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  • Cuttings
    replied
    If it were me, I would remove the apron from the lathe and completely disassemble it getting all the critical shafts gears etc.out of the way. You may have to make up some kind of jig to hold the broken part in the correct position for welding. As far as I know, because is a casting it should be preheated before welding.

    Leave a comment:


  • SVS
    replied
    Drilling a twenty foot jump shot is VERY satisfying though….

    Back to the lathe. Some shafts/screws are better removed WITH the apron. In which case you need to block under the apron while detaching the saddle and moving it aside.

    Often lead screws are attached to the gear box with cleverly concealed taper pins or alternate booby traps.

    Every brand is different, you’ll just need to gently work through the process.

    Leave a comment:


  • strokersix
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Every time I try to save a little work by not removing something completely, I end up having to anyhow, just when I don't particularly want to. May as well eliminate the middleman and just get it out to work on. Trying to do it "the easy way", is generally harder, and always half-assed.
    "The lazy man works twice as hard." One of my favorites. Example: Toss something toward the trash can and miss. Now I have to walk over, bend down to pick it up. I just worked twice as hard than if I'd just moved closer in the first place.

    Leave a comment:


  • welderskelter
    replied
    I just figured it would be easier to leave it in place and weld it as I do weld in all positions. If I cant weld it maybe I can bolt an angle iron on the end and use that for an ear. Will know more today.

    Leave a comment:


  • old mart
    replied
    Some pictures would be helpful, I have just checked out the lathes UK and cannot see any lugs or how the aprons are attached to the saddle (carriage).

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

    Refer to nc5a's post. I agree. Best to get the apron, which is what you want to work on, off the machine and out where you can work on it. off the end, or lift it off after pulling the shafts and screw.

    Every time I try to save a little work by not removing something completely, I end up having to anyhow, just when I don't particularly want to. May as well eliminate the middleman and just get it out to work on. Trying to do it "the easy way", is generally harder, and always half-assed.

    If it turns out to be more than expected, then disassembling will be easier. Might want to do a bit of machining on it when the welding is done, also... that will be easier. And you can tuurn it any way you need to. Just better all around, IMO.
    When I had to pull the apron and saddle off my Clausing I slid the lead screw out. It was a lot easier to remove it than to let it hang off the gear box and try to block it up. Logically thinking it was just the easier way to do it.

    JL...............

    Leave a comment:


  • JRouche
    replied
    When I got my trusty sb10 I slid the carriage off the end. And a long end it was for me, a whole 48".

    I was refurbishing something I had no knowledge of. I knew the carriage was going to have to come off. So I did. Sliding it off the end was the best move for me. Clean rails please. JR

    Leave a comment:


  • boslab
    replied
    There is nothing wrong with sounding dumb, I know many people that do not sound dumb that have the brainpower of an average king Edward potato
    ( my old doctor for one, his secretory for 2 and his “vlad the impaler” phlebotomy tech for 3, that’s just one office) but they knew how to talk a good game
    i hope you get it fixed, you don’t want a bend in your leadscrew trust me it a bugger to straighten even with a press and all the best intentions, I had a leadscrew to unbend once, I swear it took 2 days it’s not that hard to pull them out, like all things once you do it once, it becomes old fast
    im more interested in how it broke tbh.
    hope it works out ok
    mark

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
    Not sure why you would have to remove the TS and try to slide the saddle of the end of the bed when you can remove the 4 plates on the underside of the saddle and lift it straight off, after the apron is separated and blocked up.

    JL.............
    Refer to nc5a's post. I agree. Best to get the apron, which is what you want to work on, off the machine and out where you can work on it. off the end, or lift it off after pulling the shafts and screw.

    Every time I try to save a little work by not removing something completely, I end up having to anyhow, just when I don't particularly want to. May as well eliminate the middleman and just get it out to work on. Trying to do it "the easy way", is generally harder, and always half-assed.

    If it turns out to be more than expected, then disassembling will be easier. Might want to do a bit of machining on it when the welding is done, also... that will be easier. And you can tuurn it any way you need to. Just better all around, IMO.

    Leave a comment:


  • welderskelter
    replied
    Thanks Joel

    Leave a comment:


  • Joel
    replied
    Here is a link that shows all of the parts and terms:
    http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/

    Leave a comment:


  • nc5a
    replied
    May I suggest you remove the apron if you are going to do a weld repair on it. First reason is dressing the weld will certainly require some work which will be easier if the apron is off the machine. . Secondly doing a weld repair with it on the machine even if the saddle is removed is generally not a good idea.

    But if you insist then place 2x4's or any sort of blocking under the apron to support it. Then cover the bed ways and protect the apron as best you can in the non welding area and have the ground close to the weld area. Make sure the current path doesn't go through bearings or bushings.

    Leave a comment:


  • welderskelter
    replied
    I may not have to lift the saddle off. If I block the apron then just unbolt the saddle and move it forward to clear the broken ear. That might work.Thanks guys if for nothing more than the schooling on terminology. Maybe next time I wont sound so dumb. Ha

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeLee
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    "Remove the bed"? Or "remove from the bed"?

    The apron should be removable by disconnecting from the carriage, and remove-ing off the right (tailstock) end after taking off the brackets so that the apron comes clear of the various shafts and leadscrew.

    Removing the shafts and leadscrew first makes it much easier.
    Not sure why you would have to remove the TS and try to slide the saddle of the end of the bed when you can remove the 4 plates on the underside of the saddle and lift it straight off, after the apron is separated and blocked up.

    JL.............

    Leave a comment:


  • welderskelter
    replied
    Ok. I guess I am removing the saddle from the apron.. The apron has a broken ear. But I need to get the saddle out of the way so I can weld the apron. But will the apron set on a block without falling on the floor. Not sure how it is all put together.

    Leave a comment:

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