MT2 shank x 3/4" end mill looking for good home

[BCRider]

Another bit of tooling that came in a bitsa box and which I've never been able to use since nothing I've got is set up for MT2 stuff of this sort. It likely would require cutting away the tang and drill for a draw bar to make it useable on a mill. But in the meantime it is what you see.

Made by Butterfield out of Quebec Canada. It's fairly sharp but has certainly been used or just slightly worn by shop rash. So it'll likely be useable for the short term but will likely require sharpening fairly soon.

As per usual with such things I'm looking to be reimbursed purely for the cost of mailing it.

[Richard P Wilson]

End mills with taper shanks were common in tool catalogues pre WW2, but I've never known how you were supposed to keep them secure in the spindle when they had a tanged end with no provision for a drawbar. Parallel shank Endmills can be prone to pulling out of their collets if not really securely tightened, so how on earth did it work with taper shank ones when side cutting?

[Doozer]

If it is an end mill with a tang shank, then it will have a Brown & Sharpe taper (1/2" per foot).
If it is a jig bore reamer with a tang shank, then it will have a Morse taper (5/8" per foot).
Drive the cutter into the taper using a piece of oak between your hammer as not to
hurt the cutting edges. No, the Brown & Sharpe taper will not pull out from side milling
forces, and you don't mill with a jig borer reamer.

-Doozer

[wierdscience]

I had a few of those laying around and converted them to straight shanks.

[JRouche]

[ATTACH=JSON]
As per usual with such things I'm looking to be reimbursed purely for the cost of mailing it.

Great offer BC.. It kinda looks like a reamer like what Doz said. I am only writing to comment on your measuring tape modification, I like it! I have a couple around here just like it. Comes in handy. JR

[LKeithR]

If it is an end mill with a tang shank, then it will have a Brown & Sharpe taper (1/2" per foot).
If it is a jig bore reamer with a tang shank, then it will have a Morse taper (5/8" per foot).
Drive the cutter into the taper using a piece of oak between your hammer as not to
hurt the cutting edges. No, the Brown & Sharpe taper will not pull out from side milling
forces, and you don't mill with a jig borer reamer.

-Doozer

Yeah, I've never seen a true end mill with a Morse Taper shank; just wouldn't work. Most likely it was
just used for finishing precise dimension holes...

[old mart]

I would avoid using something like that for anything more than counterboring. I happened to see a MT shank with tang, milling cutter, either for inserts or a sidelock type listed in the current Bison catalogue.
Unfortunately that 5/8" per foot Morse taper is not correct, every MT size has a different taper, why, I will never know.

[Toolguy]

As near as I can tell from reading the history, the Morse tapers were supposed to all be the same, but whoever made the original ones was a bit off on when they made the different sizes, and we've been stuck with the errors ever since. At least that's my take on it. YMMV

[Doozer]

...
Unfortunately that 5/8" per foot Morse taper is not correct, every MT size has a different taper, why, I will never know.

Nothing unfortunate about it.
If you are going to try and cut a Morse taper
based what some azzhole on the internet said
using exactly 5/8" per foot,
then that is the unfortunate part.

-Doozer

[old mart]

I have cut one male MT2 using the taper turning attachment on the lathe and found that you have to be correct to about +- 2 seconds of arc. The only way I got it right was with a new socket and engineers blue, plus patience.

[Doozer]

Exactly.

I try to set them up and grind them on my cylindrical grinder when I can.
It has a DRO so I can set the rise over run pretty easily.

-D

[Richard P Wilson]

I hate to disagree with the clever folks on here, but I'm lookng at a 1940 tooling catalogue, and it lists High Speed Milling Cutters (NOT Jig bore reamers) with tanged .Morse taper shanks.

I have noticed though,that BC Rider's one in his photo has a right hand spiral to the flutes, which will tend to draw down when side milling, but the ones in the 1940 catalogue have left hand spiral flutes, which will (I think) tend to push the cutter upwards when side cutting. Maybe this is why they worked before drawbars became common.

[old mart]

They probably went out of fashion after many came loose in the taper. And Bridgeport came up with the R8 specifically for smaller milling work.

[BCRider]

If any of you are wondering why I didn't simply turn down the shank and use it that's because I've got no way of sharpening it. And it seemed silly for me to modify it and get only minimal use from it before it went into the bucket of dull end mills if there was someone that could actually use it as is and where the cost or effort to sharpen it would be justified.

If it's a counter bore than it's certainly an odd one. I can't imagine "proper" counterbores needing to side cut like this one is clearly designed and intended.

Interesting thought about it perhaps being a reamer. But it seems very short for a proper reamer. The reason reamers tend to be long is so they will slightly flex and self align. This one would rely on the quill being dead on true. So I tend to think it's not a reamer.

[BCRider]

Great offer BC.. It kinda looks like a reamer like what Doz said. I am only writing to comment on your measuring tape modification, I like it! I have a couple around here just like it. Comes in handy. JR

It's where my damaged tape measures go... I've got them in a few lengths at each machine and bench for quick and casual measurements.