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  • #31
    Just throw out my two cents: My lathe had no lube specs with it whatsoever, so I've experimented a bit:

    for a while I used hyraulic oil (I have a lot of it for my tractor)--honestly probably one of the best things I have tried

    for a couple years I used straight atf--yes its very thin, but has a lot of good cleaning properties. it you''re diligent about lubing your ways, it works.

    At some point, all I had on hand was gear oil--that worked too.

    Recently I tried a gallon on bar lube, which to the best of my knowledge, does not contain sulfur (its perfectly clear). I've been real happy with that, though when finally get around to scraping my lathe, I'll be buying some proper way oil.
    "it is no measure of mental health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society." -- krishnamurti
    "look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -- albert einstien
    "any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."

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    • #32
      Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
      Now if you'll give me a moment, I need to apply some milk to my copper.
      i'm missing something, please explain....

      "it is no measure of mental health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society." -- krishnamurti
      "look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -- albert einstien
      "any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by mtraven View Post

        i'm missing something, please explain....
        One of the old machinist's tricks. But it's only old and well known because it actually works. It's the fat in the milk that makes it work. So whole milk or at least 3%. Skim milk likely wouldn't work as well.

        But good cleanup is the order of the day. Otherwise I'm sure rust and sour smells would fill the shop....
        Chilliwack BC, Canada

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        • #34
          Originally posted by BCRider View Post

          One of the old machinist's tricks. But it's only old and well known because it actually works. It's the fat in the milk that makes it work. So whole milk or at least 3%. Skim milk likely wouldn't work as well.

          But good cleanup is the order of the day. Otherwise I'm sure rust and sour smells would fill the shop....
          so its used a lube / coolant? never heard of that one, but I've done almost no copper work. I assume there is a better / modern version of copper lube?

          chip trays get smelling pretty bad just from normal stuff, can't imagine how bad
          "it is no measure of mental health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society." -- krishnamurti
          "look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -- albert einstien
          "any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by mtraven View Post

            so its used a lube / coolant? never heard of that one, but I've done almost no copper work. I assume there is a better / modern version of copper lube?

            chip trays get smelling pretty bad just from normal stuff, can't imagine how bad
            Yeah, look in turn of the century machinist handbook.
            21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
            1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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            • #36
              Milling/turning/drilling copper sucks.
              If whole milk makes just a little better
              I'd say try it.



              New Shimmer is a floor wax and a dissert topping ! ! !

              --Chevy Chase
              DZER

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              • #37
                Medium weight non-foaming hydraulic fluid.

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                • #38
                  McMaster stock # 1017K31, one gallon, $26.32, in stock.

                  Not Vactra 2, but described as "Slide and Way Oil, ISO Grade 68, 1-gal Jug, Clear". McMaster has not disappointed me.

                  https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/2407
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
                    I dunno if anyone is tracking it, but Vactra 2 is OOS everywhere and nearly impossible to get in reasonable quantities for reasonable prices.

                    So, if you had to make a homebrew makeshift oil with affordable constituents, what would you use and why?

                    Paging Willy​​​​​​​
                    We have hundreds of gallons of ISO46 hydraulic oil at my work. I would add good old STP (high zinc additive)
                    engine oil treatment, the stuff that is as thick as cold honey.
                    In the ratio of about 10:1, the STP makes it "tacky" just like the old school Vactra
                    I always save a few gallons of the hyd oil for our machine shop area at work, the properties are extremely similar.
                    ISO 68 is the closest match but we don't use much of that.
                    The ISO46 that we do use is a match for DTE Medium
                    Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 05-13-2022, 05:58 AM.
                    25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                      We have hundreds of gallons of ISO46 hydraulic oil at my work. I would add good old STP (high zinc additive)
                      engine oil treatment, the stuff that is as thick as cold honey.
                      In the ratio of about 10:1, the STP makes it "tacky" just like the old school Vactra
                      I always save a few gallons of the hyd oil for our machine shop area at work, the properties are extremely similar.
                      ISO 68 is the closest match but we don't use much of that.
                      The ISO46 that we do use is a match for DTE Medium
                      I happen to have 5 gal of iso 46 or 68. I may go for the stp or thick bar and chain oil. Depends on the price of stp I guess. Mix up a half gal and order the new stuff. When it gets here mix in some more stp for extra thick oil for my power hacksaw.

                      Thanks!
                      21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                      1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

                        I happen to have 5 gal of iso 46 or 68. I may go for the stp or thick bar and chain oil. Depends on the price of stp I guess. Mix up a half gal and order the new stuff. When it gets here mix in some more stp for extra thick oil for my power hacksaw.

                        Thanks!
                        Here ya go, ISO 68 at Tractor Supply for ~$50 / 2gal
                        https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...l-iso-68-2-gal

                        Also at Home Depot (they'll have to order it to your store)
                        ~50 for 5 gal: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Miles-Lu...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
                        Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 05-13-2022, 07:15 PM.
                        25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                        • #42
                          I purchased 5 gal of VAC2 oil back before Enco got bought out still have plenty left. I haven't looked at the price lately.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by doc0455 View Post
                            I purchased 5 gal of VAC2 oil back before Enco got bought out still have plenty left. I haven't looked at the price lately.
                            Consider yourself lucky, it makes diesel look cheap.
                            25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Doc Nickel View Post
                              Personally, for several of my machines I simply use gear oil. Just a jug of whatever 90w the local auto-parts store has on sale.
                              Just be sure it's non-EP oil- the chlorine in EP will attack any brass in the machine.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by CarlByrns View Post

                                Just be sure it's non-EP oil- the chlorine in EP will attack any brass in the machine.
                                There are several types of extreme pressure additives.
                                There is a rating system, I really forget the details, but
                                something like GL1 or GL3, something like that originating
                                from the American petroleum institute. The truth is that
                                only certain GL ratings will attach copper based alloys.
                                I think the newer synthetic additive package is safe.

                                API Gear Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org

                                --Doozer
                                DZER

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