shaft gripper

[darryl]

By the way, that last example is interesting. Nice work on the whole project- the layout of the saw cuts is interesting-

[BCRider]

Have a look at what I did for my SPINDEXER FLIP PROJECT to lock the indexing wheel to the main shaft. The pictures of the part you want are in Post number 2 (I know better than to use the hachetag number symbol around here these days ).... It's a sort of collet but uses a split ring clamp with cross screw for the clamping forces. The flange sort of design would also be perfect for securing to the wood drum you mentioned. In fact if the flange were made double sided like I did for the spindexer the wood would be centered by the round tube portion inside the drum as well as secured well with multiple screws or through bolts between the flanges on each side of the drum.

Originally I cut the slots shown then was thinking about milling some circumferential grooves part way into each of the thinner portion adjacent to the flange. That way the tabs would be shaped more like a "T" where the locking ring flexed the arms of the "T" very easily. But with the bore done as a close slip fit, easily moved by hand, I found that it simply was not needed. A few inch ounces resulted in a grip that I could not move with all the grip and torque that I could muster by hand. And in use I'm torquing the screw to about three times that much with just two fingers. It ain't going anywhere.

As for balance the flanges in the wood hub would be fully symmetrical. And if the locking collar was made wide enough that the clamping screw is fully enclosed it would balance about like a full steel ring. So no vibration.

[darryl]

Hmm- that looks like a good idea, Rider. It would work for my existing flanges- even better probably if I undercut the hub into the flange part for perhaps half the thickness of the flange. I did machine the hubs for a close fit, so there isn't much flex required in the tabs to crush down that last bit. I can remount the flanges in the jig I made so I can machine the OD on the hub

[metalfixer]

Flange shaft collars are also available,
might work. Aluminum, steel and stainless steel.

[Mike sandor]

You can get these in most sizes. They grip on both the id. and od.

[BCRider]

Metalfixer's flange with the keyway would be a very nice option for something with significant power. The setup on my spindexer tightens really well. But I'm not sure that on the much smaller 3/4" shaft that it would be able to hold against the torque of much more than a half HP motor. And the last thing you want is to get any slippage that just makes the whole works unusable.

Since there's a motor involved I think I'd want a drive key as part of whatever I were to use.

[elf]

Strap wrench.

[Doozer]

Maybe a smaller version of this could work.

Dude, that is beautiful !

The other day I google searched Locking Collars at work.
Got a bunch of sex dungeon accessories.
I guess that kind of stuff is more popular to search the internet for
than engineering type of stuff. LOL

-D

[Tundra Twin Track]

Dude, that is beautiful !

The other day I google searched Locking Collars at work.
Got a bunch of sex dungeon accessories.
I guess that kind of stuff is more popular to search the internet for
than engineering type of stuff. LOL

-D

Thanks Doozer

[Black Forest]

How quick is quick? Do you want it just turn a knob and slide the hub and then re-tighten knob? Or would loosening three or six cap head screws be OK?

[Mcgyver]

I've always viewed split cotters as the best approach to have an adjustable way to clamp onto a shaft , most clamping power for the torque, fast and easy to use, compact and neat looking, doesn't harm the shaft.

[reggie_obe]

How quick is quick? Do you want it just turn a knob and slide the hub and then re-tighten knob? Or would loosening three or six cap head screws be OK?

Pipe wrench

[wdtom]

Could you use a taper lock bushing? They are made to use with a key but grip pretty good without one. You could use a pulley or such with the female taper or make a bushing to hold with a lathe chuck that you bore a female taper in.

[darryl]

I'm good with using three allen head set screws or similar per hub. That's quick enough. They need to be radial so I can get at them. Using a taper loc would certainly work, but as far as I know, those are tightened using screws in the axial direction. At least the ones I've used are. They work well, but I would lose some working space on the shaft, which I don't want to do. I've decided to go with my latest idea, which I detailed in the new thread, revisiting the shaft collar- I think that's what I called it. Been quite out of sorts lately, and trying to get all this figured out under an illness. A bit forgetful and not well focused lately-