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  • #16
    I had a similar problem cutting some aluminum, .125 thick, and we had to cut it all the way through.

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    • #17
      I had to test this as its been a while since my last post.

      We ended up cutting .010 to .015 thick or depth of cut, running the cnc bridgeport at 4000 rpm, and taking ten cuts to get through the material. I ended up using a two flute carbide cutter, with spray coolant, almost all air with just a thin mist on the cutter, and we also put dish detergent in the crease that we cut. We did this after each pass to try to get some lubrication on the cutting edges. We have four "sheets" to cut, each one taking 90 minutes per pass.

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      • #18
        Rotate, that's exactly what they are, and thanks for the heads up. I have no plans for them, other than the short sticks of 1/8" carbide I'll have left after I break them all. Well, I DO hope to get some use out of them first, but I expect some cheap entertainment between now and then. We've got a laser engraver at work. And you think "Laser, wow, we can cut anything!" That's how 'carbide' strikes you too, until you learn otherwise. It's almost a sure bet for woodworking, but I've found a drawer full of carbide cutters for metal are mostly good for filling the drawer.
        I'm here hoping to advancify my smartitude.

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        • #19
          Hey YF
          I did ! probably should write it up for HSM.

          I took a piece of Aluminum 1.25 thick X 5" wide by 10" long (approx) and made it colon shaped (!)
          Laid it flat in the mill and
          Bored it 3 5/8" at the big end and about 2 1/4 with a web of about 2 inches between the bores. then I cross drilled the web and tapped the bottom 3/8 -16.
          Then I slotted (saw cut)between the two bores.
          Slipped the big bore onto the BridgePort quill and dropped a straight shank die grinder (dremal!) into the smaller bore (both are snug fits !) and tightened the unit with the cross screw...works slick..
          one clamp screw and I now have a high speed tool for small cutters on the Bridgeport
          and can feed it up or down etc....

          One caution, NO endplay allowed on the small grinder spindle . small cutters don't tolerate it well.

          I mill down to .032 without a problem.
          Love Carbide...no flex.

          Beware of the Boxed Deals ( 50 Cutters !!!)

          I just sent 3 boxes back to a large company ( un-named here )advertised as "NEW". The 50 had one endmill, 6 router bits, one microscribe and the rest drills, mostly .0135 and .0115 in each box.
          The scribes were nothing more than broken drill shanks, and mill cutters and routers were used ! Found Phenolic chips stuck to flutes and radiused/chipped corners (10 power glass)
          Green Bay, WI

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          • #20
            Albert
            Provided you severely clamp your work piece and eliminate slop in your feed screw the PC drills and router are quite capable of drilling taps or dies. Be warned, however, that even slight side pressure will snap them like glass (especially the wee ones).

            These bits do not wander unless the surface is tilted - they dig in and bite like crazy. Unless dull.

            I use a stereo microscope to observe machining progress with the micro mills. My eyepiece reticle has a .o10" scale and I use it to see if the end mill is starting to flex sideways excessively so feed can be adjusted. I also use diabetic needles to directly apply minute amounts of light tapping fluid as needed.

            http://www.kyoceratycom.com/ has a state of the art optical/fuzzy logic sharpener for these bits if you need them tuned up.

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