I want to make undercabinet lights on the other side of the room go on when the existing ones do. It's wired to the overhead light so it doesn't even have a switch, just an outlet for a 12v wall wart. I have an unswitched outlet at the new location, so either voltage switched wirelessly would do. I don't want to have a dongle remote to click, nor get deep into 'smart house' crap, just want it to go on with the other. I can't find this searching the electrical supply house stuff.
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OT: Any off the shelf 'wireless relay' for 120AC or 12VDC?
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You can get individual remote control WiFi outlets that operate using a smartphone app:
https://usa.banggood.com/Mini-Smart-...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/Outdoor-Wir...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/12V-24V-220...6&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/433mhz-AC22...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/Tuya-4-way-...N&rmmds=search
You might be able to hack one of the simple wireless transmitters so that the light in the cabinet activates the switch to turn on the remote unit.http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
USA Maryland 21030
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Originally posted by PStechPaul View PostYou can get individual remote control WiFi outlets that operate using a smartphone app:
https://usa.banggood.com/Mini-Smart-...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/Outdoor-Wir...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/12V-24V-220...6&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/433mhz-AC22...N&rmmds=search
https://usa.banggood.com/Tuya-4-way-...N&rmmds=search
You might be able to hack one of the simple wireless transmitters so that the light in the cabinet activates the switch to turn on the remote unit.Location: Jersey City NJ USA
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That'll be tough. You're asking for a single switch that controls the 110V AND a remote outlet wirelessly.
What I did find for you is a wall switch and controlled plug pair. This would work if you stick the switch to the wall beside the AC switch for the regular lights. It's not a single AC and remote switch but it's pretty close.
DEWENWILS Wireless Remote Control Light Switch and Outlet Plug in 100ft RF Range 742377811932 | eBayChilliwack BC, Canada
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Originally posted by BCRider View PostThat'll be tough. You're asking for a single switch that controls the 110V AND a remote outlet wirelessly.
What I did find for you is a wall switch and controlled plug pair. This would work if you stick the switch to the wall beside the AC switch for the regular lights. It's not a single AC and remote switch but it's pretty close.
Location: Jersey City NJ USA
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OK, to summarize you have:
1. A standard, wall mounted light switch that turns the ceiling/room lights on.
2. A standard, probably duplex outlet (two sockets) that is wired through that light switch. Hot when the lights are on and not when they are off.
3. A wall wart in that outlet.
4. One or more 12V lights that are connected to that wall wart.
And you want another, under the cabinet light to come on and off with the room lights. This light is across the room. There is a standard, un-switched outlet near that light. You do not want to use a hand held remote. Besides, an IR remote would be line of sight and therefore a bad way to go. RF is probably the way to go. Or a relay operated by a photocell that senses the room lights.
There are a trillion, inexpensive photocell devices that turn the lights ON when they sense DARK and then turn them off when they sense light. They are all over the internet and probably available at every hardware or home supply in the world. But that is the opposite of what you want. Some of them are sensitive enough to detect indoor lights (think automatic night lights) and one could be hacked to reverse the operation; the addition of a small relay may do it. But I doubt you could do that in a safe manner.
RF transmitter/receiver modules are available, again at low cost. But most are naked circuit boards so an enclosure and power supply modules would be needed. The transmitter could be wired to send a pulse when power is present and a relay at the receiver would then turn your light on. A different signal, perhaps two pulses, could signal that the lights are off. But again it would need to be put together and I doubt you could do it safely.
We are talking about 12 Volt lights and probably in your shop. I would suggest that the easiest way would be to get a bigger wall wart that can power both (all) the lights and run a low Voltage line across the ceiling with something like zip cord. That should be legal in most places. Or you could run it above the ceiling if you have access.
Or call an electrician and have a second, switched outlet installed.Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 08-09-2022, 01:03 AM.Paul A.
SE Texas
And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
You will find that it has discrete steps.
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Another suggestion would be to go to a local electrical supply house and ASK. Grainger, Graybar, etc. The yellow pages is your friend here. They have controls you never imagined. But that word, "smart" may come up.Paul A.
SE Texas
And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
You will find that it has discrete steps.
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I have undercabinet lights in my kitchen that come on when they sense movement. It uses a Simple PIR to detect movement. The lights are LED and run off 3 AAA batteries. That's convenient since it allowed me to wire a USB power puck to a stick that replaced the batteries.
I bought two of the lights in a pack from costco.
The overhead lights come on when I enter the room. A Luton 120V switch with motion detector handles that job.
At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.
Location: SF East Bay.
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Originally posted by gellfex View PostI want to make undercabinet lights on the other side of the room go on when the existing ones do. It's wired to the overhead light so it doesn't even have a switch, just an outlet for a 12v wall wart. I have an unswitched outlet at the new location, so either voltage switched wirelessly would do. I don't want to have a dongle remote to click, nor get deep into 'smart house' crap, just want it to go on with the other. I can't find this searching the electrical supply house stuff.Retired - Journeyman Refrigeration Pipefitter - Master Electrician
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In our crating/shipping dept we use a system that turns on the dust collector whenever any saw is switched on. There is a pass-through sensor on each saw and a receiver/switch on the blower motor. Might work for you. Not really inexpensive. If you're interested I can try to get the mfg/model info.Southwest Utah
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Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View PostOK, to summarize you have:
1. A standard, wall mounted light switch that turns the ceiling/room lights on.
2. A standard, probably duplex outlet (two sockets) that is wired through that light switch. How when the lights are on and not when they are off.
3. A wall wart in that outlet.
4. One or more 12V lights that are connected to that wall wart.
And you want another, under the cabinet light to come on and off with the room lights. This light is across the room. There is a standard, un-switched outlet near that light. You do not want to use a hand held remote. Besides, an IR remote would be line of sight and therefore a bad way to go. RF is probably the way to go. Or a relay operated by a photocell that senses the room lights.
We are talking about 12 Volt lights and probably in your shop. I would suggest that the easiest way would be to get a bigger wall wart that can power both (all) the lights and run a low Voltage line across the ceiling with something like zip cord. That should be legal in most places. Or you could run it above the ceiling if you have access.
Or call an electrician and have a second, switched outlet installed.
Location: Jersey City NJ USA
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Originally posted by chipmaker4130 View PostIn our crating/shipping dept we use a system that turns on the dust collector whenever any saw is switched on. There is a pass-through sensor on each saw and a receiver/switch on the blower motor. Might work for you. Not really inexpensive. If you're interested I can try to get the mfg/model info.
The trick appears to be that you're looking for a single combination switch that both switches the 110 AND at the same time sends a signal to a remote switch block or switch outlet. My 5 minutes of curiosity and searching didn't turn up such an option despite a few different keywords.
Since it's a rental kitchen there MIGHT be a suitable option for you. The idea of the proximity switch got me looking at the idea of a plug in adapter with a motion sensor. Those are rare too but THIS ONE showed up. It's not your "one switch to rule them all" but it would turn on the lights when you come close. And it can go with you when you move.
On the other hand some folks I know along with myself will leave our LED under counter lights on as low level walking around lights that don't blind us in the evening. So I'd venture to suggest that it would be nice to have the undercounter light as a separate control. And that would put us back to the idea of the RF switched outlet I found in my earlier post.
Chilliwack BC, Canada
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Originally posted by chipmaker4130 View PostIn our crating/shipping dept we use a system that turns on the dust collector whenever any saw is switched on. There is a pass-through sensor on each saw and a receiver/switch on the blower motor. Might work for you. Not really inexpensive. If you're interested I can try to get the mfg/model info.Location: Jersey City NJ USA
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