Another CX701

[The Metal Butcher]

Tundra - It looks good and solid but hasn't done any work yet so time will tell. I did check the runout with it sitting there and it appears to be within normal limits for a 3 jaw. 2 to 3 thou. Just about ready to start moving the old lathe out and cleaning the space to move this one in.
One thing I will need to do is make an adapter plate for my collet chuck. I priced a piece of Dura Bar from the same place I had purchased some before but they wanted $500 for a piece 5" in Diameter and 1" thick. More than I paid for the chuck. If anybody knows where there is an adapter plate from an old 3 jaw chuck from one of these lathes it looks like I could easily make the adapter from one of those. Otherwise when I get the time I will tour around the local machine shops and see what they might have.

1. https://www.mcmaster.com/cast-iron/shape~rod-and-disc/
2. Weight plates can be okay. Just be careful! Some suck.
3. Steel is fine.

[EddyCurr]

Backing plates or Chuck Adapter Plates are widely available in various sizes, materials and states of preparation.

One idea is to check whether vendors that sell the brand of collet chuck you own also offer suitable plates from the same source. Maybe something semi-finished is available at a modest price.

Another is to shop offerings at the likes of the following:

• LittleMachineshop
• Grizzly
• Travers
• MSCDirect

For example, LSM has a 6" stepped blank"2336 Chuck Adapter, Unthreaded 6" Diameter" for US$53.

Grizzly has "SB1385 6" Blank Back Plate - Thick" for US$30; "T10111 6" Blank Back Plate" for US$31; and "SB1384 6" Blank Back Plate" for US$52.

There are several more to choose from at both these sites and others.

Busy Bee offers an adaptOr ("o" not" e") for the CX615 that perhaps would be a starting point for your CX701. "CX615CA Chuck Adaptor for 4 Jaw Chuck" CD$140

Hopefully this is useful and I haven't made a boneheaded mistake again

[Tundra Twin Track]

1. https://www.mcmaster.com/cast-iron/shape~rod-and-disc/
2. Weight plates can be okay. Just be careful! Some suck.
3. Steel is fine.

Can you hold your collet chuck in existing 3 jaw or unbolt to change it out?

[psomero]

Buy durabar drops on ebay. For the sizes you'd need for a 7x10 backplate, you can get something for like $30

I bought durabar on mcmaster for my 8x20 and it came out to less than $75 for a 7 x 1 in slug IIRC
You need to buy a disc and not a bar. Heed the tolerances on cut squareness and expect to clean up at least 1/4" to get it flat enough for a backplate. I overshot and regretted it because it took me weeks of sporadic evenings to turn over an inch off of my new buck atsc backplate radially .01" at a time with the stock toolpost/compound setup, which is particularly ironic now considering I have a 7.5HP 17x60 Hwacheon at work 😎

Cast Iron, 6" Diameter, 1" Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/8588T23

[Cuttings]

Thanks for the info on the cast discs. Those prices are more doable. I did contact Busy Bee. They said they didn't have anything and didn't even have a separate part number for the one on the CX701. They could contact the factory and see if they could order one, but it would take months.

[The Metal Butcher]

Buy durabar drops on ebay. For the sizes you'd need for a 7x10 backplate, you can get something for like $30

I bought durabar on mcmaster for my 8x20 and it came out to less than $75 for a 7 x 1 in slug IIRC
You need to buy a disc and not a bar. Heed the tolerances on cut squareness and expect to clean up at least 1/4" to get it flat enough for a backplate. I overshot and regretted it because it took me weeks of sporadic evenings to turn over an inch off of my new buck atsc backplate radially .01" at a time with the stock toolpost/compound setup, which is particularly ironic now considering I have a 7.5HP 17x60 Hwacheon at work 😎

Cast Iron, 6" Diameter, 1" Long
https://www.mcmaster.com/8588T23

That wasn't my experience. I bought a 9" disc, it was flat to within 10 thou, and had 3/16" extra stock.

[psomero]

That wasn't my experience. I bought a 9" disc, it was flat to within 10 thou, and had 3/16" extra stock.

It was flat, but was the face perpendicular to the diameter? I had one slug that had quite a bit of angulation on both cut faces, despite being cut cleanly with a stout saw, but now that I think about it, that might have been an ebay special...

[The Metal Butcher]

It was flat, but was the face perpendicular to the diameter? I had one slug that had quite a bit of angulation on both cut faces, despite being cut cleanly with a stout saw, but now that I think about it, that might have been an ebay special...

Yeah, pretty good. Didn't matter, it was like 3/16" over on the OD as well, so it cleaned up fine at 9".

[Cuttings]

Well, I finally got the old combination mill & lathe pulled out , cleaned up and set up close to the door so it will be ready to go when I get around to putting it on the market. Meanwhile I will clean up the area where it was and wash down the wall that was behind it. Lots of splatter from both the lathe and the mill. I have some paint around so once I get it as clean as I can I will throw a new coat of paint on the wall to at least start out with it looking clean. The next step after that is to position the base for the new machine and drill the floor for the anchors.

[Doozer]

Yet again we have praise for a brand new machine which has not even made a single cut.! It may, or may not be a good machine. Please keep us informed about how much work it has done, and how many repairs or modifications have been made at 5 yr intervals or thereabouts. Regards David Powell.

Yep. My thinking as well.
Ewwwwuuuuhhh!!! It's New ! ! !
It must be GREAT ! ! !
Ah contrair mon frair !
Gotta eat the pudding first.

--Doozer

[mklotz]

Yep. My thinking as well.
Ewwwwuuuuhhh!!! It's New ! ! !
It must be GREAT ! ! !
Ah contrair mon frair !
Gotta eat the pudding first.

--Doozer

If you're going to pretend to speak French, at least learn to spell it...

au contraire mon frère

[sch]

If you haven't permanently mounted the lathe to the stands I would suggest a layer of permatex gasket between the lathe and the chip pan.
This will prevent any lube or other liquid that accumulates in the chip pan from seeping into the stands below and getting on any material or
tooling in the cabinets. Also putting the lathe next to and parallel to a wall is space efficient but makes access to the electric box dicey if
any future problems occur. A friend found this out when he did a VFD conversion on his 12x36 and in my case about 7-8 yrs ago one of the
contactors failed. Working on mine was 'easy' as it was perpendicular to the wall, his was parallel. Contactor turned out to be a Siemens
knockoff and easily available on the web.

[Cuttings]

Sch - I ran into the leaking problem on the old one so it is on the menu to seal her up good on the final assembly. I will not be mounted right up to the wall. I was just measuring up today to leave room for access to the back of the electrical box. Also there is an air cooled heat sink on the back of the electrical box and a little room for some good air flow around that would be a good thing.

[Cuttings]

Taking a break from the chain gang type work. Drilling 5/8 holes in 15 year old concrete for the anchors. Goes pretty good until you run into small stones. The masonry bit starts to bounce and chew away. I find that using the old chain gang method works OK. Take a substantial hammer and a stout punch to give the stones a good wack to try and break them, then the hammer drill will chew away a little deeper to the next stone. Seems harder than when I did the last one a number of years ago.

[Cuttings]

I managed to get the 4 holes drilled and anchors in them. The old body is telling me that is enough for today, so I guess I will give myself the rest of the day off.l