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Playing with the new RT

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  • Playing with the new RT




    Results from playing with the new RT. I am building a finger engine for a 'filler' projectl. I had to break down the set up to do another quick project. I hope to get back on it soon to wrap it up.

    In case someone is thinking it, a lathe would by far be the better choice for this application, but I can't seen to locate one in my shop!
    Why buy it for $2 when you can make it for $20

  • #2
    Arent they fun! Just think of all the cool things you will be making for your buddies that dont have one. There will be a line at your door soon.

    rock-
    Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.

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    • #3
      Is that a Phase II? If so do the table locks really lock?

      I've been wanting an 8" because the 12" I have takes up too much room on the mill and it's to freakin heavy.

      And yes they are fun
      I just need one more tool,just one!

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      • #4
        Darin, them twelve inchers are hemorrhoid makers. The RT's that is.

        Originally posted by Wareagle
        In case someone is thinking it, a lathe would by far be the better choice for this application, but I can't seen to locate one in my shop!
        Did you do the recess on the mill too? Great work!

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        • #5
          WS,
          I have an 8" PII RT and have been quite happy with it. The table locks seem to hold just fine. After I bought it, I also got the tailstock and dividing plate set, but have never needed either (so far!). Have used the table quite a bit on a couple of model engine projects.

          I did have a problem: was milling a round-bottom slot with a ball-end mill and the thing was chattering a bit, causing back-and-forth vibration in the table. "Something" caused the thing to gall up, and I had to disassemble the table to clean up the boogers. Getting it apart was easy, once I figured out that the table locks had to come apart first.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jdunmyer
            WS,
            I have an 8" PII RT and have been quite happy with it. The table locks seem to hold just fine. After I bought it, I also got the tailstock and dividing plate set, but have never needed either (so far!). Have used the table quite a bit on a couple of model engine projects.

            I did have a problem: was milling a round-bottom slot with a ball-end mill and the thing was chattering a bit, causing back-and-forth vibration in the table. "Something" caused the thing to gall up, and I had to disassemble the table to clean up the boogers. Getting it apart was easy, once I figured out that the table locks had to come apart first.
            Did you notice any casting sand or other foul material inside?I had an 8"India made unit that was full of sand and CI chipsIt has been converted into a welding positioner
            I just need one more tool,just one!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by CCWKen
              Darin, them twelve inchers are hemorrhoid makers. The RT's that is.


              Boy,the "things" some people know about here
              I just need one more tool,just one!

              Comment


              • #8
                I have been told that hauling around "My big 10 inch" would make the girls go nuts. I cant imagine what a 12" would do.

                Sorry, had to be said.
                rock-
                Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by wierdscience
                  Is that a Phase II? If so do the table locks really lock?
                  Yes, it is a 10" Phase II table. The locks seem to hold, though I haven't really 'loaded' it yet. It is real smooth, and there is very little backlash. In my opinion, it is a good table for the money, and it should serve me well for the things I do.

                  CCWKen, I did the recess with a 1/2" end mill, and then used a 3/8" ball end mill to finish the recess. Afterward, I spot drilled seven places to bore holes into it at a later time.

                  Unfortunately, I was volunteered (got to love that!) to build two small two-wheeled dollys for my son's school, so I have had to slide the flywheel back in line for a bit. Oh well, I know the kids will have fun with them!
                  Why buy it for $2 when you can make it for $20

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                  • #10
                    CCW they are not hemorrhoid makers they hernia makers. Hernia you get in the front, hemorrhoids you get 'somewhere' in the back, ha ha. I am not sure we spell it right, but we know what we are talking about, don't we. Vic

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                    • #11
                      Where'd you get it? I need a H/V RT.....

                      Andy Pullen
                      Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, Clausing 8520 mill, Diacro 24" shear, Reed Prentice 14" x 34"

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                      • #12
                        {. Hernia you get in the front, hemorrhoids you get 'somewhere' in the back,} Tell ya what, when you catch and hold over 1000 lbs. of steel to keep from getting crushed and disemboweled at the same instant; that causes alot more problems than those 2 , even those are included. All it takes is 1 stupid person in a hurry , on a forklift turning a corner, when you see it coming, you will catch it instead of being crushed. I still remember his astonished fear, thought he had killed me. The degenerative part is what gets you.

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                        • #13
                          I have always found rotary table work to be fascinating.
                          To see and end mill machine a curved surface on a rod end is a satisfying thing.

                          I had a precision taper bored hole in an odd shaped plate to do in a job.

                          The lathe faceplate with counterweights was a pia. I set the mill head over with a sin bar by tramming, and indicated the pre-bored hole in on the rotary table.

                          A carbide end mill did a quick and accurate job.

                          On my 3 pound cannon, I milled the wheel fellows (42â€‌ wheels) to true them up on the old 8â€‌ rotary table I had.

                          I have spoked out many gear blanks, train wheels, cut teeth, made dog clutches, bolt circles, radial, and angular holes for various projects over the years.

                          I don't use it every day, but when I do, I get a special satisfaction from it.

                          Good accessories for the rotary are a three jaw chuck, sub extension plate with lots of threaded holes, a threaded plug to press fit under the table for center clamping, and a system of centering pins to locate from the center hole of the table.

                          Below is machining the trunions on a mini. Swivel gun on the rotary table with a three jaw chuck.









                          Cheers,

                          Kap

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                          • #14
                            Kap, what I can see of it..that is one nice set-up. Wish you had a bigger pic.

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                            • #15
                              WS,
                              I didn't really notice any casting sand in the unit, but that's probably what caused the galling, as it did seem to be lubricated well enough.

                              It's not something that I use a lot, but there's times that nothing else (in MY shop!) will do.

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