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Currently Lucas oil treatment, I think it’s a bit too sticky, it’s treacle, plus a bugger to get off your hands, however it works
mark
it’s good for tapping crappy mild steel too
I just went through this actually. About the only place for me to get Vactra 2 is from MMC in the US and the cost is ridiculous! So I went through my brothers business who deals with PetroCanada and got a 5 gallon pail of their version for the same cost as one gallon of Vatra. So far it appears to work just as well.
To add to the coming 100 post thread...
The Lucas oil stabilizer is what I buy.
It is just like STP as far as I can tell.
It is sooo goooey ! I use it on the bridge
of my SIP jig borer, because Vactra 2
just drips down in a few days, all over
the table. With Lucas, it might take a
month for the oil on the bridge to drip
down.
I have a Boyar Shultz surface grinder
that I use Vactra 2 on the vertical column
and red ATF on the table. The thinner
ATF just makes the hand table crank
easier.
So evaluate the application for the oil
it needs. Even on the same machine
it may need different oils.
Here we go again with another 100 post thread on way oil.
-Yep. It's kind of like the "best way to fix cast iron". Last time I asked that, I got literally fifteen different suggestions and people were actually getting mad that I wasn't using their trick- which, as any idiot could clearly see, was by far the best solution, don'cha know.
In this case, for the home-shop type, or even the high-use home-shop type like me, gear oil, motor oil, cheap hydraulic oil, jack oil, bar oil, 2-stroke oil, take your pick. It all works. Again, any oil is better than NO oil.
I'd add a hearty AMEN to that. I use the bar oil because I had it on hand and when I tried it it worked well. I was then handed another gallon of it by someone that no longer had a chainsaw. The first gallon took me about 8 to 10 years to use up. And now I've got another 3/4 gallon to work through before I need to worry about any sort of new choice.
As I posted I feel it "float" my tail stock for a good 6 to 8 passes on an obvious film. And is still slippery when down to a more conventional film thickness for a good number of additional passes. I'd expect proper way oil to perform in much the same manner. Is this not the case? Or is proper specific way oil give even better results?
Here we go again with another 100 post thread on way oil.
Whoops.
That was not my intention. My question is answered. Thanks all for the suggestions. I think what I will do is buy the Sonoco Rich suggested. I probably go through 1/2 gallon a year. Split that with my dad and it is a good value. Sidney holds at least a pint and does an does an oiler pump worth every few inches, so I need a decent amount compared to most homeshops.
But I may also try some of the concoctions here in the immediate. Some might work even better.
Not your fault Metal. Oil, spark plugs and oil filters are something everyone is an expert on.
Chain lube too.... If things on any motorcycle or bicycle forum start to slow down a good bar fight is always ensured by asking how to clean a chain and what lube to use. It never gets old.....
Chain lube too.... If things on any motorcycle or bicycle forum start to slow down a good bar fight is always ensured by asking how to clean a chain and what lube to use. It never gets old.....
Oh yeah. Some of the guys I know don't lube chains much as evidenced by worn sprockets and rusty chains. I soak the hell out of mine and will sometimes get 30,000 miles out of a chain.
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