[QUOTE=lynnl;n2000692]
He did. ...see last sentence of 3rd paragraph.
Here's the answer they give:
Just plain stupid --- that's why i did not initially respond to the OP because I knew the answer defied "normal logic"
first off --- the vehicle never should have left the shop after the initial alternator replacement because a proper replacement INCLUDES taking a voltage output test AT IDLE WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON and posting the results on the work order!!! so how can you possibly diagnose a "puzzle" like this when it's written by a couple of hillbillie's who really don't know proper repair procedure in the first place?
secondly --- they say the battery goes dead after a couple weeks? as in nothing? was the car just parked or being driven ? just parked and with a new battery the vehicle can do just fine sitting for a couple weeks --- and using the vehicle daily would mean it could quit day one if the vehicle was being driven in city traffic (lots of idling) at night with the headlights on,,, so why a timed "two week interval" again - senseless hillbillies writing up the mix....
FWIW ------- Here's the best possible answer to what was so poorly put together, the vehicle initially had charging problems - but they don't go into intervals initially, just battery being dead, so new battery - battery still goes dead - could still be a faulty replacement battery --- could also be the fault lies in alternator - but no testing of the charge system after means your shooting in the dark, still - initial problem could have been alternator brushes - regulator or diodes --- whatever...
But --- second alternator does not help the situation, and now their talking "timed intervals" there is one thing *( actually many related) that can create this type of situation and that's that the second *(most likely remanufactured) alternator had Diode failure in fact perhaps the reason it got replaced from another vehicle to begin with and they did not catch it in the rebuild because the diodes acted like diodes...
But alternator diodes can act normal 99% of the time --- and then all the sudden backfeed and discharge the battery when the vehicle is parked,,, sometimes they can do it with surprisingly predictable intervals - say when a battery loses a certain surface charge (after a couple weeks of parking the car) and then the voltage hits the "sweet spot" to trigger the diodes malfunction ,,, then it's full blown discharge of the battery in fact so much so that the parked vehicles alternator will go from room temperature to actually heating up very hot, the power wire is always engaged to the alternator - the only thing stopping this from being a dead short to begin with is the diodes, so if one backfeeds it's a done deal...
Darryl brought up the car radio and someone leaving it on and it not being wired right --- but it too can be triggered EVEN if wired correctly simply by either diode malfunction (due to their still being power ran to it to run the clock at all times) or corroded circuit board, I repaired a Kenwood with this problem - was taking the system down, tracked it down to the circuit board --- cleaned all the corrosion up and replaced a couple surface mount resistors because they were too far gone,,, problem solved - talked to the customers and asked them what could have possibly happened because their seemed to be a sticky substance that started the corrosion - get a giggle out of both of them --- seems as though about a year earlier "the bride" was drinking a coke and hit a massive bump - the drink popped it's lid in the cup holder which resides directly above the kenwood,,,
"do you think that could have done it?" they ask,,, why yes - yes i do... But --- that was constant draw,,, the puzzle in the OP stated "no draw"
But technically that not does not exclude an alternator with bad diodes... they can test no draw what-so-ever, then you turn your back and they drain the battery...
The pulley being the wrong size does not fit the puzzle, first off they said "all the components in the electrical system are just fine" How can you even make that statement if you never checked the replacement alternator's charge values at Idle with the headlights on?
He did. ...see last sentence of 3rd paragraph.
Here's the answer they give:
Well, the truth is there was probably nothing wrong with the original battery. What was wrong was that the alternator was in fact faulty. The first alternator the mechanic replaced was indeed the right alternator, but it had the wrong size pulley. The pulley was too large in diameter and wasn't turning fast enough.
[End Quote]
[End Quote]
first off --- the vehicle never should have left the shop after the initial alternator replacement because a proper replacement INCLUDES taking a voltage output test AT IDLE WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON and posting the results on the work order!!! so how can you possibly diagnose a "puzzle" like this when it's written by a couple of hillbillie's who really don't know proper repair procedure in the first place?
secondly --- they say the battery goes dead after a couple weeks? as in nothing? was the car just parked or being driven ? just parked and with a new battery the vehicle can do just fine sitting for a couple weeks --- and using the vehicle daily would mean it could quit day one if the vehicle was being driven in city traffic (lots of idling) at night with the headlights on,,, so why a timed "two week interval" again - senseless hillbillies writing up the mix....
FWIW ------- Here's the best possible answer to what was so poorly put together, the vehicle initially had charging problems - but they don't go into intervals initially, just battery being dead, so new battery - battery still goes dead - could still be a faulty replacement battery --- could also be the fault lies in alternator - but no testing of the charge system after means your shooting in the dark, still - initial problem could have been alternator brushes - regulator or diodes --- whatever...
But --- second alternator does not help the situation, and now their talking "timed intervals" there is one thing *( actually many related) that can create this type of situation and that's that the second *(most likely remanufactured) alternator had Diode failure in fact perhaps the reason it got replaced from another vehicle to begin with and they did not catch it in the rebuild because the diodes acted like diodes...
But alternator diodes can act normal 99% of the time --- and then all the sudden backfeed and discharge the battery when the vehicle is parked,,, sometimes they can do it with surprisingly predictable intervals - say when a battery loses a certain surface charge (after a couple weeks of parking the car) and then the voltage hits the "sweet spot" to trigger the diodes malfunction ,,, then it's full blown discharge of the battery in fact so much so that the parked vehicles alternator will go from room temperature to actually heating up very hot, the power wire is always engaged to the alternator - the only thing stopping this from being a dead short to begin with is the diodes, so if one backfeeds it's a done deal...
Darryl brought up the car radio and someone leaving it on and it not being wired right --- but it too can be triggered EVEN if wired correctly simply by either diode malfunction (due to their still being power ran to it to run the clock at all times) or corroded circuit board, I repaired a Kenwood with this problem - was taking the system down, tracked it down to the circuit board --- cleaned all the corrosion up and replaced a couple surface mount resistors because they were too far gone,,, problem solved - talked to the customers and asked them what could have possibly happened because their seemed to be a sticky substance that started the corrosion - get a giggle out of both of them --- seems as though about a year earlier "the bride" was drinking a coke and hit a massive bump - the drink popped it's lid in the cup holder which resides directly above the kenwood,,,
"do you think that could have done it?" they ask,,, why yes - yes i do... But --- that was constant draw,,, the puzzle in the OP stated "no draw"
But technically that not does not exclude an alternator with bad diodes... they can test no draw what-so-ever, then you turn your back and they drain the battery...
The pulley being the wrong size does not fit the puzzle, first off they said "all the components in the electrical system are just fine" How can you even make that statement if you never checked the replacement alternator's charge values at Idle with the headlights on?
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