Been Noticing Something About My Chuck

[BCRider]

Mine is like the second one pictured......

JL................

Then I'm guessing that you'd notice if the halves started to separate....

The back cover coming loose was my best guess. But the split format you have tosses that out the window. I'll be interesting to see what you find.

[J Tiers]

Being smart, I constantly find that I know more "the factory" on many occasions.

-Doozer

"The factory" often suggests things just because they have always done it that way, or sometimes it is a WAG by the engineers, which, if it does no actual harm, is let to stand.

I know that I found utter BS in some of our manuals, and it was hard as heck to get that changed, even though I had the data to show why.

[JoeLee]

Then I'm guessing that you'd notice if the halves started to separate....

The back cover coming loose was my best guess. But the split format you have tosses that out the window. I'll be interesting to see what you find.

WOW, if that were to happen and I didn't notice than I better throw in the towel and take up knitting.
Next to impossible for that to happen anyway as the back of the chuck bolts to the body and the bolts that hold the chuck to the back plate go through the chuck from the jaw side.
Not to mention how difficult it was to separate the two halves of the chuck when I last took it apart.

JL...................

[JRouche]

What I've been noticing for about a year is it is taking more and more force to open the chuck to remove a part than I applied to close it.
Any ideas ??

JL...............

I like the lathe, one of my wants


Chuck and jaw issue? Dunno... Some chucks get "bell mouthed". You have a nice chuck so that is out of the question. JR

[JoeLee]

I got set up to remove the chuck this afternoon. Put my 1 3/8" safety bar in the chuck and into the spindle. Snugged it down and cracked it loose a few times trying all three pinions. It felt normal. It broke with about the same amount of force that I applied when tightening it. So I left it for about half hour and went for lunch. Came back and went to crack it loose and the key wouldn't budge.
I was about ready to get my 1/2" breaker bar. With a little more force it broke loose. Strange after setting for a while it was so hard to open. Now I'm really curious about what's going on inside.
I've had instances like this in the past when the part got hot from turning, especially CF rounds and chalked it up as expansion.

JL....................

[danlb]

There is a chance that you have a chip of soft aluminum smeared on mating surfaces. It can weld together under pressure and take a bit of force to break free.

Dan

[JoeLee]

There is a chance that you have a chip of soft aluminum smeared on mating surfaces. It can weld together under pressure and take a bit of force to break free.

Dan

That's a good possibility but it would have to be on the jaw / scroll side. I'll know tomorrow when I take the jaws out for a closer inspection.

JL...........

[sarge41]

I would never use grease in a chuck. Oil, yes, frequent cleaning yes. Grease no, never, grease is nortorious for holding chips.

Sarge41

[J Tiers]

I would never use grease in a chuck. Oil, yes, frequent cleaning yes. Grease no, never, grease is nortorious for holding chips.

Sarge41

You put it where the chips really do not go. That would be on the pinion side of the scroll, not the jaw side.

And you do not use a lot.

So either you run the chucks dry, you use a dry lube, or you use oil. Running them dry has obvious issues. A dry lube could work, if desired. Oil picks up chips as well, but if you do not use much it won't be too bad.

I grease the backside, oil the front of the scroll, and take apart chucks on a fairly regular basis to clean them. In my experience, the chips will pack in the scroll and jaw teeth regardless of the lube or lack of lube.

[JoeLee]

You put it where the chips really do not go. That would be on the pinion side of the scroll, not the jaw side.

And you do not use a lot.

So either you run the chucks dry, you use a dry lube, or you use oil. Running them dry has obvious issues. A dry lube could work, if desired. Oil picks up chips as well, but if you do not use much it won't be too bad.

I grease the backside, oil the front of the scroll, and take apart chucks on a fairly regular basis to clean them. In my experience, the chips will pack in the scroll and jaw teeth regardless of the lube or lack of lube.

Even more so if you boring a through hole as the chips get pushed out and are slung into the jaw grooves.
But I can't see not using any lube on the scroll side as it would promote premature wear. Would you not put oil in your lathe apron ?

JL.............

[JoeLee]

Took the jaws out this morning. Not much swarf in there or grease.



After cleaning. I don't know why the third tooth has a bigger rub mark than the others but If I remember correctly it was like that last time I took them out.



The other side which is the opening side of the teeth look to have the same amount of wear less the larger rub mark on the one tooth.



Tomorrow I'll open it up.

JL...............

[nickel-city-fab]

One area that used to make my old 3-jaw tight was the interface between the scroll and the "hub" of the chuck. It's a very close fit, but I imagine that oil laden with small metal particles would make it stiff. I had to clean mine out monthly with solvent and rag.

[old mart]

Taking the jaws out is the first stage, no take the chuck completely to bits, its not rocket science.

[Doozer]

Took the jaws out this morning. Not much swarf in there or grease.



JL...............

Jaw #5 has at least two bits of swarf.
I see some in jaw #4 and jaw #6 as well.
That will make it jam like a lead slug in a meat grinder.
Friends don't let friends grease their chucks.
My favorite is STP motor honey or the like.
Lucas makes some too.
-D

[Doozer]

Taking the jaws out is the first stage, no take the chuck completely to bits, its not rocket science.

Admitting you have a problem is the first stage.

-D