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  • OT Gorilla Glue

    If you have pets and use Gorilla Glue, you'll want to know about this...
    Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

  • #2
    Ooh ya,saw that in one of my woodworking mags awhile back,nasty stuff the vapors are also harmfull if you have asthma.
    I just need one more tool,just one!


    • #3
      As an ex woodworker (for a living) I've never understood the popularity of glues other than just standard yellow glue for woodworking purposes. Properly jointed boards, edge glued with common yellow glue...even common white glue for that matter....will make a joint stronger than the wood itself.

      You can prove this by dropping the glued boards from a great height and the boards will always crack somewhere other than the glue joint.

      So why would anyone spend extra for "Gorilla" glue other than marketing BS ?


      • #4
        "Stronger than the wood itself" is a tricky issue. There's shear, tensile, peel and any other kinds of strength testing. My own personal issue is heat stress. PVA and aliphatic resin glues become quite liquid, slipping and sliding in heat - say at the temperature achieved in a car parked in the sun. Good old fashioned hide glue retains a far greater proportion of its strength in that situation. So, for us in the guitar repair industry, yellow glue has its limitiations. . .

        Frank Ford


        • #5
          I think there are very good reasons, the ones I have!

          1) it is essentially waterproof. The other glues take up water, soften, or utterly fail in water.

          2) it is a "gap filling" glue, which will in fact fill gaps and actually add strength from that glue area. The others mostly tend to flow out from gaps, or add very little strength, if any, when they DO fill gaps. And when they dry, they shrink out of gaps.

          The expansion is water-catalyzed.... you need to have some trace amounts of water present to get the glue to "go". Blowing thru the joint usually is good enough.

          Aside from that, it is messy, a little temperamental, and btw it is messy. Did I mention the mess?
          Last edited by J Tiers; 09-02-2006, 01:01 AM.

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan


          • #6
            I've got a industrial surplus cart that I bought to use for mounting my belt grinders to roll them outside the shop to keep down the mess. It has large 8" Colson(sp?) double tire casters, and the "tires" started breaking up soon after I got it. I’ve glued the tires back on with Gorilla glue which is holding just fine so far. Try that with "white glue". There are a lot more uses for glue than just boards...
            Master Floor Sweeper


            • #7
              Originally posted by BadDog
              There are a lot more uses for glue than just boards...
              That's obvious enough, but I have the impression from "Gorilla" ads and the particular magazines I see them in, that Gorilla glue is marketed mainly for wood glue up usage. After a decade of building furniture every business day I can't think of a single instance where anything other than common yellow glue would have been any improvement. But as J point's out, perhaps Gorilla Glue is for "bad woodworking" where you need to fill gaps.. or marine woodwork.


              • #8

                I use gorilla glue under certain situations in musical instrument (oboe and clarinet) repair. These instruments are most often made of African Blackwood (aka Grenadilla) which is very dense and quite oily. When a crack occurs that runs through a tonehole, a common repair is to drill out the wood around the hole, plug it (usually with hard rubber or wood) and remachine it to the original dimensions. I like gorilla glue for this application because it is waterproof, adheres really well to the wood, and is flexible so the joint will not fail when the wood swells and shrinks due thermal and humidity changes.

                There is a bit of a mess, but I clean this up after about an hour, when the glue is done foaming but before it has completely set. At this point, you can scrape away the excess and remove the residue with lacquer thinner. After it is clean I reclamp it.

                I am always looking for something better. I don't like epoxy for this purpose (doesnt adhere as well to the oily wood) or cyanoacylate (too brittle). I have never tried yellow or white glues (moisture issues) or hide glue (how flexible is it?) Anyone have other ideas?


                • #9
                  For marine or aircraft applications the glue of choice is catalyzed resorcinol glue. When I worked on wooden aircraft nothing else was approved except some expoxies.


                  Two part resorcinol glue (Weldwood) works fine on oily wood and is the standard for gluing teak in marine applications.
                  Last edited by Evan; 09-02-2006, 02:45 AM.
                  Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                  • #10
                    On a side: The Gorilla glue folks make a tape similar in size to "duct tape". Stuff is expensive but very, very strong in stickiness and tear or pull strength. JRouche
                    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group



                    • #11
                      Yes, on a properly fitted long grain joint in an interior application, yellow glues excel, but this only one of many possibilities.

                      For furniture building, I pretty much always use aliphatic resin glue. For exterior projects, even those that will be under the covered porch, polyurethane glue is a better choice (although I have had good luck with PVA's like Titebond II in applications that will see damp, but not soaking wet environments).
                      While repairs to old and looser fitting joints benefit somewhat from the gap filling, I wouldn't count on it to add any significant amount of strength on anything that is more than a little loose.
                      I would suspect that its easier to get a stronger end grain joint with polyurethane glue, but I haven't done any actual testing to verify it.

                      The mess issue is considerably lessened by wearing latex or Nitrile glove.
                      Location: North Central Texas


                      • #12
                        Actually, haven't paid any attention to the adds. But I do agree on the wood glues. In fact, I just repaired some old wood pull out work surfaces (from an old desk) just last night using regular white glue (seems we are out of actual yellow wood glue). Never crossed my mind to use Gorilla Glue. I haven’t used it for long, but I find I like it for many types of things (like the tires) with materials that don’t readily accept white/yellow glue, but don’t rate epoxy. Strangely, I find I like it very well for most uses OTHER than wood, and the epoxy (both solid and liquid/paste forms) rarely gets much use any more unless I need formability and/or machine ability...
                        Master Floor Sweeper


                        • #13
                          I've brought up Gorilla Glue and Tape before. It works for cast iron to steel also. Back to the dog; I used to have pets, and protect them just like children, would you let your kids eat glue? Common sense should kick in once in awhile.


                          • #14
                            Perhaps they should make an episode of the Simpsons showing how not to use Gorrilla glue if they want to get it over to most of the population in the US ?


                            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


                            • #15
                              Yeah, or "King of the Hill". Hank could promote it with his Propane and propane accessories.