Removing a drill chuck arbor

[alanganes]

Maybe I’m just stupid, but how does one remove this drill chuck from the arbor? Its a # 3 Jacobs taper and I know it can come out because I put it in there. There’s no hole through the back to push the arbor out. What am I missing here?

[lynnl]

Hard (for me at least) to tell what's arbor and what's chuck. But it looks like there's a groove for using those slotted wedges that are made for pressing arbors out. They're made specific to the JT in question.

Otherwise you may have to "make" that hole in the back. It's doable ...I once did, and therefore anybody can do it.

[Doozer]

Take the hood off, take out the leadscrew,
and there is a hole in there.
Use a pin and press the arbor out.

-D

[metalmagpie]

Bore a cross-hole a bit separated from the chuck. Press a pin through. Then use chuck wedges.

[mikey553]

I have never done this in a keyless chuck, but did a couple of keyed ones. Opened the jaws and drilled the hole through the center of the chuck. Then used a pin to press the arbor out.
I know keyless chucks are different, but I don't think there is anything in the center of the chuck. Am I wrong?

[Willy]

These have always worked for me.

[Doozer]

Take the hood off, take out the leadscrew,
and there is a hole in there.
Use a pin and press the arbor out.

-D

Your chuck even has a pin hole for a hook spanner to take it apart.
Usually I have to grind wrench flats on the body using the surface
grinder in order to grip it. You got a gift right there and don't even
realize it.

-Doozer

[mikey553]

It looks like Doozer was right - you have to take the chuck apart to remove the arbor. Here is an instruction for a similar chuck disassembly. https://www.machinistblog.com/rebuil...t-drill-chuck/
Do not drill the hole through the chuck center - it will destroy it.

[Willy]

It looks like Doozer was right - you have to take the chuck apart to remove the arbor. Here is an instruction for a similar chuck disassembly. https://www.machinistblog.com/rebuil...t-drill-chuck/
Do not drill the hole through the chuck center - it will destroy it.

Great article on rebuilding the Albrecht chuck, thank you. However it does not mention a procedure for removing the arbor intact, the arbor is essentially destroyed during the process mentioned.
Why can one not simply employ the use of the wedges? The groove is there and it does appear there is a surface on the chuck for them to bare against.
What am I missing? Seriously point me in the right direction.

[Doozer]

... However it does not mention a procedure for removing the arbor intact, the arbor is essentially destroyed during the process mentioned.
...

"Remove the spindle and body by pulling them straight out.
You should now be able to see the end of the arbor through the rear of the body, which can sometimes be driven out with a punch.
It isn’t unusual to find that the arbor is in there so tight that a punch fails to budge it.
Here is an option.... Cut the arbor.. and drill and tap for..."

It sure does mention a procedure for removing the arbor intact.
And an alternative one. If you have a press and a 3/8" pin,
I have always been able to get the arbors out. I think the guy
who wrote the article was a hammer jockey.

-D

[mikey553]

Great article on rebuilding the Albrecht chuck, thank you. However it does not mention a procedure for removing the arbor intact, the arbor is essentially destroyed during the process mentioned.
Why can one not simply employ the use of the wedges? The groove is there and it does appear there is a surface on the chuck for them to bare against.
What am I missing? Seriously point me in the right direction.

The OP picture is not very clear, but it appears that arbor shank is smaller than JT taper. It happens in many cases. The wedges would not work here and you need to have them anyway. I do not have such wedges. In addition it looks like you can remove the arbor intact, but it is not clear as well. You really need to take apart your own chuck to understand all the details.

[Willy]

Thank you Doozer and mikey553 for the follow up
Yes I focused on a worst case scenario, however with the proper set of wedges I can't see why that method would not work vs. disassembling the chuck.

Mikey, if one clicks on the OP's pic several times the arbor/chuck juncture will be blown up to fill the entire screen, good detail and clarity.

[djc]

... it appears that arbor shank is smaller than JT taper....The wedges would not work here

For a parallel shank arbor that is smaller than the fat end of the Jacobs taper, you can make a split sleeve that goes over the parallel portion. Clamp it up tight with loctite as backup and then apply the wedges in the approved manner.

Wedge drawing attached. Metric units.

[mikey553]

Thank you Doozer and mikey553 for the follow up
Yes I focused on a worst case scenario, however with the proper set of wedges I can't see why that method would not work vs. disassembling the chuck.

Mikey, if one clicks on the OP's pic several times the arbor/chuck juncture will be blown up to fill the entire screen, good detail and clarity.

Willy, I know this trick with the picture, but it still shows the arbor being smaller than the JT taper. What you see below the cylindrical arbor journal is the relief groove and below it - the JT taper. The chuck body is the shiny donut with bigger diameters. Obviously you are seeing it differently. It would be nice if OP could comment on this.

[mikey553]

For a parallel shank arbor that is smaller than the fat end of the Jacobs taper, you can make a split sleeve that goes over the parallel portion. Clamp it up tight with loctite as backup and then apply the wedges in the approved manner.

This may work. Have you ever tried to do that? The JT tapers can be very tight, I learned it on my own experience.