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Converting 4 x 6 bandsaw for vertical use only

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  • Converting 4 x 6 bandsaw for vertical use only

    I haven't used my 35 year old 4 x 6 bandsaw since I got my Jet 7 x 12. After much thought, I decided that rather than let it sit, I would convert it to vertical use only. It seems that no-one makes a hobby sized vertical metal cutting saw. Of course there are a few older Powermatic Model 143s around, but they still sell for big bucks, and are too heavy to move around easily.

    Most, if not all of the hobby sized wood cutting bandsaws run way to fast, and lack the rigidity needed for satisfactorily cutting steel. The little 4 x 6 horizontal/vertical saws that are seen everywhere are made of heavy cast iron, and geared properly for cutting metal. They are inconvenient to use in the upright position, as it is necessary to straddle or sit on the base. The stamped sheetmetal table is useless, as well. The angled guides needed for cut-off work severely limit the capacity for cutting steel plate.

    While It was hard to abandon the various improvements I had made to the little saw over the years, I felt that the conversion would be fun and potentially useful. I am about halfway through the project, but here is what I have done so far:

    Removed the top of the saw from the base

    Made adaptors to rotate the top and bottom guide assemblies. Standard size blade still works.

    Fabricated brackets to secure it in a vertical position. Front cover still fits with no modification.

    Made new motor mounts.

    Remaining steps:

    Place the saw with the brackets attached onto a 10" x 20" piece of 1/4" steel plate and weld the brackets in place. Since the brackets bolt to the saw, it can easily be removed if necessary. I have a more suitable support stand for the saw.
    .
    Make a 10" x 12" x 1/4" steel table supported by a 12" length of 4" x 4" x 3/16" wall steel tubing. The table will tilt forward to gain access to the blade, etc.

    Upgrade to a more powerful motor if necessary. The existing 1/3 hp Dayton (Grainger) motor has worked okay in the past. It's open enclosure isn't good, but hey, the thing has lasted 35 years.

    I'll post additional photos as things progress.

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  • #2
    It is pretty stable in vertical position just sitting on plywood. Should be rock solid with the mounting brackets welded to a support plate.

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    • #3
      That winch gantry thingy is pretty cool as well.


      -D
      DZER

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      • #4
        I have done the same thing. The only difference is I chose not to orientate the guides . I don't think it benefits the saw at all. The throat gain is minimal but not only that the cast frame means you are limited to the throat depth. With it being original you can cut quite a bit before it bumps into the frame. These used as a vertical will always be limited but I have found it to be very useful and suprisingl how often its just big enough.

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        • #5
          As you can see in the pic the blade is sitting in front of the saw frame . If you re orientate it it is in the same plain as the frame.
          Attached Files
          You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by plunger View Post
            As you can see in the pic the blade is sitting in front of the saw frame . If you re orientate it it is in the same plain as the frame.
            Good point! Since I can switch back to the original guide orientation in seconds at any time, I think I will make my table so it can accommodate both configurations (have my cake and eat it too).

            Thanks for the input!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by plunger View Post
              [...]
              The only difference is I chose not to orientate the guides.[...]
              Taking the twist/untwist out of the blade has to be an advantage. Not any idea of how much advantage, but certainly some.

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              • #8
                Pretty cool Tmate! That's one machine I could use!
                Ontario, Canada

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post

                  Taking the twist/untwist out of the blade has to be an advantage. Not any idea of how much advantage, but certainly some.
                  Increases the throat from 2" to 5-1/2". Milling away an unnecessary rib gets 6" throat.

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                  It's all mind over matter.
                  If you don't mind, it don't matter.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MrWhoopee View Post

                    Increases the throat from 2" to 5-1/2". Milling away an unnecessary rib gets 6" throat.


                    Out of curiosity, what motor are you running? TEFC? 1,750 rpm? hp?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MrWhoopee View Post

                      Increases the throat from 2" to 5-1/2". Milling away an unnecessary rib gets 6" throat.
                      What makes it unnecessary please tell?

                      -D
                      DZER

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Doozer View Post

                        What makes it unnecessary please tell?

                        -D
                        Yes, please do tell!

                        It looks as if it would increase bending resistance, improving the section modulus etc for the part. Seems at least good, if not necessary. The casting looks very skinny in that area... out of proportion without that rib.
                        CNC machines only go through the motions.

                        Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                        Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                        Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                        I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                        Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by J Tiers View Post

                          Yes, please do tell!

                          It looks as if it would increase bending resistance, improving the section modulus etc for the part. Seems at least good, if not necessary. The casting looks very skinny in that area... out of proportion without that rib.
                          Look at the OPs saw, where the "CO" is. That rib is not needed in the configuration he has it in. For horizontal use yes, for his use I dont see it. Plus it looks like there is another rib right behind it. Im not an engineer like you folks though? Id cut it. JR

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                          • #14
                            Here are a few more details to throw into the mix. The rib being discussed looks to be an inch deep when viewed on the wheel/blade side. However it is reinforced on the back side, which takes up 1/2 of the rib depth. Unless one wants to gut the frame and cut out the reinforcement too, there is only 1/2" of throat depth to be gained. Is an extra half inch worth losing a bit of rigidity? Maybe, but the rib may help dampen vibration in some way, who knows?

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                            • #15
                              Tmate, my saw is very similar and has the same ribs. Do not cut any of them! Chinese are usually saving every penny on materials and they would not put it there unless absolutely necessary. Seriously, cast iron is not the best material for bending. Leave it alone, you do not want to break the frame.

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