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How to install a tapping head?

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  • How to install a tapping head?

    Hello,

    As you can tell I have now experience with tapping heads, but I will soon. I need to know, if I bought a used tapping head with a 1/2" straight arbor, is that intended to be put in the chuck of a drill press. I have a cheap floor standing drill press which accepts MT2, but a straight shank Procunier has come up on eBay. I guess What I need to know is should I wait for a tapping head that has an MT2 arbor installed, or will a straight shank in a drill press chuck work as well?

    Thanks for your help,
    Tom

  • #2
    Doesn't really matter,most tapping heads have some flexabilty built into the unit so they can self center the tap in the hole being threaded.You shouldn't have any trouble using that in a chuck.

    You are aware also though that there is a torque arm involved right?It's just a piece of bar stock that sticks out the side of the tap head and rests up agains the column of the drill press.I used a bungie cord to hold mine to the column before I got fancy and made a yoke with a couple bearings to glide on the column pipe.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

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    • #3
      Generally speaking, the direct mount is the better choice.

      The direct mount MT#2 will take up less distance between the drill press head and the table than the chuck mounted unit. It may also have a little less runout and less of a tendency to slip.

      Many of the tapping heads have replaceable shanks, and a straight shank can be replaced with an MT shank. Check with the seller if it is an integral or replaceable shank.
      Jim H.

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      • #4
        I've rebuilt a number of Procunier tapping heads over the years. I worked in a shop that used them almost exclusively and thousands of holes would get tapped each week with one. We had about 10 of them in the shop and they were great. I've tapped from 0-80 threads to 3/4"-10 threads with them in 3 different sizes.

        Parts are available out of Florida, but I think they have a minimum. To replace the shank is easy: remove the top cover and either a snap ring or a nut holds the shank (brain fart....it's been a few years) and the ball bearings in place. Actually, the shank may just be press fit into the bearings and the nut just keeps the shank from coming out of the bearings.

        I personally would also say to go with a morse taper shank. It will get you up closer to the drill spindle bearings and minimize runout as a previous poster said. I drilled the drilling machine spindle for a setscrew to hold the tapping head securely in place as well. You can file or grind a little notch in the shank to accept the screw. It can get exciting when a tapping head comes out of the spindle! (not to mention dangerous!)

        While you're ordering parts for your head; get a clutch for it, too. Check for loose sleeve bearings down in the bottom and replace them, too. A good grade of machine oil will lube everything properly. www.procunier.com is the url...

        A piece of Tygon tubing pushed over the stop rod will also minmize the noise of the stop rod vibrating on the column of your drill. And wire it to the column to keep it from swinging back on you.

        Yell if you have any other questions....

        Andy Pullen
        Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, Clausing 8520 mill, Diacro 24" shear, Reed Prentice 14" x 34"

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        • #5
          You shouldn't have to "bungie cord" or "wire" the arm to the column at all. I run tapping heads all the time and the arm will just rest against the column. When you pull back up it still swings against the column. If you wire it or cord it, there is a chance of binding the arm in the up and down motion although it won't hurt anything.
          If it's not good enough for you, it's sure not good enough for anyone else.

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          • #6
            Thanks for all of the good advise. Which side of the column should the torque arm be on?

            Comment


            • #7
              Well, this topic is now moot. I just bought a Rigid Versatapper with a MT2 arbor, and it has a crafty Y attachment which surrounds the drill press column.

              Thanks though for all of your help, this is a great forum,
              Tom

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Kevin45
                You shouldn't have to "bungie cord" or "wire" the arm to the column at all. I run tapping heads all the time and the arm will just rest against the column. When you pull back up it still swings against the column. If you wire it or cord it, there is a chance of binding the arm in the up and down motion although it won't hurt anything.

                The Tapmatic literature specifically says not to ever constrain the torque arm to the column. It's supposed to be able to swing freely. Not sure exactly why.

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                • #9
                  The original topic was how to mount a tapping head.

                  How many here have used tapping heads with Morse taper mounts and had the head fall out when withdrawing the tap? If you haven't had the experience I'm guessing you haven't done much tapping.

                  The above situation is one of the reasons I hate Morse tapers in small drill presses. Get a decent drill press with a 1/2" capacity chuck with the locking collar, no more problems with things falling out of the spindle. I believe the Jacob's chuck number is something like 34-33C. "C" referring to the locking collar.

                  Unfortunately, most of the import junk come with Morse taper in the spindle. Never could figure out the reasoning behind that, although if you look at some of those dp's it makes you wonder if there ever was any reasoning behind the design.

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                  • #10
                    Now you have me worried. This is an imported junky drill press, Mach1? Is there any way to keep it from coming out?

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                    • #11
                      Per Andy Pullen's advice, drill & tap the spindle for a setscrew and grind a flat on the MT arbor for it. This is the standard fix.
                      Jim H.

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                      • #12
                        Weld the holy POOP out of it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JCHannum
                          Per Andy Pullen's advice, drill & tap the spindle for a setscrew and grind a flat on the MT arbor for it. This is the standard fix.
                          Yep, been there, done that. It's a pain don't you think? They use a spindle that's supposed to be self locking and you have to modify it to hold the tool?

                          Do they tell you to do the drilling modification in the operating manual of the dp? Most likely, not. How many spindles are damaged because tools slipped out?

                          Some of the spindles I've seen on junk dp's have the Morse tape way up inside as opposed being the more common extension down from the main spindle. Can you drill them?

                          Can anybody come up with a good reason for the Morse's in smallish (15"+/- throat) dirll presses.

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                          • #14
                            [[How many spindles are damaged because tools slipped out?]] Bunches! I never had a slip using the large radial drills; even using up to a 4" CORE DRILL, BUT SLIP OUT ON THE SMALL dp'S. tHAT'S A COMMON FIX, BUT NOT IN A MANUAL. Caps lock? Tears the hell out of one's hands also.

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                            • #15
                              Ok, how do you go about drilling & tapping the spindle? Is this a tear apart the drill press project?

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