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Steib Sidecar Project for my BMW

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  • Steib Sidecar Project for my BMW

    I recently acquired a very large basket filled with OEM Steib LS200 parts, probably 70 years old. I want to attach it to my 1965 BMW R50/2. Problemo numero uno: the front lower link is frozen inside the sidecar frame. The frame is pictured upside down, the original slit is shown soaked with WD40. I already cut a longer slit on the other side (top side) and heated the outer tube several times almost cherry red. Tried beating it out and twisting it with a pipe wrench. The MFer didn't budge. My plan is to make two more slits 90 degrees apart, soak it with kroil, then try heating/twisting/beating again. Any other ideas?
    -Roland

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    -Roland
    Golf Course Mechanic

    Bedminster NJ

  • #2
    Could there be a hidden pin of some sort holding that lower link in ?
    Scrubbing the area with a wire brush might reveal something.

    Maybe getting some evaporust inside the tube to work at it from the inside ?
    Last edited by jcfx; 10-18-2022, 09:37 PM.

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    • #3
      Unless you are using oxygen-acetylene to heat it,
      you are just playing with it.
      It might take a few heat cycles.

      -Doozer
      DZER

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      • #4
        Roland,

        Part of the problem is that you don't know how long the inner tube is (I presume). is it possible to get a length of fencing wire with the end bent round 150 degrees ( a sort of hook end) in from the frame end, to try to locate the end of the tube?

        Then at least you'll know what length you need to work on.

        Ian
        All of the gear, no idea...

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        • #5
          Also - using a slide hammer arrangement would probably give the most useful force. Even better if you can anchor the frame, pull on the tube with a chain block - and then use a slide hammer.

          Ian
          All of the gear, no idea...

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          • #6
            Even beating on the side of the pipe
            will help break the bond of the rust.

            -D
            DZER

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            • #7
              Drill some small holes in the outer pipe along the length for penetrating oil (blaster). You will now know how deep inner tube is in frame. Heat area to red heat before adding oil to holes. Reheat and use slide hammer. If all else fails cut out section and weld in new one.

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              • #8
                Having needed to do a couple of similar things in the past I'm going to suggest Doozer's heat and some non deforming slapping of the tube and shaft combo. You don't want to hit it hard enough to deform the steel though. If you peen it out of round or manage to kink things then your job will be harder. Just nice firm raps. And lots of heat. If you don't have oxy-acetylene see if you can at least borrow a second propane set and really give'er the BTU's.
                Chilliwack BC, Canada

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                • #9
                  I was using O/A. I plan to try deltap's suggestion first. Thank you everyone for your thoughts!
                  -Roland
                  Golf Course Mechanic

                  Bedminster NJ

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                  • #10
                    Place it on something solid and heavy. Tap firmly on the outside all around. It will loosen the rust and slightly stretch the metal of the outer tube. You just need to watch for and find out where the end of the inner bar is.

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                    • #11
                      I would find out if there is a BMW forum for older models, or a sidecar forum to join and ask people who have had this exact problem for advice.

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                      • #12
                        These situations are always a matter of patience.
                        Who has more, you or it?
                        Your doing the right things.
                        Patients, young Patawan!

                        Sid

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                        • #13
                          Penetrating oil is a joke.
                          If you have some movement
                          it does help achieve more movement.
                          But if the two pieces are not moving at all,
                          penetrating oil will not help. It is a lubricant.
                          If nothing is moving, it will not magically
                          dissolve the rust and make the parts
                          come apart. Only help separate parts
                          that are already moving.
                          The only way to do that is heat cycles
                          to break the rust down. Rust is a ceramic.
                          It has different thermal expansion properties.
                          This is why heat works. Differential expansion.
                          Ceramics are also brittle. Movement from
                          expansion will break it. Ceramics are also
                          electrically non conductive. Ask any one
                          with a rusty car who has electrical problems.

                          -Doozer
                          DZER

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                          • #14
                            Well, I rigged up a slide hammer and applied heat and penetrating oil...twice. I was getting discouraged, almost gave up, then a saw it budge! That bitch is out and it's time for a frothy beverage! Thanks for the tips! Drilling holes did reveal it was longer than I guessed.
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by rmcphearson; 11-13-2022, 05:37 PM.
                            -Roland
                            Golf Course Mechanic

                            Bedminster NJ

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'm glad you got the problem sorted and I have nothing to add except that your sidecar project is awesome! Please keep posting!

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