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Do they work? I have a 54" box brake that needs some rust and paint removal in hard to reach areas and around bracing, and in corners.
Any other thing they are used for?
Yup, even an inexpensive one will pop all that crap out from the inside corners. JR
PS: An inside corner joint is a bear to get to to remove the slag. Grinder? No. Chipping hammer? yes. Chipping hammer on steroids? Good ol fashion Needle gun. JR
One trick with the needle scalers, is don't "push hard". All too many people, I've found, try to push the scaler into the work, in order to, I don't know, increase the force against the material being removed, or whatever. I find myself doing it a lot.
No, back off a bit, let the needles get up to speed when the hammer hits 'em. It seems to work a lot better.
One trick with the needle scalers, is don't "push hard". All too many people, I've found, try to push the scaler into the work, in order to, I don't know, increase the force against the material being removed, or whatever. I find myself doing it a lot.
No, back off a bit, let the needles get up to speed when the hammer hits 'em. It seems to work a lot better.
Doc.
Yes, thats why a light 10lb unit works great. Let the tool do the work.. One other point, for me anyway. The angle of attack. It will vary from one coating to another. But for the most part I go in at a sharp angle vs say 90 degrees to the work. JR
One trick with the needle scalers, is don't "push hard". All too many people, I've found, try to push the scaler into the work, in order to, I don't know, increase the force against the material being removed, or whatever. I find myself doing it a lot.
No, back off a bit, let the needles get up to speed when the hammer hits 'em. It seems to work a lot better.
Doc.
It took me a couple of holes to realize that the same trick applies to hammer drills for concrete. Just apply the tool lightly and let the drills or needles achieve nearly the whole length of the stroke.
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