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I have not yet resolved the method I'm going to use to make a flange grip onto a shaft without marking the shaft. My first idea was to use 3 keys with set screws behind them. Someone said use a nylon nub in front of the set screw so there's no marking. Now I'm thinking of using that same basic method, but in a different way. The idea now is to drill three equally spaced holes such that they overlap into the subsequent bore that fits the shaft. The 'keys' in this case would be short round sections of brass rod that would be a slightly loose fit into the holes. Each piece has a slot cut into one side, which is where the set screw would nest into it. This means that even when loose, the parts can't go anywhere and get lost.
Because these short brass sections are slightly loose in their holes, I can use some paper to wedge them towards the outside of those three holes. With the set screws snug I can machine the bore, which means I'll be taking material off the brass pieces, leaving them with the exact curvature of the shaft. With the paper removed, each piece is now free to move inwards by a few thou, which means it can grip.
A couple things I like about this method- it gives grip every 120 degrees, which could mean that the flange is kept fairly well centered- it's also much easier to make as it's mostly drilling- and the parts don't fall out when loosened. Another thing I like is that the brass rides the shaft for the most part, not the aluminum bore in the flanges.
For the flanges I'm making, the thing that does the work is the screws I'll use to attach each flange to the sanding drum. I really don't have to make a flange out of it at all- I can just leave the aluminum discs their full thickness. All that means is I use longer screws to attach them to the drum. That helps anyway, as those screws will have less tendency to tilt and rip out of the wood. The set screws can be centered in the thickness of the disc, which probably means the disc will run more true.
I'm really kind of liking this idea- which could mean there's a flaw in it which I haven't considered yet. Ok, flame away-
Because these short brass sections are slightly loose in their holes, I can use some paper to wedge them towards the outside of those three holes. With the set screws snug I can machine the bore, which means I'll be taking material off the brass pieces, leaving them with the exact curvature of the shaft. With the paper removed, each piece is now free to move inwards by a few thou, which means it can grip.
A couple things I like about this method- it gives grip every 120 degrees, which could mean that the flange is kept fairly well centered- it's also much easier to make as it's mostly drilling- and the parts don't fall out when loosened. Another thing I like is that the brass rides the shaft for the most part, not the aluminum bore in the flanges.
For the flanges I'm making, the thing that does the work is the screws I'll use to attach each flange to the sanding drum. I really don't have to make a flange out of it at all- I can just leave the aluminum discs their full thickness. All that means is I use longer screws to attach them to the drum. That helps anyway, as those screws will have less tendency to tilt and rip out of the wood. The set screws can be centered in the thickness of the disc, which probably means the disc will run more true.
I'm really kind of liking this idea- which could mean there's a flaw in it which I haven't considered yet. Ok, flame away-
Could get expensive though-
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