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  • Cheapo slitting saw

    Yall might know this but I needed a cheap slitting saw awhile back to reach in 1-1/4 and I was too tight to go pro. So I bought a few of these thin cheap carbide saws for 2 bucks each and made an arbor. So far it hasn't failed me yet! Just cut that steel arbor thing in the picture.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    $2? I'm going to take a wild guess that you bought those some time ago. They are now $6.49 (+ "processing" & shipping) at Menards. 2 pack on eBay for $17. Where did you get yours?

    And the teeth survived! You did run it pretty slowly, I imagine.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post
      $2? I'm going to take a wild guess that you bought those some time ago. They are now $6.49 (+ "processing" & shipping) at Menards. 2 pack on eBay for $17. Where did you get yours?

      And the teeth survived! You did run it pretty slowly, I imagine.
      Yes about a year ago, and I think it was the ReStore here, so always cheap there. I see six for $23 on the bay but 24 teeth. Ran it today at 290rpm for steel. Originally did it for aluminum which it just eats up at any RPM. I actually think faster next time for steel but slow feed. Plenty of oil as well. Still hard to beat at 4 bucks each on the bay. Probably can find the 36 tooth with some digging.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/16176760021...EAAOSwDNdVqshQ

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      • #4
        Run slowly on steel.
        Use an air blast rather than oil, as the oil can catch the chips and cause a jam.
        Yeah, aluminium cuts fine faster, but still use an air blast to clear the chips.

        Cheers
        Roger

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        • #5
          Lots of rake for steel. Maybe grind teeth for a few degrees rake? Look at the way metal cutting chop saw blades are ground.

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          • #6
            Had forgotten about the Habitat Restore as a DIY tool source, the one here was significantly cheaper than the big box
            and had high quality brands of industrial construction tooling when I used them ~10 yrs ago and they are still around.
            Steve

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            • #7
              I thought of using those once for a deep slot I had to cut, but didn't like the idea of a 5/8" arbor and no key.
              Didn't didn't want to chance using one of my good slitting saw arbors. It was too thick anyway.
              Not not much of a choice in blade thickness when it comes to woodworking blades.

              JL.......

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              • #8
                I think it was here a number of years ago that I got the idea of using one of these.
                I made the one below about 4 years ago and have used it very successfully on aluminum a number of times but have always felt a little squeamish about trying it on steel, but yeah the saw blades are cheap so perhaps I'll give them a whirl next time I need a wide slot in steel. I realize the geometry of the teeth are not what they should be but the cost of admission is right.



                Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                Location: British Columbia

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                  [snip]
                  It was too thick anyway.
                  Not not much of a choice in blade thickness when it comes to woodworking blades.
                  The one V-W-B used was 0.055 & the eBay one that he posted the link to is 0.049. Not your ordinary w-w saw blade.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Willy View Post
                    [snip]

                    ...
                    Lotta' teeth on that one. Seeing the tool holders in the background, it occurred to me that one could rough most of a dove tail with a slitting saw.

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                    • #11
                      I think the positive rake geometry is just fine for steel.
                      I would not change a thing. Not sure why you think it needs to be changed.
                      Just run them in the hundreds of RPM range, not thousands of RPM range
                      and they should cut fine, Just like a slitting saw.

                      -Doozer
                      DZER

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                      • #12
                        My saw is cutting a .075 slot. The body is pretty thin so a big of wobble up and down. It is held on the arbor by friction alone, didn't want to key or pin it for the test mode in case it did grab or lock up. But so far with steel or alum it has not slipped so will stick with friction. With the teeth wider than the saw body there has been no build up of chips. Still damn sharp as well. I think I will get a few 4-3/8 blades and try those as well. Cheap way to cut a clean deep slot!

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                        • #13
                          If the carbide teeth are thicker than the disc then you better hope that what your slitting doesn't close up on the blade or you'll have to chew your way out.

                          I've had that happen several times with the small slitting saws and when I pull the saw out the part snaps shut. You don't notice it when cutting because those little saws are ground so smoothly and, slightly hollow ground.

                          JL.............

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                          • #14
                            I tried it too worked good on aluminum, steel worked good till it didn’t. Click image for larger version

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by true temper View Post
                              I tried it too worked good on aluminum, steel worked good till it didn’t. Click image for larger version

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                              What was the cause of blade failure ? The part closed up on it?
                              One third of that blade is destroyed.

                              JL..............

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