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  • #16
    How far are You away from Ohio? Just asking.............
    mark costello-Low speed steel


    • #17
      To echo what deltap mentions in post # 12, it seems that these three bladed molding heads had a 45 degree vee bade as one of the options. If your DIY version doesn't work as well as you would like, there do seem to be a lot of these on ebay and the like. Somebody nearby here has one on Craigslist, which is where I snagged these photos from:

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      Click image for larger version  Name:	cutter3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	75.1 KB ID:	2062974
      Attached Files


      • #18
        For the shape you're after this is still a crazy amount of work to make a V cut. Especially when it's two 45's that can meet up at the apex perfectly. Two passes over a tilted blade and you're done. Use a good proper rip tooth blade and you likely won't even need to sand it.

        And if you really insist on doing such a cutter that uses the square inserts more commonly intended for shapers and planers (or on the end of carbide tipped wood turning chisels) then I'd suggest a thick plate like the Craftsman molding head but done with milled pockets like a face mill but aimed outward. Then your screws can hold the inserts in against proper metal rather than JB weld.

        And besides, that shaper head is thick for a few reasons. A thin saw plate isn't intended for any possible side loads like you'll get with the inserts cutting a "V" groove. And that's why all of the shaper heads intended for use on saws seen in this thread are all made from thick plate.
        Last edited by BCRider; 09-16-2023, 10:07 PM.
        Chilliwack BC, Canada


        • #19
          I get it. I have not done anything more with it yet. Also comes to mind that a solid pin, piece of music wire perhaps, would make a better retaining pin. If this pin is pressed into a holder, it can take the place of the holding screw- the holder now must be solidly attached to the body so it doesn't fly off, and it has to compress down on the insert. I think my plan now is to make a short strap from sheet steel that will screw into place on top of the insert, and still use the holder screw, but also another screw to hold the strap to the body- or what I would prefer to do is make the strap with wings that fold to fit the body, then rivet.

          Lots to think about, lots to learn. The project is on hold until my ceiling gets insulated- and that's been my priority today.
          I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


          • #20

            The inserts that you're using - these are the ones specifically for woodworking I guess - these kind of things:

            As long as you have the type with a decent size centre hole and the set screw sits well in the centre hole, you'll probably be ok. My understanding is that the JB weld is to hold stuff in place until the set screws take over all of the holding function, yes? The packs of inserts often come with set screws - maybe use those? They're designed for the job, fit nicely and are usually as tough as hell.

            All of the gear, no idea...


            • #21
              Something to consider..... The inserts and head shown in post #17 are fool proof. They have the proper rake for smooth cutting. When a cutter profile is inclined for the positive rake the profile has to be altered from perfectly square.

              Google on hand grinding shaper cutters to better understand how the rake has to be accounted for in the cutter profile. Basically what this means is a square insert set with positive rake would not give a square cut profile. But for this application perfectly square may not matter.