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Best way to remove concrete?

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  • Best way to remove concrete?

    Ok, now that Ive got the I-beam situation under control, I have another question.
    The Acorn welding table i bought was located in the floor of a shop. It is 5' x 5' and 5" thick. There is concrete stuck all over the underside and to the sides. I was going to use an air chisel to knock it off, but though someone may have a better idea...ie hit it with Canadian meatloaf 3 times and it will run away.

  • #2
    Your idea on using a chipping hammer is a good one especially if it has any thickness. If it is thin you can use a masonry grinding disc available at Home Depot or Lowes and grind the concrete away. I makes a lot of dust so wear a respirator. I have used them to grind concrete slabs that have minor raised section prior to putting down new flooring. Muriatic (spelled wrong)acid will also eat the concrete but it is messy to use.

    Whatever you use wear safety equipment so you get to use the new shop.

    Hope this helps.

    Joe

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    • #3
      Does that mean Muriatic acid spelled right won't work?
      Jim H.

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      • #4
        Its THICK!
        We picked up 6 of these welding tables for $500. One is not too bad as far as the concrete goes, the other 5 have 3-4 inches on the underside. THese tables are cast iron with 1 1/2" square holes all over. The underside is webbed (about 1" high webs) which i am sure will make the concrete bond really well.
        Since these were in the floor, they are in really nice condition, none of the 6 have so much as a chip or notch from an errant grinder.

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        • #5
          Think I would wet it to the point of soaking and go after it with the chipping hammer. This will hold down the dust.

          The muriatic acid attack the lime in the concrete and will weaken it. It won't completely remove it. It is uused to clean the bricks on houses to remove the mortor. The 1" web will complicate the removal of the concrete.

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          • #6
            How about using a torch? I know that when I was welding with an acetylene torch close to concrete, the concrete expanded and popped. You can take a torch and make it flake off the iron, but watch for flying concrete and use eye protection because it really flies! Muriatic acid should get the residue.

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            • #7
              See if you can drill some holes in the concrete and insert some close fitting wooden dowels and then wet them. When the wood expands it should pop off big hunks of concrete.Remember the older the concrete the harder it is and the tougher it is to remove.

              NEVER use muriac acid in the same room you have precision tools. Just the fumes will rust any exposed steel surfaces.

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              • #8
                Sean

                In the abscence of my sister's meatloaf, try a small electric rotary hammer and a carbide chisel - be careful of the cast iron though! Guys that work with granite drill holes, score a line and pound wedges in - this splits the granite in half.

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                • #9
                  Dave,

                  Does your sister have any other favorite dishes. Is she a specialist in meatloaf or does her cuisine offer other treats. Is there a cookbook available?

                  Oscar
                  O

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                  • #10
                    I seem to recall the literature for Kano Kroil stating that it was helpful in removing dried concrete from tools. Worth a try.

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                    • #11
                      Oscar
                      No, she can also burn water...
                      Safest way to eat in her house is "take out".

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                      • #12
                        I am wondering if the concrete is there for a reason or not. Having that extra mass may be an advantage. If it is on the underside and not affecting its use I think I'd leave it alone. That mass may help keep the surface from overheating and warping. That is just my two cents (and over priced at that!) Of course if it saves you some needless labor maybe it is under priced. A day or two of chipping concrete it probably worth at least a case of beer.
                        Spence

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                        • #13
                          thanks for all the replies.

                          The tables were built into a floor, apparently dropped in while the concrete was wet leaving the undersides full of concrete. I think this is the 'good' 4000lb concrete based on the shop is was in (ship building shop.)
                          I am thinking of using an air chisel to remove what i can and then drilling holes in whatever is left and pouring the muriatic acid in. These things are really full of concrete...the guy that delivered them figures they weigh between 3000-4000 lbs each (the tables are listed as only weighing about 2000lbs)
                          I would like to get most of the concrete off, because it is blocking the square holes in the top. I shoudl really post a pic.
                          thanks
                          Sean

                          OH, Spence, I will buy you a keg of beer for each plate you clean if you are so inclined...thats 6 kegs!

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                          • #14
                            How about getting the plates mounted on whatever stand you will be useing, and then just drilling with a roto-hammer through all the holes?

                            You can use a bit that just fits freely in the holes, and it will remove most of it and then finish with the air hammer.
                            The extra weight of the concrete will deinitely come in handy someday

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                            • #15
                              I think this job is too big and that you should throw the plates away. The best way to do that is to put them on a truck and pay to have them delivered to me in Mississippi. Once they arrive I will make sure that they are disposed of properly. You can keep one for a keepsake.

                              Good luck.

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