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Remove surface grinder wheel hub from tapered spindle, how to?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Mark Rand View Post
    If you haven't got the correct puller, or there aren't enough threads on the hub to screw it on (normally LH thread!), then the wheel/hub can normally be freed up from the spindle with a few light taps from the back with a hammer handle or similar, after removing the retaining nut (also normally LH thread).
    That's how I did it hundreds if not thousands of times. Light tap from a brass hammer to the back of the hub. Easy peasy. I've never had one the took much to get it loose but then we used our grinders. If it has been sitting for decades with the same wheel it might be different but I'd still try tapping it.
    OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

    THINK HARDER

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

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    • #17
      Nice.. Tapers are kinda weird. They hold tight for their designed shape. Long taper, short taper? JR

      I like a long taper. Takes up too much space though.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by john hobdeclipe View Post
        Most tool grinders and smaller surface grinders that use interchangeable hubs will be "Standard Taper" of 3" per foot and 1" large diameter. There are exceptions. Cincinnati Taper is different, and the hubs for Delta Rockwell "ToolMaker" grinders are different, to name a couple. Standard Taper hubs usually have threads for a puller.

        But there are some imported machines that have a taper very similar to the 3" / foot, but don't use a puller. The instruction manual clearly states to remove the locking nut or bolt, then strike the end of the shaft using a brass or hardwood block.
        The Delta Toolmaker grinder uses that same 3” per foot taper, but it is only 7/8” at the large end. I’d love to have a few more hubs for mine, but not quite enough to pay new Sopko prices. Anyone have any?

        That 3” per foot taper is theoretically into the self-releasing range, so why do they sell pullers for the hubs? Shouldn’t need them, right? The hubs should fall right off. Well, even with good spindle bores and hubs they usually stick pretty nicely. Same with the NMTB40 taper in my mill. The mill, of course, has a drawbar to rap on to pop the toolholder. Too bad the grinder doesn’t, but as it’s a different arrangement - with the male taper on the spindle - that wouldn’t work.

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