Any compound slide dials that have a zeroing feature?

[Randy]

Chris, it just occurred to me, something I've done for a temporary reference mark is the good ol' sharpie. Wipe it off to re-set.

[Glug]

Maybe even better than futzing with the dial: Have you tried using a mag base dial indicator to track the location of the compound?

[Mr Fixit]

Hi Group,

All great suggestions. I didn't make it into the shop today, family (grandkids) showed up so the day was devoted to that vs the shop.

I recall that the inner dial does not have any setscrew like the cross slide does. I too have put slotted screws in the cross slide to zero. I'll take a look at the collier again and see what I can do to the star knob to modify. I just wasn't sure this was a one off, or lathes came this way, now I know this is a one off for sure.

TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris

[Paul Alciatore]

That is obviously not a SB OEM knob and scale. But I can't think anyone would make such a nice looking knob and scale that was not settable to zero it.

The first thing I would do would be to soak it in penetrating oil and come back the next day and see if the scale will rotate while you hold that fancy knob.

If that does not work, then disassemble it, probably by unscrewing that nut in your photo, and see just how things work. I would bet that it can be reassembled with some light oil and care in tightening things to have an adjustable scale.

[BCRider]

How many years and models did SB produce the 9 for? It might well be that a non adjustable index was how it came at some point. The trick now will be what it takes to turn it into an adjustable version. Because having the ability to zero it during a fairly wide range of compound based operations has been a pretty handy feature. I know I would not want to be without that feature.

[SLK001]

It could be something simple like shimming the knob away from the dial. The dial is most likely being held in place by friction only from the knob pressure. This setup was someone's effort to give himself "big dials" on the 9" compound. Normally, the 9" compound had dials about the same size as the cross-slide dials.

[J Tiers]

Or it may be that the dial is part of the "stackup" for preventing backlash, and is too tight.

The Logan was like that, so I bored out the dial (I only did the crosslide, but could have done both), and made an extended nut to fit the bored out dial and let it turn without affecting the backlash adjustment.

[strokersix]

Chris, it just occurred to me, something I've done for a temporary reference mark is the good ol' sharpie. Wipe it off to re-set.

^^this

Sharpie works great for this sort of thing. I do simple layouts on my steel top roll around and mark stuff, write down numbers, etc. on my machines all the time.

[oxford]

^^this

Sharpie works great for this sort of thing. I do simple layouts on my steel top roll around and mark stuff, write down numbers, etc. on my machines all the time.

I use the top of my mill vise as a “dry erase board” with a sharpie all the time.

[J Tiers]

Chris, it just occurred to me, something I've done for a temporary reference mark is the good ol' sharpie. Wipe it off to re-set.

That works, but you end up doing arithmetic in your head. I find that can lead to errors just when you don't want them, so I do like setting to zero when I need it right.

[BCRider]

It could be something simple like shimming the knob away from the dial. The dial is most likely being held in place by friction only from the knob pressure. This setup was someone's effort to give himself "big dials" on the 9" compound. Normally, the 9" compound had dials about the same size as the cross-slide dials.

If that is the situation here (I saw a few different size dial collars in my image searching on SB9 compounds) then it still doesn't explain the lack of a locking screw.

Or perhaps there's an O ring drag tensioner? If so it might just be gummed up? Or the other option I like is the stack up isn't done correctly and it's just pinched.

Regardless though, we're all machinists here. This is very much a correctible situation. All shall be revealed when Mr Fixit pulls the compound apart and analyzes the parts.

[J Tiers]

The Rivett has no screw in the dial, but is resettable. It has a similar looking (knurled, though) screw in the end of the shaft, with a point on the tip. The point forces outward a small "shoe" set in the shaft to lock the dial.

Much "cleaner", and no tools needed to set.

[old mart]

The pictures of the dial and knob look to me suspiciously like they are one piece of metal. I am going on the matching nickel plating. Mr Fixit could clarify this.

[Mr Fixit]

Hi Guys,

Haven't been out into the shop tonight but since there are questions, I went and took the dial apart before turning in for the night.. It looks like it has been made for a couple of reasons. The first is it is all one piece, the numbering on the dial are not very straight in line. There was a set screw that I did not look for or see that held the reference mark ring for the dial mounted on top of the original reference mark dial half. So It looks like it was a custom dial and all I need to do is find or make a number dial and hand wheel to use it like original. At least that's the way I see it, What say you??



TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris

[rdfeil]

I say you are correct. Now another option may be to part the number collar from the knob. Add a setscrew to the number collar and figure a way to attach the knob without binding the collar and you would be good to go at almost no cost. You already have a lathe to part the collar with 😂.