Slitting saw arbor design

[DennisCA]

Low profile solution

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRQPv4AG2HQ

[Paul Alciatore]

My experience?

I have made two or three slitting saw arbors. Although I usually am big on designing on paper, I did not do any drawings for them. My construction was simpler with just two pieces: the shank with an integral flange and a cap to hold the saw on it. Oh, and a cap screw, of course. Here's how I made them.

I started with 3/4" bolts. IIRC, they were grade 5 bolts and about 4" long. A 3/4" bolt's thread has a minor diameter greater than 1/2" so it can be turned down to that size for the shank. And the head provides the metal for an integral flange. These two features allow a nice flange without the need to remove a lot of stock for the shank.

In the lathe I gripped the bolts by the head in a three jaw and center drilled the threaded end. Then installed a BB center and turned the shank of the screws down to 1/2" for the full length. I believe I finished the under side of the heads at this time as it was exposed, facing outward.

Then I turned them around and mounted them in a 1/2" collet in the lathe. Center drilled and tapped for the cap screw (1/4-20 or #10-32). I turned the OD to about 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" diameter. I faced the end and turned a short diameter to match the hole in the saw, facing the end leaving that saw hole diameter a bit shorter than the thickness of the saw. Then I undercut all of that face about 1/10" deep except for the outer 1/8", continuing the saw hole diameter into the undercut. This provides the grip on the saw at the outer diameter of the flange for greater stability.

Then a piece of 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" diameter stock (to match the flange created above) was turned to make a clamping washer with a center hole to match the selected cap screw. It also has a undercut for all except the outer 1/8". This clamping washer can be made somewhat thin and a countersunk cap screw can be used to allow the slitting saw to cut close to a feature that would otherwise interfere with it.

I do not add any wrench features. The mill and lathe spindles can be locked to allow me to tighten or loosen the screw in the arbor. This has worked for me. Or, in a pinch, the shank could be gripped in soft jaws (aluminum or oak) on my bench vise. And I make individual arbors for each slitting saw so there is no need to change them often.

That is my experience. And they work well.

[elf]

My experience?

I have made two or three slitting saw arbors. Although I usually am big on designing on paper, I did not do any drawings for them. My construction was simpler with just two pieces: the shank with an integral flange and a cap to hold the saw on it. Oh, and a cap screw, of course. Here's how I made them.

I started with 3/4" bolts. IIRC, they were grade 5 bolts and about 4" long. A 3/4" bolt's thread has a minor diameter greater than 1/2" so it can be turned down to that size for the shank. And the head provides the metal for an integral flange. These two features allow a nice flange without the need to remove a lot of stock for the shank.

In the lathe I gripped the bolts by the head in a three jaw and center drilled the threaded end. Then installed a BB center and turned the shank of the screws down to 1/2" for the full length. I believe I finished the under side of the heads at this time as it was exposed, facing outward.

Then I turned them around and mounted them in a 1/2" collet in the lathe. Center drilled and tapped for the cap screw (1/4-20 or #10-32). I turned the OD to about 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" diameter. I faced the end and turned a short diameter to match the hole in the saw, facing the end leaving that saw hole diameter a bit shorter than the thickness of the saw. Then I undercut all of that face about 1/10" deep except for the outer 1/8", continuing the saw hole diameter into the undercut. This provides the grip on the saw at the outer diameter of the flange for greater stability.

Then a piece of 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" diameter stock (to match the flange created above) was turned to make a clamping washer with a center hole to match the selected cap screw. It also has a undercut for all except the outer 1/8". This clamping washer can be made somewhat thin and a countersunk cap screw can be used to allow the slitting saw to cut close to a feature that would otherwise interfere with it.

I do not add any wrench features. The mill and lathe spindles can be locked to allow me to tighten or loosen the screw in the arbor. This has worked for me. Or, in a pinch, the shank could be gripped in soft jaws (aluminum or oak) on my bench vise. And I make individual arbors for each slitting saw so there is no need to change them often.

That is my experience. And they work well.

What is a 'BB center'?

[DrMike]

"BB" = ball bearing.
In other words, a live center.

[Doozer]

How about you use terms like LIVE CENTER or like DEAD CENTER ? ? ?
Why change tradition after like 200 years !~!~!
Sorry for being such a CROTCH CENTER.

-D

[J Tiers]

How about you use terms like LIVE CENTER or like DEAD CENTER ? ? ?
Why change tradition after like 200 years !~!~!
Sorry for being such a CROTCH CENTER.

-D

WHICH "live center"? Used to be that was the one in the headstock..... cuz it turns. At least some older texts call it that....

Probably were not any rotating T/S centers 200 years ago.

[mikey553]

Thank you guys for your help. I have learned a few things from you. I have also watched all 3 YouTube videos from Stefan Gotteswinter (thanks Dennis). What's interesting is my two small arbors were almost identical copy of Stefan's design and I did not watch these videos before. I like Stefan's videos a lot and have a great respect for him. He goes into small details of each project and does not hide important information.

So my bigger arbors would be of a similar design and I will use wrench flats. But my caps would not have a threaded end. Instead I will use a single socket head cap screw, This will make the arbor simpler and stronger. There will be no keys on these arbors.

[Paul Alciatore]

Yes, Ball Bearing or LIVE center.

I like using my ball bearing or live center, but I guess any center would do.

"BB" = ball bearing.
In other words, a live center.

[Paul Alciatore]

My apologies to 200 years of machinists.

In my defense, the term "ball bearing center" does return a lot of search results:

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=ball+bearing+center

So I am not the only one to use it.

Have they really been around for 200 years? 1820s?? I don't know so I'm just asking. An internet search revealed no results on this. Do you have any references?

How about you use terms like LIVE CENTER or like DEAD CENTER ? ? ?
Why change tradition after like 200 years !~!~!
Sorry for being such a CROTCH CENTER.

-D

[elf]

Try a search for 'BB Center'.

[BCRider]

.....What's interesting is my two small arbors were almost identical copy of Stefan's design and I did not watch these videos before........

There's still the principle of "parallel good ideas". Clearly you and Stefan think alike ! ! ! !

[DennisCA]

BB reminds me of Beavis & Butthead and the thought of those in a metal shop is terrifying.

[J Tiers]

My apologies to 200 years of machinists.

In my defense, the term "ball bearing center" does return a lot of search results:

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=ball+bearing+center

So I am not the only one to use it.

Have they really been around for 200 years? 1820s?? I don't know so I'm just asking. An internet search revealed no results on this. Do you have any references?

Just check to see when ball bearings were introduced.

[strokersix]

Seems to me that, given sufficient need, hydrodynamic bearing could be used in a live center arrangement. Pressure fed, perhaps. So ball bearings not required.

I have no example of such. Just a thought.

[luthor]

I made these two arbors to the design and dimensions of the Weldon Stub Arbor a long time ago, on fits a 3/4" sidelock holder and other is 1.0".