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Help! MT3 Arbor totally stuck

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  • Willy
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
    Pull it off,Weld a piece of High Grade Fine Thread bolt with Hex Head cut off on to end of JT hanging straight down.Once it cools take heavy wall pipe or tubing cut square preferably machined square on ends.Slide it over so it seats against Quill and with very heavy washer or washers install Nut and tighten.

    Slide hammer is option also but would have to make coupler to weld on to JT.
    I've used this technique in the past and it worked very well. Put some pressure on it and then give the assembly a couple of good whacks with a hammer to shock it lose. The arbor is disposable at this point anyway.
    Last edited by Willy; 04-06-2022, 10:47 AM.

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  • Doozer
    replied
    What is the pic of a Locking Pin you broke?
    I am not sure what I am looking at.

    -D

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  • I make chips
    replied
    Originally posted by RB211 View Post
    Before you break anything else, put a big hole saw in the chuck and drill some big holes in sheet metal
    The ultimate loosen a taper chatter right there.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

    I know, but due to the general perversity of all things, if you WANT it to come loose, it will hold like no tomorrow. You have to try doing that where you really NEED it to work right, for it to pop out.........
    This happened to me twice. The first time it was on my Delta drill press. I couldn't get the MT2 to pop out of the quill. One day I had to do some light milling since I had my X Y table on the drill press I went at it. Wasn't 2 minutes into the milling the MT2 dropped right out of the quill.

    Second time was on my BP. Was doing some drilling and had to side mill a few thou off a part so being lazy I put the end mill in the Jacobs 14N chuck. I took light passes of about .005 because I didn't want to put a lot of side force on the chuck. Into the third pass the chuck dropped off the arbor leaving the straight shank spinning in the chucks taper. The chuck didn't fall far, maybe 1/4".
    My previous attempts to remove that chuck from the straight shank arbor with wedges and pressing through a hole I had drilled through the center had failed. I wanted to put it on an R8 for dedicated use on the mill.

    I don't know what it is about the side hammering and rotational force about side milling that does it but it works.

    JL..............

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  • darryl
    replied
    I'm not sure what that spring is doing in there- is it a damping device to stop the quill when it is all the way up. In any event, if you lower the quill does that open up the slot at the top? If it does, then lower the quill by an inch or two and secure it there. Then take a piece of flat bar and shove it in there above the arbor. Then from the top edge of the bar, wedge a piece of steel between the bar and the top of the slot. That gives you something to lever against without having to apply hammer blows.

    You may have to raise the spring to be able to do this.
    Last edited by darryl; 04-06-2022, 02:41 AM.

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  • RB211
    replied
    Before you break anything else, put a big hole saw in the chuck and drill some big holes in sheet metal

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by Tundra Twin Track View Post
    Pull it off,Weld a piece of High Grade Fine Thread bolt with Hex Head cut off on to end of JT hanging straight down.Once it cools take heavy wall pipe or tubing cut square preferably machined square on ends.Slide it over so it seats against Quill and with very heavy washer or washers install Nut and tighten.

    Slide hammer is option also but would have to make coupler to weld on to JT.
    Now that's a pretty nice option. Arbors are cheap and easily replaced. So this is very much a viable option.



    Put the chuck back on, stick an end mill in it, and try to mill something accurately. That is alleged to make the taper let go in two blinks of an eye.
    That would work WAY better than my ball bearing on a lever arm idea. The arbor's grip KNOWS our intent..... They are very annoying in that regard..... The method will be even more effective if you pick a job where you're time limited or it's the last piece of stock in that size and you've already put in 7.6 hours of work on other features. if you meet all those requirements the arbor will only remain seated barely long enough to ruin the part......

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    That's no joke.

    JL.........
    I know, but due to the general perversity of all things, if you WANT it to come loose, it will hold like no tomorrow. You have to try doing that where you really NEED it to work right, for it to pop out.........

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Put the chuck back on, stick an end mill in it, and try to mill something accurately. That is alleged to make the taper let go in two blinks of an eye.

    Still and all, the wedge drift applies a lot of force. Ought to work.

    When you "tried the drift", exactly what did you do? Did it fill the space and rest against both the arbor tang, and the top of the slot? It is supposed to. A bit of lube where the arbor and the spindle touch, in the drift slot, may help. Also some lube on the drift so it slides fairly freely on the slot and tang may help.
    That's no joke.

    JL.........

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Put the chuck back on, stick an end mill in it, and try to mill something accurately. That is alleged to make the taper let go in two blinks of an eye.

    Still and all, the wedge drift applies a lot of force. Ought to work.

    When you "tried the drift", exactly what did you do? Did it fill the space and rest against both the arbor tang, and the top of the slot? It is supposed to. A bit of lube where the arbor and the spindle touch, in the drift slot, may help. Also some lube on the drift so it slides fairly freely on the slot and tang may help.

    Leave a comment:


  • epicfail48
    replied
    Heavy sledge on one side of the quill, smack the other side with an equally heavy sledge, essentially sandwiching the quill between the sledges. Taper should pop right out

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  • Tundra Twin Track
    replied
    Pull it off,Weld a piece of High Grade Fine Thread bolt with Hex Head cut off on to end of JT hanging straight down.Once it cools take heavy wall pipe or tubing cut square preferably machined square on ends.Slide it over so it seats against Quill and with very heavy washer or washers install Nut and tighten.

    Slide hammer is option also but would have to make coupler to weld on to JT.

    Leave a comment:


  • BCRider
    replied
    Originally posted by sni94 View Post

    Where would I apply the lubricant to? And what do you mean by rigid stop, since my locking pin is broken?
    If I'm reading Rich's idea correctly it would be a case of putting a big lump of metal between the end of the arbor and the table. And because the table is flexible between the bottom of the table and the base. This becomes easier if you can use the quill lock to hold your quill down as well as it acting as a depth stop.

    With the picture of your slot with the piece stuck in there and the spring is there a matching slot on the other side? I think JTiers has it right that you will need a thin wedge that pushes the spring down and out of the way and wedges in between the tang on the end of the arbor and the metal of the actual press's shaft. If those two parts are already in contact then it'll need to be a chisel shaped wedge. And I'd say that in that case you'll need to make the wedge from an old square file or similar. You'll grind to a fairly long taper with a pretty sharp edge which gets stoned so it's rounded and about .02 in nose diameter. Then with some care temper it to a dark brown or electric blue color. That should make it tough enough to withstand the hammering. Wear leather gloves, safety glasses and ideally a full face shield just in case it does manage to shatter. You're going to use this taper to push the end of the spring down out of the way then drive it pretty darn firmly between the tang of the arbor and whatever lump of metal is just above it. And that heating idea I mentioned in my last post would not be amiss either.

    And a hearty "GOOD LUCK" on the whole thing. You've already had your share of bad luck on this one. So your due for SOMETHING to go right at this point.....

    I rather wonder what made it stick so securely in the first place. Most of the rest of us have issues with keeping the MT arbors in place due to some drum sanding or other side loads that manage to make the darn things walk out......

    Oh blimey.... That just gave me a thought.... .Rig up a ball bearing so it runs against the side of that last little bit of the Morse taper that sticks out just above the jacobs portion. Put some serious pressure against it while running the drill press and see if you can encourage the morse taper to walk out of the lock. Don't do this against the jacobs part since loading the jacobs taper will be pushing the morse even tighter due to the taper. You want to hit that little lip just above. A good bit of force while running it could help make the MT walk it's way out just like it does for the rest of us when we don't want it to walk out. I'm thinking a long piece of stout flat bar or angle iron with the bearing bolted to the bar and a clamp on the bar that rides against the column. The bearing and clamp being arranged such that the bearing is a little closer to the column than the quill's center line so that pressure on the bar forces the bearing tight into the arbor edge and the clamp against the column. Pull mightily on that sucka!

    For some penetrating oil I'd suggest the same auto transmission but mixed with low odor paint thinner and perhaps squirt in a little brake cleaner. Acetone does mix with the fluid. Badly but it does mix. But the acetone evaporates too fast. A mixture of a little ATF, paint thinner and brake cleaner will be thin enough to penetrate well and not flash off too quickly. But DO make sure to clean it all way before you try the heating option..... Just sayin'......

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  • Cuttings
    replied
    A good idea is to put something under the arbor for it to land on that will stop it's escape without damaging it, like some soft wood. If it is that tight it is going to come out of there like a missile.

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  • lynnl
    replied
    If t'were me I'd leave the drill press/arbor/chuck alone and go get another set for use with the lathe.

    I once went through the same rigamarole with my drill press arbor, and then had a devil of a time getting it to stay in place in the DP thereafter. Eventually I did, but I don't recall just how ...probably brute force.

    Leave a comment:

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