I'd say shorten vs deburr as well. Too easy to end up messing up the precision fit between the jaws.
You COULD stone at quite an angle so rather than try to straighten you just chamfer. That would avoid risk to the good portion. But I know I use my own calipers on some very small features which relies on a nice sharp corner point. And a "chamfer repair" would ruin that. So for my thinking it supports the idea of just carefully grinding BOTH jaws back to remove the burr. I'd do both together with the jaws closed and held pretty well square to a stone. The marking dye the trimmed ends and using some good magnification cut back the taper on the ends until the color is a super fine and barely visible line. That'll ensure both are the same length and leave flat ends that are so narrow that they don't compromise the shallow feature measurements mode.
You can use your same backlight trick as you grind the ends square to check progress. When you get blackout then the damage is gone.
You COULD stone at quite an angle so rather than try to straighten you just chamfer. That would avoid risk to the good portion. But I know I use my own calipers on some very small features which relies on a nice sharp corner point. And a "chamfer repair" would ruin that. So for my thinking it supports the idea of just carefully grinding BOTH jaws back to remove the burr. I'd do both together with the jaws closed and held pretty well square to a stone. The marking dye the trimmed ends and using some good magnification cut back the taper on the ends until the color is a super fine and barely visible line. That'll ensure both are the same length and leave flat ends that are so narrow that they don't compromise the shallow feature measurements mode.
You can use your same backlight trick as you grind the ends square to check progress. When you get blackout then the damage is gone.
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