWING HOW TO USE THE PIECES YOU HAVE.

        EDITED- Finished watching the video and found that it was only concerned with finding an edge. Here's another that is focused on using the DTI in this style of holder for picking up the center of a bore.

        Indicating a hole - YouTube

        You'll note that with the body sitting vertical that one would need a mirror for checking the back side of the hole. This is why I prefer to hold the indicator with the dial facing up and the finger pointing down as I show in my previous post. Makes it a lot easier to read the face.
        Last edited by BCRider; 01-16-2022, 04:19 PM.
        Chilliwack BC, Canada

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        • #19
          So you have an Indicol and you have a boring head and you have vertical room. Good for you. Now the bore looks like it is about 25 mm in diameter, right? Use one of the little adapters to attach it to indicator dovetail and clamp its cylindrical part in the Indicol. Move parts around to find the best configuration for your hole diameter. Then clamp the Indicol on the spindle nose, machine should be in neutral. The existing bore may be big enough to accept a body of the indicator so you can go deeper. You need to indicate the bore at different heights to see if it is perpendicular to the bottom flange - this is very important. How deep is the bore by the way? Do you have a boring bar for that?

          If you never used boring head on this particular machine, try it first on a piece of scrap. Spindle bearings should be in good condition to produce a good result.

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          • #20
            Not pertinent, but gambler, maybe you can answer this.
            Having fettled a bunch of brit cars back in the day, so many castings had that text MOWOG on them. What's the meaning of mowog.

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            • #21
              Morris woolsely garage
              san jose, ca. usa

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              • #22
                Working on it right now
                Attached Files
                san jose, ca. usa

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                • #23
                  Gambler. At the height shown, is there sufficient engagement between the mill head and column? That seems like a lot vertical working clearance for a round-column mill/drill.

                  IIRC, there are two pinch bolts which are positioned one above the other that pass through the thin cast iron head and clamp the head to column. Does the column extend upward into the head far enough that the upper pinch bolt bears on the column when tightened?

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                  • #24
                    I would suggest you rotate the indicator body so it is closer to vertical position. This way you can drop the indicator body into the bore to reach deeper. You still did not tell us how deep is the bore.

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                    • #25
                      I don't want to be negative, but if that casting is worth some $$$, I would probably bring it to a shop with a larger and more rigid machine.

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                      • #26
                        NOTE: You should use the shortest and stoutest boring bar you have ** if you characterize the mill as "flimsy".

                        Dan
                        ** That's assuming that the boring bar is long enough to do the trick.
                        At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

                        Location: SF East Bay.

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                        • #27
                          hi thanks again guys. come to my shop and hang. I promise not to pick your brains. the bushing is about 2,75 inches long. it is a pain in the ass to indicate it. I'm sure a machinist could do it in a few minutes but it took me 30 .I made the first cut but ran out of boring bar. tomorrow I will continue. I will update you then. I used several of your tricks to get me close. I don't want to sub the job out, I rebuild this transmission regularly.
                          san jose, ca. usa

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                          • #28
                            I'll be interested to hear that it worked perfectly.

                            At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

                            Location: SF East Bay.

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                            • #29
                              You've probably finished the job by now, but would it have been possible to bolt the housing to the faceplate of a lathe and bore it that way?

                              Ian
                              All of the gear, no idea...

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by I make chips View Post
                                Not pertinent, but gambler, maybe you can answer this.
                                Having fettled a bunch of brit cars back in the day, so many castings had that text MOWOG on them. What's the meaning of mowog.
                                https://mossmotoring.com/mowog-mystery-solved/
                                Nev.

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