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Appearance is not everything. Quite a few ball bearings I have looked at had finishes in the grooves that "looked" rough and scratched, but the bearings were quite good in operation. So obviously the finish was a lot smoother than it appeared to be!
Appearance is everything actually. If when light is put on a surface and you see deviations albeit small the surface is not flat and smooth. Maybe you can't feel the ridges with your finger but that isn't really a good test in this application. In my opinion at least. Some of you fellas that are lots smarter than me might disagree maybe but in my Cowboy logic I think it is true. Not a valid comparison between ball bearings and a flat surface in my book. My take on flat and smooth on compressors comes from hands on experience with many vane and screw compressors used in my business in Texas. I also don't think a bore that is turned only and not honed will be OK in this application. At least it won't be efficient.
I ain't watchin your videos Finn.
Location: The Black Forest in Germany
How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!
I have now started to make a lamellar air compressor.
As someone will eventually ask: Why? The answer is simple: Because I want to MAKE it, not to BUY it. I am also oddly obsessed to rotating machinery.
It will most probably become a semi failed unit but still there will be a lot to learn during making it.
Very cool!! I like this project... Ill keep watching in silence
Oh? The vids and animation, no problem. Your post, your content. If someone choses not to learn or watch it that would be their loss, not yours. (you didnt dip into my pocket for loose change while I was watching did you JR
I also don't think a bore that is turned only and not honed will be OK in this application. At least it won't be efficient.
I think it depends on the material of the lamelles. If the lamelles are made out of something relatively soft material like teflon, it would probably not be a good idea to rub them against anything rougher than a mirror surface.
In this appliucation, however, the lamelles are made out of some relatively hard material. Definitely harder than the cylinder. There will be oil which futher enhances the sealing. I hope it squirts out more air than oil 😆
I will be the first person to admit my mistake and bend over to hone that "darn" cylinder when it comes to that. The construction allows it to be done at a later time if need be.
If I would try to get cheese on top of my sandwiches with my videos, that might offend me. However, I am not trying to be popular or earn money here. I try to be myself with all my mistakes and ever so strange ideas. Most importantly I try to be honest. Internet is alrteady bloated with fake things and I try be a tad different. I actually appreciate Your honesty.
How to make six grooves 3 millimetres wide and 15 millimetres deep?
You could try to make those with an endmill but since the grooves are 100 millimetres long that would be a major PITA to pull through.
The obvious answer is, of course, the humble slitting saw.
Traditionally I have had no luck whatsoever with those and usually I end up collecting slitting saw shrapnel from my floor.
It will be very exiting to see what is the outcome this time.
This time it will be the lamelles for the compressor.
There are 6 of them and they are made out of Uddeholm Vanadis 4 tool steel.
This steel is quite tough to machine and there are also some challenges with setups.
I will also get a stopping reminder why safety goggles are a must.
Air enters and exits the compressor through holes in the cylinder walls.
I machine flats on cylinder sides and holes for air flow.
Then I put the thing temporarily together and test it.
Milling a deep pocket in steel can be an ordeal in a manual machine especially if the steel is tough.
I present a method of making a deep pocket that does not require chip removal by high pressure flood coolant.
In this video I am using:
- Schaublin SV-51 (1955) Milling machine
- Solberga (1975) Drill press
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