Toolpost indicator holder

[SVS]

+1 on indicating faces.

I tend to do stuff where face is more important, and it is often a more sensitive measurement.

I have the memory of a duck, so I’ve done the “needle right” thing for quite a while. Two chuck wrenches is just being extravagant…..and hard to reach on my particular lathes. 😁

On edit-no ebeer to Randy-like a patent rejection, it’s …..”obvious to one skilled in the art….”

On re-edit-I’m not especially skilled, just borderline, situational, dyslexic.

[Randy]

This is a great idea. Yea, others have already said it, but it bears repeating.

What I wonder is does this work with all DIs? Or do some of them revolve in the opposite direction?

If your indicator turns opposite of the common variety, you simply put your zero to the left. Similarly, if you put an indicator on the far side of the workpiece, perhaps with a mag base on the back of the cross slide, point zero to the left and the same principle applies.

One comment I neglected to add in my first post was that I never reposition the dial bezel & scale. In all of the YT tutorials I've seen, folks adjust the indicator. I move the cross slide to get the needle where I want it. Of course, if you use a mag base on the lathe bed you'll need to turn the bezel.

I too use a principle in jmarkwolf's example. My tool block is twice the height of the spindle center height (from the top of the compound), so I can rest it on its bottom rather than hang from a top adjuster. That puts the indicator on center height when using either the front or side tool post position.

[Randy]

Two chuck wrenches is just being extravagant…..and hard to reach on my particular lathes. 😁

May I respectfully suggest that you reconsider the two-wrench method? It's an enhancement, not an extravagance. Adjusting opposing jaws together really speeds up the process, and gets the most out of your indicator. Since I learned it I'm much more willing to use my four-jaw chuck. Make a "baby wrench" if clearance is restricted. If your arm is too short to reach around a big chuck, well, I can't help you there.

This is one of the better YT's demonstrating the method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KMhx4DbyDg&ab_channel=DavidLemereis

Again, I reposition the cross slide rather than the indicator bezel.

BTW, I ain't all that smart either. It took an embarrassing number of years for me to think of pointing the needle to the right.

[Fasturn]

Not being a dick, (really)
but I indicate faces all time
if I am chucking something
like a pulley or flange.
I have a dedicated dovetail
holder with an indicator like
yours, that the indicator has
a 1/4" stud off the back, and
it can turn 180° in the holder
so I can flip it and indicate
the side or face of a part.
It is in one of my videos,
I don't have a pic to post right
this minute.

-D

Not to gang up, but these holders in the tool post are for the kids. A mighty mag with the 1/4 shaft will do all of it. Lots of steel to put it on. Too limiting stuck in the post. It's a cute toy, just not my cup of Tea.

[SVS]

Randy-it’s mostly “arm too short”…though in thinking about it I will on the first or second go around slack one/tighten opposite before rotating the chuck. After that it’s “ease the lows-tighten the highs”.

[J Tiers]

One advantage of the two wrench method is the ability to keep a grip on the part while adjusting. With one, you have no choice but to loosen the grip. With two, you can slacken one as you take up with the other.

In certain cases, that can be really really helpful.

[BCRider]

Not to gang up, but these holders in the tool post are for the kids. A mighty mag with the 1/4 shaft will do all of it. Lots of steel to put it on. Too limiting stuck in the post. It's a cute toy, just not my cup of Tea.

There's no right and wrong or clearly superior way to do this other than what works well for each of us.

In my case I used a magnetic base with arms a few times. It was fumbling with where to stick the base all the time which made me make my first tool post indicator adapter. And a slam dunk that I was going to do something to make it even better with the new AXA post.

[JRouche]

Not to gang up, but these holders in the tool post are for the kids. A mighty mag with the 1/4 shaft will do all of it. Lots of steel to put it on. Too limiting stuck in the post. It's a cute toy, just not my cup of Tea.-

Not so. For kids"?

We all have a mag base and dial or plunge indicator on our lathes right? This is not to take place of that but to be incorporated into our arsenal. If your arsenal of tools is limited to what you need for all the jobs you do then that IMO is limiting.

If I want to cut five bars and do it fast this is a nice lil drop in for my wedge tool post. I suspect you dont have a wedge type tool post, cause otherwise you would see the simple-ness of it. JR

[J Tiers]

I'd class the "mighty-Mag" as being "for the kids who do not know any better".

I got one free in a toolbox, and never use it. It seems to be very string and almost useless compared to other options. About as flexible in range of use as a sledgehammer.

Actually, it does have a use..... it holds notes to the rollaround toolbox pretty well.

[Doozer]

My only gripe with something like a Mighty Mag is you can not turn it off.
I hate magnets that attract chips and they are so difficult to clean off.
An air hose or a rag only get them so clean.

-D

[Doozer]

Sort of new on the market is MAGSWITCH magnets.
They are stronger than ANY magnetic indicator base
I have ever used. They have a ton of items on their
web site, like table saw feather boards and a fence
for the band saw. Even end effectors for robot arms.
Funny they do not have one specifically configured
for a dial indicator base. They are on Ebay but I
picked up mine at Woodworkers Wearhouse the other
day. Got the 150 pound pull model. It was $46.
I plan on mounting a Noga arm on it. I am really
impressed by their power and the on/off switch is very
easy to turn. This magnet is a hidden gem. You might
want to try one if you need a truly great indicator base.
The 2 through holes can be tapped with a 10-32 tap
to mount a plate adapter if you want.
--Doozer

[IkeHarris]

My solution has evolved a little over the years in detail but the basic idea has remained:

[Fasturn]

My only gripe with something like a Mighty Mag is you can not turn it off.
I hate magnets that attract chips and they are so difficult to clean off.
An air hose or a rag only get them so clean.

-D

Gee Doozer I had your back on this LOL. Funny but I work 90% with delrin, aluminium, copper and brass. No chips stuck to the mag. I have a on / off mag base, but too much effort with the arms. I may be old, but can pull that mag off the machine with one hand. Now getting down inside a bore with a post holder is silly. As BC said , to each their own, but I not going to waste a tool holder on simple indicator. That same mag with indicator is used to set the compound for angles. Mini magnetic sine bar. 4 jaw chucking, I prefer the clock at 12 not 9. Not a one trick pony.

JR. We haven't had a good Row in quite a while !!
LOL. 🍬

Rant over, now it's a wonderful idea and we can move on to the next argument.

[BCRider]

From your description where you're using so much nonmagnetic material I can see why you like a compact dedicated mag base with indicator. It makes a lot more sense now. However I do probably 65 to 75% of my own items in steel or iron. So chips on my magnets is really an issue. Plus I was put off using them early on by the clutter of arms on my own general use bases trying to find a good spot to set down and not hit things in and around the work pieces. If I used a dedicated mag base with very compact and simple arms then that would be a game changer. But then there's the steel chips on my big majority of items.... So since I do and since I didn't even now the dedicated holder that fits on the tool post is the best option for me. It's compact, it's always at the center height and it only requires me to move the carriage and cross slide minimal amounts to use the indicators then go back to the cutters.... But mostly the chips don't stick. As always YMMV applies due to our own circumstances.

[Fasturn]

Well said BC !! I did forget to mention some titanium and 303SE stainless steel. 303 has a permeability of one, so not magnetic. Not that I choose these materials for the mag base, just what I prefer for my projects. The sulfur makes it cut better than cold roll and no rusting. Now in the home shop the KSI / PSI requirements are not a problem. Just toys for Santa !

Now on a mill I prefer the clip- on Indicol holder. No tool change necessary.