Anyone have a schematic for an old Sharp 1660C lathe?

[Fear]

He said a "proper" E-stop. That's NOT one that the manual start button can bypass.

A "real" E-stop should shut down the machine regardless of how the controls are set, or even if they are messed up.

As far as I can tell, all safetys and the E-stop kill power by triggering the contactor to break power. Someone suggested physically disabling the contactor to stay on to eliminate all safetys.

I never believe in rigged solutions unless it's to limp a vehicle into a building, etc. My repairs are permanent and clean or they wait until they can be.

[J Tiers]

E-stops go all the way on up to being a "disconnect" upstream of anything. There isn't just one kind.

[Fear]

E-stops go all the way on up to being a "disconnect" upstream of anything. There isn't just one kind.

We had LOTO (lock-ou, tag-out) at the factory I worked at where I was required to put my assigned padlock on a physical switch to disable everything while I was inside a cell servicing equipment. We didn't refer to those switched as "E-stops". An E-stop is a panic button in plain sight that you hit to shut everything down in a hurry. Usually when you see someone get their hand caught in something moving or something like that.

I wouldn't call the lockable kill switch on the panel an E-stop because it's not something you could just hammer to kill all power.

[Doozer]

Good job Fear,
finding that bungled wire.
Most times, that is really what it takes.
No real need for a schematic.
Just look for something out of the ordinary.
Happy you found it.
I bet you make your next diagnosis in half the time.

---Doozer

[J Tiers]

We had LOTO (lock-ou, tag-out) at the factory I worked at where I was required to put my assigned padlock on a physical switch to disable everything while I was inside a cell servicing equipment. We didn't refer to those switched as "E-stops". An E-stop is a panic button in plain sight that you hit to shut everything down in a hurry. Usually when you see someone get their hand caught in something moving or something like that.

I wouldn't call the lockable kill switch on the panel an E-stop because it's not something you could just hammer to kill all power.

I'm talking about switches you can just hit to shut down. Red button and all.

[wmgeorge]

I'm talking about switches you can just hit to shut down. Red button and all.

Yes, it kills the control power, but if you have a manual bypass jammed in with a stick its defeated. Thats why the lock out tag out on the main power disconnect is required, not control power but 3 phase or whatever powers the machine. Or depending on the layout of the machines, a lockable work switch within sight of the motor or other that kills the 3 phase or single phase power.

When I first logged in here 20 years ago you were a sound or communications tech, now your a EE that designs solar and VFD systems and everything else. Congratulations.

[Fear]

Thanks everyone for the input. The lathe is finally up so that's one more step to having the shop going.

[wmgeorge]

Thanks everyone for the input. The lathe is finally up so that's one more step to having the shop going.

Did I miss the pictures??

[Fear]

Did I miss the pictures??

It's a 16x60 with backsplash and a 3-jaw chuck but little else.

I figured this should cover most basic lathe duties with the addition of a DRO, a second 4-jaw, a collet chuck and a bunch of other tooling.

I'm still searching for steady rests that fit it.

[oxford]

I figured this should cover most basic lathe duties with the addition of a DRO, a second 4-jaw, a collet chuck and a bunch of other tooling.

I'm still searching for steady rests that fit it.

I think that the 16x60 would be a nice size lathe to have.

I don’t know what your budget is like but personally, I would go with the DRO last if it’s kind of tight.

A DRO on the lathe is nice but I view it more of a luxury rather than a necessity on a lathe. For a vertical mill, I view it as a necessity to use the machine efficiently. It would be one of the first things I added if it didn’t have one. Other opinions may vary on this.

[The Metal Butcher]

It's a 16x60 with backsplash and a 3-jaw chuck but little else.

I figured this should cover most basic lathe duties with the addition of a DRO, a second 4-jaw, a collet chuck and a bunch of other tooling.

I'm still searching for steady rests that fit it.

Looking sharp mate!

[Jim Stewart]

Looking sharp mate!

I see what you did there...