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Attaching chuck to spacer and 2 rotary tables.

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  • Attaching chuck to spacer and 2 rotary tables.

    I'm just full of questions these days, please bear with me...

    I have several chucks for my L00 spindle on the lathe. I would like to use them on my 6â€‌ Hartford Spacer and my 12â€‌ Troyke V/H rotab as well as my 8â€‌ Manex (whatever that is) Horiz rotab. They all have t-slot tables, each with different slot sizes. They all have center bores, though of different sizes, and none appear to have a taper.

    As mentioned in other threads, I have picked up some steel today and am thinking of turning an L00 taper, complete with key. This, I would like to mount on the various fixtures, but I have several questions.

    First off, I figure the adapter will have a bore in the back side. Probably 1â€‌ so that it can actually be mounted in my turret (uses 1â€‌ arbors) if needed (no idea why). The adapter would also have a groove for the retaining ring for the threaded collar.

    My first though is to leave the tables on and use the center bores as a register with the t-slots used to hold the adapter on the table. The adapter would have a lip which would be held in place by toe clamps. But that adds even more to already excessive vertical height. By the time I stack up scroll chuck, L00 adapter with lock collar, table, AND rotary body, things are getting rather tall even for a full sized Bridgeport (with no spacer). Taking the table off still leaves that tall L00 adapter, but not much I can do about that without buying a dedicated plain back chuck.

    What do you guys think about this? Should I just bide my time and find a cheap plane back chuck, then make a thin adapter for it using the same multi-mount approach? Maybe a cheap ChiCom ebay 8â€‌ scroll chuck and call it done?
    Russ
    Master Floor Sweeper

  • #2
    BD

    This may be just an eccentricity of my own, but seems to me that the object of the rotary xxx is to give a tool a controlled circular access to part.

    Since this usually means the part needs to true to some chosen axis,
    1. I would find the simplist way to set the part on said axis.
    2. This can require attention to multiple degrees of freedom.

    Therefore I would strip the chuck to the basic, and find a way to shift and clamp it in a simple way so that the part will indicate true to the rotary xxx bearings, without too much RIG a Marole.

    This will also keep the height and weight to the minimum that will yeild the best chance for you to fit the device into whereever you need to put it.

    Hth Ag

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    • #3
      Seems to me that the only way to do what you describe is buy a 3 plain back chucks with back plate (or 1 with 3 back plates, but more fiddling), remove the tables, and turn back plates to fit fixture register. That's the ideal, but gets rather expensive, and I really don't have a huge need for any of them, though it'll surely come up from time to time. And while the adapter introduces potential for error (stack up, trash, etc.) it does allow reuse of existing chucks and assembly in place (so tables can be mounted, then chucks installed) for relatively little effort and almost no expense.

      Unless I'm missing something, it should be possible to use the center bore(s), which is supposedly true to rotation, along with an accurately machined adapter, to achieve a fairly repeatable and accurate setup. It won't be a "half thou." capable setup, but I think accurate enough for me.

      So I guess this comes down to 2 questions.

      1) Am I just barking up the wrong tree and this is a waste of effort?

      2) Is there a better, more accurate way?
      Russ
      Master Floor Sweeper

      Comment


      • #4
        Buy the cheap chuck,turn an adaptor plate and bolt it down.Once you get a chuck mounted on a rotary table,it will most likely stay there for a long time.

        The other advantage of the cheap chuck ismif you can find one with face mounting holes,you can index and drill your own
        I just need one more tool,just one!

        Comment


        • #5
          BD,
          Too much hight to be rigid enough and on the H/V table too much overhang when horizontal for the bearings.

          Go for a cheap chuck, machine a backplate to suit with a register pin to fit the smallest hole in the tables.
          Then make two sleeves to take this pin size up to the other two larger sizes.
          That will get the chuck located to within a thou when you swap over.

          .
          .

          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



          Comment


          • #6
            If you're not using for production, how 'bout a sorta 4 jaw setup based on the Tslots of the RT? Just a wild idea, but shouldn't be too hard to arrange. Jaws sliding in the T slots, bolts and some kinda locked-in nut.
            Rgds, Lin
            Just got my head together
            now my body's falling apart

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            • #7
              If you can afford it, I would get two cheap chucks. One to go permanently on the spacer (Presume that's what we in the UK would call an indexer), set it up so you don't lose any of the available through bore. Then follow John's suggestion for one chuck to swap between the two RT's.
              I find my indexer gets used a lot, almost never without the chuck, & often for bar which needs to pass into/through the body.

              Tim

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              • #8
                Ok, cheap chuck it is then. Things never work out the easy/cheap way in this "hobby" (obsession) do they? <sigh> I think I'll look into a 4 used jaw since they front mount and can sometimes be had cheaply. I think the t-slot vise as chuck jaw also has merit for general use.
                Russ
                Master Floor Sweeper

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