Brian builds a Corliss

[sid pileski]

Can someone tell me where I might be able to get a set of plans for a model Corliss steam engine? I have a copy of the JDWDS plans but it is too big. 15" flywheel and the whole thing is almost 3 feet long. I was thinking of trying one as a new project once I get my shop cleaned up and rearranged and a new lathe installed whenever that happens. It is on order.

Sure. Go over to:

https://www.modelenginemaker.com/

Search the plans section, I think you will find the files in there.
You will also find plenty of successful builds an build logs for it

Sid

[sid pileski]

This is a very nasty picture of the levers and valve shafts cross drilled and pinned. Guarantee no slippage now. The drills are 0.040" diameter-they will be replaced with 0.039" diameter shafts, cut to length and then silver soldered as a final operation.

Brian, the pins should be sufficient.
Don’t muck them up further trying to silver solder them!

[J Tiers]

There's always JB Weld!

(he says, ducking)

Taper pins should be fine. Some loctite should hold them in place and is removable if they are, as it seems, straight non-tapered pins..

[sid pileski]

There's always JB Weld!

(he says, ducking)

Taper pins should be fine. Some loctite should hold them in place and is removable if they are, as it seems, straight non-tapered pins..

Come on Tiers, I was confessing my sin!

Sid

[Ringo]

What about roll pins?

[brian Rupnow]

I never had it in mind to use pins as a final solution. There are two things going on here. First thing is to actually get things pinned in the proper rotational position---and this has to be done when everything is correctly assembled. Second thing is once correct rotational position has been locked in by the cross-drilling and pins is to remove each pinned assembly one at a time and silver solder the levers to the shafts.

[sid pileski]

I never had it in mind to use pins as a final solution. There are two things going on here. First thing is to actually get things pinned in the proper rotational position---and this has to be done when everything is correctly assembled. Second thing is once correct rotational position has been locked in by the cross-drilling and pins is to remove each pinned assembly one at a time and silver solder the levers to the shafts.

I'm lost as to why your so hell bent to solder them?
The pins (I like the roll pins) should be more than sufficient.
And, no offence but, your silver soldering........ well, just pin it.

Your CAD model should be able to tell you where the arms should be in relation to the valve flat.

Sid

[J Tiers]

Those adjustable links would come in handy........ just sayin......

[brian Rupnow]

This is my third and final video of the Corliss engine I have built. This was not my design, but was (I think) designed by someone from Namibia. Some of the smaller items were redesigned to suit me and my methods of machining and fabrication. This is the first rotary valve engine that I have built, and yes, it is more complex than a standard slide-valve steam engine. Now that all of the machining and test running is finished, I will probably clean the engine up, paint it, and build a nice wooden base for it. Thank you to all who have followed my build on the model engine internet forums.---Brian rupnow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjpJaL1PMtY

[Ringo]

Brian, that is a wonderful build. A great Home Shop Machinist build.
Very nice

[Jim Stewart]

Fascinating to see it run - all the levers and rods.

-js

[Jon Heron]

Good job Brian!
Very interesting engine.
Cheers,
Jon

[olf20]

Look like you got her tuned pretty well. What is the lowest PSI
it will run at?? Great job!
olf20 / Bob

[brian Rupnow]

I've learned a few new things and had to dig deep into the things I already knew for this one. It is a nice engine, it did have me stumped a couple of times, and it is very particular about it's valve timing. It has filled up 2 1/2 months of cold miserable winter, and given me something interesting to do. I'm very happy that it ended up being a good runner.--Right now the lowest psi that it will operate on is about 15 psi. If I run it for a few hours, that will probably drop to about 7 or 8 psi -----Brian

[DrMike]

Now that you have a couple of successful rotary valves under your belt,
will you revisit your Trevithick Engine and replace the slide valve with a proper rotary valve?