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  • Chinese lathe

    Hi Folks,
    After a bit of advice on my chinese lathe a Chester DB10B which has hardened and ground bed. The only problem I have had so far is when loosening the tail stock and moving it it jams. I had several goes at finding out what was causing it to jam and found that the under side of the bed is tapered towards the chuck, so my question is how do I remove this annoying taper ?
    If it proves to difficult I will live with - as they say you get what you pay for!!!
    I have tools I don't know how to use!!

  • #2

    If you feel under the tailstock locking plate below the tailstock you should find a nut. This adjusts the position of the tailstock locking lever. Try moving the tailstock to where it jams, then loosen this nut just enough that the tailstock slides freely. This will mean the tailstock locking lever will come up a bit further where the tailstock is already free, but should not cause any trouble.



    • #3
      I bought one of these (Chester DB10 G) a year ago, and I'm sorry to say that it was the worst heap of scrap iron I've ever known. I had exactly the same problem (one of very many...) on mine - the tailstock wouldn't get any closer to the chuck than about 12"-14" away. In my case it was due to big casting lumps on the underside between the bed that hadn't been removed.

      I rejected the lathe and they sent a replacement out, the 2nd one was just as bad but with problems in different areas. I rejected this one after a week and got a full refund on the money.

      I think it is Chesters quality control/build to a price as much as anything else. The DB10G is essentially an identical machine to the Lathemaster 9x30 that a few people over in the USA have, with a slightly shorter bed and a semi-quick change gearbox on it, but those on here who have the Lathemaster seem to be very happy with it, so it can be a reasonable machine with a bit more effort.

      The DB10G tailstock uses a nut to lock it rather than a lever, so following on from Francos suggestion I assume you've tried that and loosened it off a bit more? Or is the taper you're seeing horizontally between the bed rather than vertically on the height? That could be tricky to fix and keep the tailstock aligned on centre.

      I'm only about 20 miles away from you in Suffolk, so if you're really stuck I could pop over and give you a hand.



      • #4
        Hi Peter
        The gap is in the vertical direction ie if measured from the bed down it gets larger nearer the chuck!!
        As you say not very good QC, I wish I had waited and gone for a Myford at least you know what you are getting!! although a little expensive!!
        I have tools I don't know how to use!!


        • #5
          Originally posted by Peter Neill
          I think it is Chesters quality control/build to a price as much as anything else.

          I bought a 626 mill from Chester about two years ago,they don't have any quality control.They fitted a Newhall DRO to it and never covered the ways while they drilled and tapped for the fixings,delivered it with pyramids of cast iron dust still on the ways.There were also a lot of other problems,not the least that I couldn't even fit the belts to the motor as they'd fitted a 3 phase motor and none of the pulleys lined up.

          Sent it back for a refund,got fed up of waiting for promised phone calls that never happened.

          If Chester were the only suppliers of machine tools I'd take up train spotting instead.



          • #6
            tear it down

            If you are stuck with it, and really want to fix it:
            disassemble to the bare bed, invert it on a milling table, and flycut the underside through the full travel of the tailstock clamp.


            • #7
              That blows

              I really dont understand the mentality, why even bother building something in the first place if your not going to have the follow through ------- all the effort they put in and then they drop the ball,, i know exactly what your going through, i bought my jet Mill and verified with them that it was still being built in Taiwan, I seen two of them in colo. springs before i bought (thanks to Jerry Howell for sharing some of his time and letting me see his Mills --- very nice guy)
              So I order my Mill and it comes in with china stickers on it, i was furious, they gave me the run around for a month and a half, Swore up and down that they show its still taiwan, i have to send them proof of the stickers and such,, they still drag thier feet, I was very reasonable and wanted to be flexable so finnaly i told them to pick it up or find me a taiwan one or compensate me some money because im going to have to dissasemble the entire machine and go through it, they chose the latter and i fixed many of thing, here's the thing ---- now that i took care of all that stuff my mill is actually very impressive, my table is 36" long and has 2/10ths of deviation, The quill fit is good and the spindle bearings nice, Im impressed with this machine now that iv heli-coiled the table locks and other things and replaced a faulty run capacitor that burnt up first half our of run time, re-wired the motor because they didnt even have wire nuts on the connections - not only that but they didnt even bother twisting the wires together they were just placed together and then shoddily taped,,, removed all the sand from the knee bevel gears and fixed the adjustable lead screws that were butchered, most all of the real critical things were taken care of -- Nice castings, precision table and ways, nice bearings and quill fit - then they throw it together like crap, I dont get it... But we already know what a force they are, maybe we should all hope they never get a handle on follow though ----- if they do its going to get real ugly --- as many problems that iv had to deal with i will say this now that its squared away -- In all the ways that are critical my mill is by far the nicest thing iv ever seen out of china ---------- its just such a mixed bag of quality, some of it is unbelievable, then some looks as if they had 10 year olds do the finishing touches, im thankful that the lower quality area's were not something that was unfixable. Good luck, if they refuse to take it back you should demand some major compensation moneys...
              My only real victory over this is my mill was going to have to get ripped all apart anyways just for me to get in the basement --- so na-na-nana-na to jet, i realy hope i never have to deal with them again.


              • #8
                Thats why when you guys here me call my mill the china-hoe you now know why,,, she be a hoe but now she be a good hoe, still a hoe though... but a good one, but still a hoe...


                • #9
                  Thanks for the few words Boomer, unfortunately i've had the thing a year and just didnt get around to doing much with it, so my fault - too many things going on. As I said earlier I should have waited and got a Myford, in the last year i,ve seen several that were cheaper then my hoe but as usual one has to strike whilst the iron is hot (if I hadnt bought it her indoors would have spent the money)
                  I am now of the opinion that the only way fix this is to make a movable jig or fix a grinder to the carriage and grind the underside or make do!!

                  I have tools I don't know how to use!!


                  • #10
                    Its true Pete, but at least its just a clamping surface right, you can live with that and all you really need to do is get it close, hope the rest of the machine is acceptible --- it kinda does my heart good that somebody else out there calls thier machine a china-hoe,,, all my friends and brothers ask me on occasion "how the hoe doin?" and since i brought her around not a wimper of trouble and she be a tight hoe at that, so i have to reply "hoe doin real good"


                    • #11
                      Thanks for the advice, although its just a clamping surface its so annoying as you have to move the spanner further around to get more clearance when moving the tail stock. I'm not saying i'm getting lazy its just annoying!!!
                      I have tools I don't know how to use!!


                      • #12
                        PLEASE don't try to turn anything heavy between centers on this lathe. Pressure on the tailstock toward narrower or thinner part of the ways will cause the clamp to loosen and the workpeice to be released at speed. This often kills operators!!!
                        Don't use this junk. There are useable fair quality machines for about the same price available. I would theaten the seller with a product libility lawsuit of there is any quibble about a FULL (including ALL shipping costs) refund.
                        This thing is a killer.


                        • #13

                          getting back to your original problem.

                          Check to make sure you have a spring around the attaching bolt that will push the friction pad away from the bed when the bolt is loosened Sometimes the problem is a sloppy fit and a slight cocking will cause it to stick along the bed length. You could also taper the first quarter inch of the pad on each side so the edge does not dig in.


                          • #14
                            Hi all ,, Just got back on. I have decided to stick with my machines but am forced to use them for fun only and a little at a time. I read this post about the Chicom lathe.
                            Well you got me going. I want to add a little input about Smithy,,, STAY AWAY!!!! I had their 12-36 gap bed gear-head stand alone and it was junk!!!! I had so many problems I finally forced them to take it back. I just got my refund this week.

                            First the carriage feed would not engage at any speed lower than 600 rpms. Finally figured if I took all the play out of the handle it would engage better. This happened both x + y would do it. It was adjusted correctly for play but it was junk. They told me that all I Had to do was rip off the apron and all the carriage and I could then see what was wrong. I did not feel I should have to with a new lathe but was going to until the gearbox started leaking all the oil out in less than an hour. Cleaned all up and found it coming from the main shafts. They sent me seals. Ok so I took it apart and found the problem, the power feed shaft under the main shaft looked as if someone went ape on it with a ballpein and a chisel!! No wonder it tore the seal up. So changing the seal was not the fix, changing the shaft was and it meant taking all the shafts and gears out. Along with many other little things I had enough. Heck it was a new lathe that I paid 2900.00 for. I know its not alot but yeah it was alot. So they took it back. DO yourself a favor and stay away from Smithy. I still have their mill and the motor is all but trashed on it. I won't go into all the stuff I had to fix on it.

                            Sorry guys I should have posted this in another title but it goes good hear too.
                            Last edited by cybor462; 09-14-2006, 12:06 AM.
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