Help! MT3 Arbor totally stuck

[J Tiers]

That's no joke.

JL.........

I know, but due to the general perversity of all things, if you WANT it to come loose, it will hold like no tomorrow. You have to try doing that where you really NEED it to work right, for it to pop out.........

[BCRider]

Pull it off,Weld a piece of High Grade Fine Thread bolt with Hex Head cut off on to end of JT hanging straight down.Once it cools take heavy wall pipe or tubing cut square preferably machined square on ends.Slide it over so it seats against Quill and with very heavy washer or washers install Nut and tighten.

Slide hammer is option also but would have to make coupler to weld on to JT.

Now that's a pretty nice option. Arbors are cheap and easily replaced. So this is very much a viable option.

Put the chuck back on, stick an end mill in it, and try to mill something accurately. That is alleged to make the taper let go in two blinks of an eye.

That would work WAY better than my ball bearing on a lever arm idea. The arbor's grip KNOWS our intent..... They are very annoying in that regard..... The method will be even more effective if you pick a job where you're time limited or it's the last piece of stock in that size and you've already put in 7.6 hours of work on other features. if you meet all those requirements the arbor will only remain seated barely long enough to ruin the part......

[RB211]

Before you break anything else, put a big hole saw in the chuck and drill some big holes in sheet metal

[darryl]

I'm not sure what that spring is doing in there- is it a damping device to stop the quill when it is all the way up. In any event, if you lower the quill does that open up the slot at the top? If it does, then lower the quill by an inch or two and secure it there. Then take a piece of flat bar and shove it in there above the arbor. Then from the top edge of the bar, wedge a piece of steel between the bar and the top of the slot. That gives you something to lever against without having to apply hammer blows.

You may have to raise the spring to be able to do this.

[JoeLee]

I know, but due to the general perversity of all things, if you WANT it to come loose, it will hold like no tomorrow. You have to try doing that where you really NEED it to work right, for it to pop out.........

This happened to me twice. The first time it was on my Delta drill press. I couldn't get the MT2 to pop out of the quill. One day I had to do some light milling since I had my X Y table on the drill press I went at it. Wasn't 2 minutes into the milling the MT2 dropped right out of the quill.

Second time was on my BP. Was doing some drilling and had to side mill a few thou off a part so being lazy I put the end mill in the Jacobs 14N chuck. I took light passes of about .005 because I didn't want to put a lot of side force on the chuck. Into the third pass the chuck dropped off the arbor leaving the straight shank spinning in the chucks taper. The chuck didn't fall far, maybe 1/4".
My previous attempts to remove that chuck from the straight shank arbor with wedges and pressing through a hole I had drilled through the center had failed. I wanted to put it on an R8 for dedicated use on the mill.

I don't know what it is about the side hammering and rotational force about side milling that does it but it works.

JL..............

[I make chips]

Before you break anything else, put a big hole saw in the chuck and drill some big holes in sheet metal

The ultimate loosen a taper chatter right there.

[Doozer]

What is the pic of a Locking Pin you broke?
I am not sure what I am looking at.

-D

[Willy]

Pull it off,Weld a piece of High Grade Fine Thread bolt with Hex Head cut off on to end of JT hanging straight down.Once it cools take heavy wall pipe or tubing cut square preferably machined square on ends.Slide it over so it seats against Quill and with very heavy washer or washers install Nut and tighten.

Slide hammer is option also but would have to make coupler to weld on to JT.

I've used this technique in the past and it worked very well. Put some pressure on it and then give the assembly a couple of good whacks with a hammer to shock it lose. The arbor is disposable at this point anyway.