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Stihl 026 Chainsaw hard to crank - retrofit compression relief valve?

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  • #16
    I have an MS440 Magnum. It is impossible to start without removing the air filter and priming with a squirt of fuel into the carb. Once it's been started and run for a while, it restarts no problem.
    It's all mind over matter.
    If you don't mind, it don't matter.

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    • #17
      I might just use some spray-in starting fluid (ether). But 2 cycle fuel mix might be safer.
      http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
      Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
      USA Maryland 21030

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      • #18
        Originally posted by PStechPaul View Post
        I might just use some spray-in starting fluid (ether). But 2 cycle fuel mix might be safer.
        For the little bit needed, straight gasoline would be preferable to starting fluid. You would only need 1/4 teaspoon of it and there should be plenty of residual oil on the bearings that that tiny amount wouldn't wash it all out. I have a pump "oiler' that works good for squirting in a little gasoline as a starting aid for those engines that are only used occasionally.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by MrWhoopee View Post
          I have an MS440 Magnum. It is impossible to start without removing the air filter and priming with a squirt of fuel into the carb. Once it's been started and run for a while, it restarts no problem.
          This is obviously an issue that should not exist and is usually caused by a carburetor that is allowing the fuel to drain back into the tank when the saw is idle for extended periods.
          There are a number of causes for this issue, loose metering chamber screws, minute pin holes in the metering chamber diaphragm, debris on the metering chamber needle and seat, cracked or hardened fuel lines are some of the more common causes.
          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

          Location: British Columbia

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Willy View Post

            This is obviously an issue that should not exist and is usually caused by a carburetor that is allowing the fuel to drain back into the tank when the saw is idle for extended periods.
            There are a number of causes for this issue, loose metering chamber screws, minute pin holes in the metering chamber diaphragm, debris on the metering chamber needle and seat, cracked or hardened fuel lines are some of the more common causes.
            No doubt. I got this saw used and it has always been problematic. It is my Big Dog and only gets used when my Redmax G5300 isn't up to the job, which is rare. That one starts by the third pull every time. I've been loathe to dig into the 440. For something that is so simple in theory, there are many fine details to be looked into.

            edit: Thanks for the reminder. I just ordered a new carb, fuel lines, filter, etc.
            Last edited by MrWhoopee; 01-28-2022, 12:18 PM.
            It's all mind over matter.
            If you don't mind, it don't matter.

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            • #21
              I can’t pull start anything anymore, perhaps start with a drill or impact wrench?
              mark

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              • #22
                You could build something to help
                 
                Helder Ferreira
                Setubal, Portugal

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Noitoen View Post
                  You could build something to help
                  LOL lets just hope that "front hold" holds extremely well or "Gimpy gramps" is going to get a whole lot gimpier... and most likely extremely disfigured lol

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post

                    LOL lets just hope that "front hold" holds extremely well or "Gimpy gramps" is going to get a whole lot gimpier... and most likely extremely disfigured lol
                    It's the idea that counts. Could't find a video I saw long ago of a lady starting a lawn mower with a pedal made out of a 4 foot long board
                    Helder Ferreira
                    Setubal, Portugal

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by boslab View Post
                      I can’t pull start anything anymore, perhaps start with a drill or impact wrench?
                      mark
                      So the question comes up, if you can’t pull start the chainsaw are you really able to safely control the saw once it’s started and in use?

                      Leaf blower may be different but a chainsaw can get ugly fast.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by A.K. Boomer View Post

                        LOL lets just hope that "front hold" holds extremely well or "Gimpy gramps" is going to get a whole lot gimpier... and most likely extremely disfigured lol
                        First time that I've seen a kick start chainsaw, but hey if it works it's golden.
                        But yes much as you say you want to make sure that the setup is secure, you don't want that getting lose when it's revved up, never mind loosing your balance and doing a lip stand on the bar.

                        But I like the thinking out of the box concept.
                        Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                        Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                        Location: British Columbia

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                        • #27
                          Paul, with a small saw like the 026 you should be able to push start it fairly easily.



                          I have a decomp valve on my ms360 but it never needs it. I can feel the difference it does make though, so you should give it a try.

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                          • #28
                            I have a Stihl MS211 bought new several years ago. The first few times I used it I loved it; cranked easy, fired up right away. etc. Then after a couple years of sporadic use, and after a long idle period, it became almost impossible to pull when first trying to start it. But once started and warmed up, it pulled with normal effort.
                            What I noticed was if I removed the spark plug, pumped it several times to clear a flooded condition, then put the plug back in, I could then start it easily enough. The problem is what's called a hydro or hydraulic lock, due to too much raw fuel in the cylinder. Doesn't have to be a complete hydrolock to make it so hard to pull that you can't turn it fast enough to start it.

                            It can be cleared WITHOUT removing the plug, if you hold the throttle open (CHOKE OFF!!!) and pull vigorously numerous times.
                            Lots of YT videos out there that address the issue. Here's one good one (happens to be the Stihl 026):
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwz2S_S0Rg
                            Last edited by lynnl; 01-28-2022, 11:04 PM.
                            Lynn (Huntsville, AL)

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                            • #29
                              ^^^^^^ I’m not saying my Echo doesn’t have an issue with it but it’s about the same thing as above. Do the “procedure” and it starts right up. Don’t do it and nothing but flared tempers.

                              FWIW, the”procedure” on that saw is

                              Choke on, pull cord until it “catches” once and sounds like it want to start. Usually 2-3 pulls.

                              Then take choke off pull the trigger 3-4 times and then lock the throttle wide open.

                              It will then fire off on first pull.

                              After started and warmed up, no trouble starting.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by lynnl View Post
                                I have a Stihl MS211 bought new several years ago. The first few times I used it I loved it; cranked easy, fired up right away. etc. Then after a couple years of sporadic use, and after a long idle period, it became almost impossible to pull when first trying to start it. But once started and warmed up, it pulled with normal effort.
                                What I noticed was if I removed the spark plug, pumped it several times to clear a flooded condition, then put the plug back in, I could then start it easily enough. The problem is what's called a hydro or hydraulic lock, due to too much raw fuel in the cylinder. Doesn't have to be a complete hydrolock to make it so hard to pull that you can't turn it fast enough to start it.

                                It can be cleared WITHOUT removing the plug, if you hold the throttle open (CHOKE OFF!!!) and pull vigorously numerous times.
                                Lots of YT videos out there that address the issue. Here's one good one (happens to be the Stihl 026):
                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwz2S_S0Rg
                                hmm. I got an ms291 a few years back. since the day I bought it, everytime I cold start (hasn't been run in 24+ hours). The first & second pull feel awefull & take a lot of strength. then I flip the switch up to start, almost always starts first pull, never more than 3. and if its hot, it starts half way through the first pull. Its always confused me, but I've never looked into it.

                                kinda sounds like this hydrolock you describe, doesn't it? is that normal on a new saw?
                                "it is no measure of mental health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society." -- krishnamurti
                                "look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -- albert einstien
                                "any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."

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